Fangio

3 hours ago, Rowsley17D said:

 

The nut/bush wider brim is to the outside so that it holds the rod in place The coupling rods need the big ends opening out so the the shoulder of the nut goes through them. There's not a lot of metal left on some design of rod big ends so be careful. The rod thickness has to be less than the shoulder length otherwise when you tighten it up everything binds. It's designed so that the rod rotates around the bearing rather than around the crank pin. I make the holes in the rods on the motor driven wheel more or less exact size and open out the rod holes for the other wheels as bit at a time with a 5-sided brooch until there's no binding. That's the theory anyway.

 

In this photo from above

 

The furthest wheel has the usual Markits crank pin with a thick washer soldered on. The nearest wheel has a deluxe crank pin. You can see the shoulder holding the rod in place. The pin has yet to be trimmed to length though.

Many thanks for that, much appreciated!

Chris

On 12/02/2021 at 19:16, Rowsley17D said:

The outside cranks arrived today, so the coupling rods were made up. The big ends were not wide enough to take the Markits deluxe crankpin nuts, so they were drilled just to go over the screw threads of the crankpins. Without any opening up of the holes in the rods there was no binding from the off which I was very pleased about.

 

 

Next to fit the motor and try it under power, then I'll remove the wheels and paint the chassis so I can do the brakes.

Now then,

I saw you're from N Yorkshire too, so figured you'd be well suited to provide some advice please!

First time builder, using Markits deluxe crankpins.  This is probably a daft question but: do the crankpin nuts/bushes go on with the wider 'brim' to the inside or outside?   Also, do the coupling rods run on the threaded crankpin itself, or do they need to be opened out to fit over the crankpin nut/bush?

thanks muchly, appreciate your wisdom here!

Chris

On 23/01/2021 at 17:43, Brian D said:

 

As you can see at the start of this thread, I used a copy of a scale drawing (that was published in the Railway Modeller) to trial where the motor/gearbox might go.  I suggest you do the same.  If you haven't got the RM article, PM me.

 

Good luck.

 

Regards,

Brian.

Thanks Brian,

Have opted for a High Level RR+ (probably a 40:1?) and a coreless motor to fit inside.  That should do the job.

cheers

chris

Hi Brian

Love your work on this - gives me hope!!

Just about to start on my DJH D20, working out where to put the motor gearbox combo - I bought mine off the auction platform, came with the D13 motor and Romford gears.  I'm still trying to work out if I can make the D13 fit!

cheers

CB 

Hi Malcolm,

The valve gear is certainly a tad daunting!  Keep putting it off...

I have been focussing on the Comet chassis for the Jinty of late: now have wheels and motor, and gearbox is on order.  Will put those together, then move onto motorising the chassis for the K3.   

However, I have been distracted with re-wheeling a D11 kit my dad made in the early '70s.  Managed to refit the original gearwheel to a new scalelink 9/32 knurled axle, and then fitted 4 markits wheels to that and a  standard 1/8th axle (after fitting bearings).  Original crank pins were a natural fit.  Seems to run ok, but does need running in.  Doubt it has run in anger since the early 80's!

cheers

cb

Hi all

Thanks Malcolm.

The chassis is now together and does fit the body quite well.  A little fettling of frame length has improved the fit.  As bought, the old Wills body kit included neither backhead nor cab floor; once these were sourced from those lovely gents at SEF, fitting the chassis at the cab end became a simpler process.

Next step is to source motor/gearbox combo, which will be coming from hi-level kits.  Most likely a mashima 1428 plus hi-flier.

Have not started the motion yet....  need another bravery pill (plus soldering practice) before I tackle that.

In the meantime have been distracted with building a Comet chassis for my old Hornby Jinty, which was a v wobbly runner.

These are my first and second kits respectively -  hope to post some photos in the fullness of time.

cheers all

Chris

10 hours ago, Worsdell forever said:

RSB Models (assuming it's the same one) was a model shop in Middlesbrough, they closed coming on 30 years ago so you won't find much about them. 

Thanks Paul.

Love the work on Rosedale by the way.  Beautiful part of the world, spent plenty of time walking on the top when I was little.  I grew up in Sinnington.

Although I am now living down under (Melbourne) I plan to build an NER layout based on Sinnington and the Gilling & Pickering line.

cheers

Chris

On 01/03/2019 at 21:31, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Do you have a dimensioned drawing of the K3 to refer to? (If not that from Isinglass will be good.)

 

It is necessary to check that the chassis wheelbase is correct, and then with the boiler test assembled on the footplate where the driving wheel axle centres will be positioned relative to the footplate (both horizontally and vertically) with boiler centreline at scale height above rail top, to determine what diameter wheels can be fitted. It's typically all a bit tight vertically with a whitemetal cast body, because the thickness of the footplate is much greater than the sheet metalwork of the prototype, and if this is an OO or EM build, the flanges too are well overscale. What with the boiler being large diameter, it needs to be positioned at scale height for the model to look well. That may require some reduction from scale driving wheel diameter to be chosen. (To give an idea, the RTR model has a cast metal footplate with the tyre diameter at 21.4mm, and arches in the footplate underside above the wheel tops to clear the flanges.)

 

If all the above is well, then look at the cylinder positioning provided on the frame kit, to ensure that the cylinders are correctly positioned under the footplate drop. A little position adjustment can be helpful, as the pony truck wheels have to clear the front of the cylinders when they swing out for curves, worth checking on your smallest radius layout curve before committing to the cylinder position.

 

These were really handsome brutes, and with a whitemetal body will have all the traction required. I would suggest between 30 and 40:1 gears for speed depending on motor rpm: they were sent out on passenger turns requiring 75mph to the end of their time in service.

G'day

thanks for your post, really helpful. 

I think you've hit t'nail on t'head with the wheel diameter - suspect the rearmost of the driving wheels may foul the footplate/cab unless I'm careful.

( quick question:  when you write 21.4mm wheel diameter, is that from flange to flange, or just around the barrel?  Cheers)

I was thinking of 40:1, and I reckon the High level Hi-Flier with a 1428 will fit and will be ideal.  Have been in touch with the guys at High Level, they are proving very helpful - same with Dave at Roxey Mouldings.   

I plan to finish the k3 in LNER colours, for the late '30's NE region.   I will be running OO gauge, on Code 100 track.  R3 curves mainly, the occasional R2.  

Talking of pony truck - where would I find one of those?  nothing in the kit.....

thanks

Chris

On 01/03/2019 at 20:46, hayfield said:

I have no idea about the quality of the chassis kit, but I think before you attempt building this kit, if you can give us some idea of your modelling capabilities it may assist those able to give the replies you are after

 

 Do you want/require a compensated chassis ?

 

What experience of chassis building have you?

Hi John

thanks the post - in answer to your questions:

• plenty of years experience on plastic/resin/mixed media 1/32 kits, including kit bashing, air-brush etc.   However, just taken the leap and started practicing soldering on 2nd hand whitemetal and brass wagon kits.  (First whitemetal kit went together like a charm... until I discovered it was a broad gauge wagon kit )
• No, no compensation for the chassis.  Rigid will do, to run around R3 curves on code 100 track
• No experience of chassis building - mainly been sticking to servicing old LNER Triang/Hornby stock

cheers

Chris

On 01/03/2019 at 20:44, 30368 said:

Hi Chris,

 

I don't profess to be an expert in this field but I have built a few locos. I know nothing about the RSB Models frame kit I'm afraid. I have, like you, purchased a very old Wills U/N Maunsell Mogul bodyline kit and I chose to buy the SE Finecast chassis kit which is really first class and includes all the parts required to build a really good prototypical chassis (excludes wheels, motor, gearbox). Does the RSB chassis include valvegear/brake frets etc.?

 

So, for what it is worth, I would purchase the SE Finecast chassis kit for the K3 which is about £30. Good luck and really enjoy building the K3 which were very strong locomotives.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Hi Richard

thanks for your response - yes, there was a full set of Nu-cast motion that went with the package.  Not tackled that yet, but will give it a bash

I am just waiting on a tapered reamer to arrive and then I will tackle the chassis.  If that does not go together fair and true, I will opt for the SEF version.  The guys there have been very helpful with advice so far.

cheers

Chris

PS - nice work on that SR example!  I have a Schools class kit that my dad put together in the '70s on a Triang chassis that I will attempt to rewheel in coming months.....

Morning gurus

Long time browser, first time poster to the community ... and relative newbie to loco kitbuilding.

I am building a Wills Finecast LNER K3 I picked up on the auction platform.  The castings are in pretty good nick, all things considered.  As part of the package a chassis was provided in the form of an RSB Models frames kit.  I can't find any info on this manufacturer, nor the frames kit itself. 

Before I shell out my hard-earned on motor/gearbox/wheels etc - can anyone advise if the chassis/frames are any good?  Any tips or inside info?  

The instructions clearly spell out how to fix said chassis to the Wills body, so I have hope!

thanks

Chris