DoctorP
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Posts posted by DoctorP
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go to scalescenes website they supply downloadable buildings which can be printed
Got it...will do, thanks. DoctorP
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If you want to plan clearances and layout possibilities for Peco points/turnouts, its possible to download full-sized plans for a range of gauges/track codes from the Peco website.
https://www.peco-uk.com/page.asp?id=pointplans
Print them out and lay them on your baseboard to see what is possible at 1:1.
Thanks, my friend...I printed out copies of all the turnouts, etc and plan on laying them out on my track plan tomorrow to get an exact measurement on what I need in my Faringdon layout. DoctorP
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I cannot get your track layout plan up but in many ways Faringdon is a very good basis for a GW terminus layout, my father in law modelled Faringdon in the garden and it was good fun. The lack of a kick back siding makes shunting a pleasure instead of a mental challenge. The real Faringdon had a very little room between the loop points and the buffer stops, not long enough for "New large Locomotives," introduced around 1900 to be able to run round.
Obviously the larger streamline points you have space for the better. Keep the run round loop as long as possible. I would try to keep the "6ft" way down to around 45mm from the standard Peco 50mm as this makes the layout look bigger / longer.
Thanks, Dave, I appreciate your wisdom and help. I take all the advice I can get believe me...knowing nothing means one is wide open to listening to those who know much. DoctorP
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I'm on the same side of the pond as you up in Massachusetts. There is a "local" club, "The British Railway Modellers of North America" http://brmna.org. I also model Swiss and I'm a member of the European Train Enthusiasts ete.org. There are also some Brits in that club too.
For DCC I use the ROCO z21 as I like the fact that you can add a photo of each engine and operate it from a phone or tablet. I also find that having pictograms of each function is easier than trying to remember which F function does what. I use a ROCO multimaus at shows which is fine as I usually don't have the sound on as it is either inaudible or annoying. There are a number of new systems available that use tablets or have their own controller (ESU) which have the ability to use icons instead of just buttons. If you are happy with using an laptop and are planning a "one engine in steam" layout you can build a DCC system using Chinese Arduino parts for about $20! Not exactly user friendly but certainly cheap! Your best bet is to go to a show or dealer and try some hands-on controlling a sound equipped loco - then you can see if you are happy with buttons or don't mind splashing out a bit more to have a more visual system.
With UK sound chips most of them come pre-loaded; if they are ESU based you can write our own with the ESU LokProgrammer but most of the UK files are proprietary so cost about L15 plus the chip. ZIMO also do a lot of UK sound. I power lights from a separate 16V AC supply and reduce / rectify the voltage with some components I get direct from China which cost a couple of $$ - I have also used the DCC output from the track on my show layout.
I recently sold my UK layout with code 100 PECO track - I'm likely to replace it with either code 83 or 75 when I get around to the next layout because it does look better IMHO.
Hope that helps a bit......
Thanks for your reply...yep, helps a lot. I'm a member of BRMNA as well but there doesn't seem to be much activity on that site or I would use it more. I've tried posting but can't get much of a response...Mr. Venable is very good to reply however and I appreciate his help. John Kendall has been a big, big help on this site and I stand in his debt for what he has taught me so far. There is no club close to where I live...being from Mass. I'm not sure how familiar you are with Central Appalachia, but it's not likely that I'll find anybody closer than Lexington that is very interested in model railroading. There is a club at Lexington however but we are about 100 miles away so...I appreciate the help. DoctorP
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Hi,
With regards to the angles of the points / turnouts, you might want to have a look at the AnyRail software. It allows you to draw out your plan using libraries of commercial track (including Peco) and it's a great way of visualising how the track will fit. You can even print out in 1:1 scale so you can try it out with trains without having to buy or lay track. That way, you can be sure that you are going to end up with a layout you are happy with, that offers the sort of features that you want.
There are a load of DCC systems and everyone will have different opinions. I personally use the Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance2 sytem, which I think is the UK branding of a similar system sold by MRC in the USA. The NCE powercab is also a popular option - the power output is IIRC slightly lower but should suffice if you are planning to run only a couple of trains at a time.
Some may comment on the use of Code 100 track versus Code 75. Unless you are running stock manufactured quite some time ago, the wheel tolerances may well be fine with Code 75, with opinion being that it looks better. From personal experience, I use Code 100 but that is because I have a whole load of old stock, such as Lima Mk3 and Mk1 coaches manufactured 30-35 years ago.
Best of luck with your new venture!
Thanks so much for this valuable and considerate information. DoctorP
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Ladies and Gentlemen,
Just a very brief contextual introduction: I am new to the hobby and this is my first layout. I have sought and found advice on this forum already and am now turning to you again for even more advice. After reading John Armstrong's Track Planning for Realistic Operation (3rd ed), Layout Design by Iain Rice, and Basic DCC Wiring for Your Model Railroad by Mike Polsgrove, I am ready to order and lay track for my layout. With advice from a member of this forum, I am going to use a standard track layout model called the Faringdon https://imgur.com/a/zDXo5. It fits my benchwork perfectly and offers me a good introductory level of modelling.with options for future expansion. I wil be using Peco 100 flextrack for my layout. My questions at this important juncture are these:
1. How do I figure proper angles for turnouts...excuse me, I am from the US..."points."? Can I get this information from the Peco turnout template section at https://www.peco-uk.com/page.asp?id=pointplans? If so, what sort of information do I need to "feed into" the section?
2. What DCC brand/system should I choose. Here are some criteria to consider: a) this will be a one person layout with no visitors or other operators of any sort, b) I will be running only 1, perhaps 2, trains at the most c) simplicity is much preferred over complexity d) I want to add lights and sound to my entire layout d) cost must be modest. I would appreciate any and all advice in making these very important decisions since I have absolutely no prior experience with any of this. Thank you very much for your time and consideration. DoctorP (David Profitt - Kentucky USA)
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For the track, I think your best bet is to contact Steve at Model Railway Imports ( http://www.modelrailwayimports.com/suppliers.php ) He has Peco flex track in both code 100 and 75 (your choice). This comes separately or in boxes of 25 yds. Don't forget to buy metal and plastic rail joiners (fishplates). You will need turnouts (or most people call them points which isn't right) but I think before making that significant investment you should firm up your ideas of a layout plan. I like Electrofrog turnouts. Insulfrog are easier to wire but locos can stall on the dead part.
To attach wires you will need to solder. I use 22 gauge stranded wire. Pick a convention for wire colour, I use black and green. Cored 60/40 solder (with lead!) is good. For someone who restores tractors soldering shouldn't be difficult.
One other thing occurs to me and that is wiring the track. Are your boards firmly fixed down? I ask because wiring while lying on your back is a terrible way to spend your day. I like to set my boards up in a Workmate and wire from a comfortable position.
For the WS foam, there are any number of mail order model railroad stores in the US so I suggest you look these up. Find one with a large range of stock so you can get your generic stuff there. The place I linked to in post 59 might be a good place to start.
John
Green board is screwed down with drywall screws...just have to back them out to make wiring easier. and then re-attach screws, mud them in, sand and I've got a flat surface. No problem there.. I'll check out post 59 for ordering foam underlayment. I'll contact Steve today on the track...which one? 100 or 75? You said earlier 75 is preferable but someone else said 100 is better for some reason I can't remember. Keep in mind, ease of working with the track may trump prototype at my level of experience. I'll remember the fishplates. Anything else? Doc
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Doc, many people, myself included, have used cork sheet as a covering. Hardware stores should have rolls in 4 or 5mm thicknesses. Cork is pretty expensive too. Use Conatct Cement to stick it down. This is best done with two or more pairs of hands. In my case I wasn't going to do anything but my friend insisted on applying shower stall waterproof membrane since he had some left over from his renovation. Since your baords are water proof you don't really need anything.
I mentioned earlier that I will use WS Foam Roadbed and you indicated that you had beed reading up on that. It comes in pre chamfered strips and sheets. It's not that expensive. This is my recommendation. If you use a flexible glue like Tacky Glue (Walmart) you will redice the drumming sound from your trains.
I don't recommend grass mats. WS grass flock gives a nice effect:
This was taken 12 years ago on my first exhibition layout. Stone shed is a Wills plastic kit, large barn is Superquik. Stone walls are Hornby Skaledale. The grass is WS flock. It comes in various shades so blending these is quite effective.
Painting in earth tones is a good idea, however, the whole surface should end up covered in track, buildings or scenery.
John
I'll make a trip to the hardware store in a bit and hopefully they will have the corksheeting. If so, I'll pick up enough to cover the green board. I'll also pick up some glue. I plan on ordering track later today so tell me what I should get and where and that's what i will do...I'll also order some Woodlands foam underlayment as well. Let me know what to order and where. Doc
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I need to think about the best basic covering for my bench. Should I overlay the bench with 1" foam board insulation or merely paint the green board that forms the "floor" of my bench? Woodland Scenics has grass "mats" in 4 x 8 sheets but the cost is going to be roughly $100 just for the grass mats alone. Still, if I need to go that route I can. I was hoping to save a bit by painting the "floor" with oil base, earth tones paints from the hardware store. Two questions here...the necessity of foam board overlay and the idea of grass mats vs painting. DoctorP
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How can you say that Doc? You haven't done anything yet - it's a blank canvas.
John
I have some great intentions and a plan is taking shape in my mind. The more I learn, the clearer that plan becomes. I have a long way to go, but I will go as far as I can as knowledge and ability allows...and as long as there are advisors like you and Emma and others who will take the time to help. Doc
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I've been at mine for over a year, things are taking shape but the dream does seem to be far off.
John
The difference is, John, that I've seen yours and it is a work of art while mine is...well, lets say, a bit less than a work of art. DoctoP
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Agree with Andy, very expensive. When I've ordered books from the UK, I have requested surface which is much cheaper but takes ages. I pre-ordered an HMRS book: 5' Gauge Wagons and postage was just about as much as the book itself -- in that case I cancelled.
Yes, that is why I was recommending a train set, an all in one package that you can run immediately. I'm not advocating using the track in the set for the main layout, but you can have a play. It will take some time to get your dream layout up and running.
John
Seems a far off dream right now... DoctorP
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Sadly international shipping is very expensive for heavy items like books and magazines. I only live next door to the UK and am hit with heavy shipping charges - which on checking the postage stamp are entirely reasonable from the sellers' perspective.
Well...the only UK close to me is the University of Kentucky so... Thanks Andy
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Well the Abe Books price is $15 each plus postage which is almost as much (books are heavy things).
John
John, Surely shipping can't be that much! I'm in an all day meeting today...got a short break and decided to check in...I'm gathering a growing list of books, magazines, videos, etc that is going to keep my quite busy for some time. I'm also going back and making notes from all your previous emails, following up when necessary or making note of points to be studied further. I've got some reading material on order and am searching back through some back issues of Model Railroading magazine. I am finding that knowing the history of the region i hope to model and knowing the history of the GWR and the Gloucestershire - Warwickshire historic restoration are critical elements in any worthwhile layout. I can see that more and more. Of course the temptation to "get something rolling" is very great and I will probably end up purchasing a period and region specific steam locomotive and some rolling stock just to look at if nothing else...something to give me a little encouragement along the way and to get me more into the hobby as it were. Well...it's about time to get back to work...I'll check in sometime later. We have guests coming over to the house tonight so it may be late or it may even be tomorrow, but I'll be logging on soon. Many thanks for all you have done to help and guide me along the path. DoctorP
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It's a start. I don't know the author.
Check this out: https://www.abebooks.com/9781874103134/Great-Western-Branch-Line-Modelling-1874103135/plp Pts 2 and 3.
I found a copy of Pt 3 on Amazon for over $200, LMAO.
John
Going to have to sell a tractor first! DoctorP
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BRM is about $160 US! Lordy! DoctorP
Found "Modellers' Guide to the GWR". ordered it (1990 Booth). Could not find either of the 3 you mention on Amazon, but I did find this one so i picked it up...should ship in a couple of weeks. DoctorP
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Model Railroad Hobbyist: http://mrhpub.com/2018-03-mar/online/ Happy reading. Not British but some awesome modelling.
NA = North America
John
BRM is about $160 US! Lordy! DoctorP
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I am very impressed with MRH, it is probably the best railroad magazine for NA there is and its free! I haven't read it in a while although I do have a sub.
John
MRH?????????? NA??????????
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Emmas point is a good one but yours is equally valid. There has to be balance. If we spend all of our time researching, we may lose interest. Going out and buying models at random is also a mistake. You should get period and location correct models (I gave some hints above).
What about research though? You mention Cotswolds as a location but do you have information on the stations around that area? There are books galore on railways so you might want to have a look for some. Sadly most of the best books I know of are out of print so it does come down to searching Amazon and the like. You can usually find them but some are at a ridiculous price.
One of the best GWR branchline themed book sets I can think of is the 3 volume set by Stephen Williams:
https://britishrailwaybooks.co.uk/books/ISBN/0906867959.php
https://britishrailwaybooks.co.uk/books/ISBN/0906867983.php
https://britishrailwaybooks.co.uk/books/ISBN/1874103135.html
Vol 2 is available but the others are out of print. Vol 3 is very valuable because it documents Stephens build of his layout.
Another thing you might want to see about is getting modelling magazines. BRM (the owners of this forum), Model Rail, Hornby and Railway Modeller are the four main ones. They all do subscriptions and electronic versions (if that floats your boat, it doesn't mine). Alternatively if you visit your local bookseller they may already stock some of these. If they don't and you ask nicely they may agree to get the magazine sfor you.
I try to mete out information because there is so much to learn that your brain can explode.
John
Amen to the exploding brain issue. I haven't been able to do anything with trains since I got home.I had to build some heavy duty ramps so that my wife and I had to unload a John Deere 60 tractor off the truck. We got it unloaded and set up ready to tear down the motor for a re-build. This will be my last summer restoring vintage tractors because of my health (arthritis, knee replacement, etc) and I've got 3 waiting to be resurrected. After that, 2 will be sold and I'll keep one but more importantly, i'll be able to give my full attention to trains. Emma is very perceptive. i confess to being a very driven, type A personality that likes to work hard and see results so i usually work too hard at whatever I do and I'm sure I'll be the same with the trains but I'm going to try to chill a bit because as i have already seen, this is a hobby that lasts a lifetime and one never fully completes anything but merely keeps on adding and improving along the way. That's why I felt that getting started by laying track on my existing benchwork is the best idea. That way, I'll get to learn by doing and any changes i make will go toward the adding and improvement process. You have given me some of the best information I have received to date today and yesterday and I need to ponder on your suggestions and the avenues you have opened for reading, study, purchasing, and laying track...all good! As my students like to say, "you're the bomb!" DoctorP
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When you say foam board am I right in thinking it is blue insulation? Your use of green board is not usual but I can't see anything wrong with it, being water resistant is a plus. I've always used plywood. I would glue the roadbed to that and not bother with any intermediate covering, but perhaps you have a reason that I'm not aware of. You can get pre chamfered cork roadbed:
https://www.hobbylinc.com/midwest-cork-roadbed-3-25-model-train-track-roadbed-ho-scale-3013
(I was going to recommend Atlas but their website is horrible)
Woodland Scenics do a broad range of modelling products that you ought to be able to get mail order from a US outlet.
You'll be wanting ballast at some point.
You will want to seek out generic US products that are not country specific so try to find an online store you like.
John
Yep...I'm so glad you gave me this good advice. I will do just that and use the foam board to build topographical elements on the greenboard and have already researched the Woodland foam track underlayment...things are beginning to come together quite nicely. DoctorP
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Doctor P, forgive me if I'm wrong, but you seem to be rushing headlong into throwing 'something' together.
More haste less speed is a useful motto here. I would research what you are interested in and consider carefully how to achieve it. I agree 'playing trains' can be fun - but it can also get expensive!
Emma
Emma, I appreciate your concern and I am aware of a tendency I have to want to do things quickly and see results. I'm having to balance that against the desire to get at least something "on track" (pun intended) even if it is only something that will need re-doing down the line. I will be careful to ask for and heed advice along the way and to use a little common sense to help guide me on my path but this is a very promising hobby and one I hope to be involved with for years to come. DoctorP
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Well glad you got your forum done. So where is America going then? I watch way too much CNN so I have an idea.
What exactly do you plan to use the foam board for? I would use it (and will) to create landscape. For roadbed, cork sheet is commonly used and Lowes should have that. I am using Woodland Scenics foam roadbed for my layout (having used cork before now) and Tacky Glue to stick it down.
Have fun shopping.
John
I am so glad you asked this question since it was my plan to purchase foam board tomorrow and glue it to my benchwork top and then place everything either on or in the foam board including track, etc. Right now my bench is covered in a very hard sort of sheet rock called green board. Green board is specially designed for use around tubs, showers, bathrooms and any situation where moisture is a problem. it is also much heavier and more durable than sheet rock while being easily cut/trimmed/altered by either a utility knife or a jig saw. I had planned to glue the foam board to that and then move forward from there. I am extremely interested in knowing if that is a good plan or if I should consider another...one you seem to refer to above. I hope you can let me know since I plan to pick up the foam board either on the way home from work today or tomorrow at the latest. As always, thanks so much for your timely advice. DoctorP
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Glad to hear you've contacted Steve. You will get good service.
A transitional period is a good idea. You can run GWR, really early BRITISH RAILWAYS or early crest BR locos. No modernisation yet so the 1930s infrastructure would still be there.
My idea of a Cotswold setting is a sleepy bucolic backwater. A small station building, small goods shed, maybe a cattle dock and perhaps some coal drops for a local domestic coal merchant.
Traffic wouldn't be heavy so you could run an Autotrailer with a 14XX/48XX 0-4-2T loco. There might be a couple of goods trains per day pulled by a ubiquitous Pannier 0-6-0T and a Dean goods 0-6-0 tender engine.
For buildings, as you are starting out, I can recommend SuperQuik card building kits (http://www.superquick.co.uk/) or Metcalfe ( https://www.metcalfemodels.com/ ) These are pretty easy to put together using PVA. Later on you can replace these with more sophisticated buildings. I cut my teeth on these before moving to Scalescenes (https://scalescenes.com/)* and scratch.
*Scalescenes are downloadable PDF files that you print and mount on card. Quite a bit more involved than the others.
Let me know your thoughts on a track plan. Here's a couple of tasters:
The station building is a laser cut model of Tetbury. I made the platform shed from scratch. The signal box is a Ratio kit.
Engine shed is based on Tetbury too. Coal staithes were made from scratch. Water crane is Mikes Models (available from http://www.holtmodelrailways.co.uk/index.htm).
Goods shed was made from scratch by a friend. Crane is Mikes Models. There's a cattle dock behind the shed.
A little vignette of a coal merchant operation.
I loved operating this model but I resigned from the club to get on with my own thing. Track is code 75 and points are hand made on copperclad strip.
John
This is food for thought for the entire weekend! John, I really appreciate the time and trouble you are taking with a novice like myself who doesn't know one end from the other. I just presented a philosophic forum at the college yesterday that had stressed me out quite a bit. I present one each semester and yesterday's topic was "America: Boom or Bust? Is America Going to Hell in a Handbasket?" and we had a panel of 8 faculty and budding philosophy students who discussed a variety of topics covering economics, ethics/civility, the environment, politics, and more. I had been planning it for 3 months and yesterday was the day. It went well with an auditorium full of students, faculty, the Dean of Humanities (my boss) and the President of the College, Dr. Zylka. I feel llke the weight of the world has been lifted off me today so I should be a be able to give more thought and planning to my layout. i hope to stop by Lowe's Home Improvement Store on the way home from work today to pick up some extruded foam board to overlay my bench and move forward from there. I plan on contacting Steve today if I can look back and find the web address he sent me and I will discuss all the possibilities you have mentioned here with him as to availability, prices, etc. Again, thanks so much for the help and I hope you do not grow weary of shepherding someone as ignorant as myself. Blessings, DoctorP
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Yep, looks
Looks good. However, I was thinking more of a shunting set. A big engine and 3 coaches is going to look out of place on a 4 x 8 layout. Besides, it is a LNER train. I would suggest this:
GWR Pannier tank, shunters truck and brake. Have a look at wagons too. PO wagons are very attractive with various traders names. You're not limited to GWR branded wagons and vans as foreign vehicles were common across the network. The main rule is that GWR locos hauled trains would have GWR brake vans (this goes for other companies too). It's only a circle of track but you can add to it.
By the way, I don't think we've discussed era. I mentioned grouping before, a government mandated rationalisation of the hundreds of railway companies before 1923. These were reduced to the "Big Four" in 1923, Great Western, London Midland and Scottish, Southern and London & Northeastern. The mandate was in the interests of national security because things got pretty chaotic during the Great War.
After WW2, the Labour Govt nationalised a lot of British industry including coal and railways. Thus was born British Railways in 1948. This lasted until the early 90s when railways were privatised again.
The set I recommended is for the grouping era.
You need to figure out when you want to set your railway. The loco, wagon and coach branding will be different after 1948, although it took time to repaint and letter everything.
John
Yep, looks good. I'll have to contact them to see exactly what comes with a :"set" (if it does indeed come in a set). I plan on buying some additional track and build part of my ultimate layout now and then add to it as time goes on. I also need to contact a retail outlet in Canada that contacted me yesterday to see if he offers this item His name is Steve and the shipping would be cheaper coming from Canada than Britaiin. And, yes, I had done some background homework of the British rail system and did know about the shifts from many small lines to 4 larger ones and then the ultimate government takeover in 1948. I hope to model a late 1940's - mid 1950's era which would bridge the gap between the middle and ultimate era. DoctorP
Breakthrough question
in Modelling Questions, Help and Tips
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I'm now creating my first OO scale layout, modeling a small village in the Cotswolds. I've been using card stock building/structure kits from Metcalfe and they are good, but fall a bit short of the level of realism I want to reflect. This morning, I was scanning Youtube and ran across exactly what I hope to achieve on a very short video from British Pathe on using human hair for thatching material. I have listed the Youtube address for the video in hopes that somebody might view it and give me some good advice about how I can create structures along the lines this modeler has. The Youtube address is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeWOzMEHCpc I hope someone can help. The layout I am creating now is a "practice" layout. We will be moving next summer and this layout will have to be torn down and another built in our new residence. With all due respect to Metcalfe, I want to be more realistic and hope to learn something from some of you on this site that will help me with creating a more realistic end product. Thank you. DoctorP