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Fendt939

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Posts posted by Fendt939

  1. You lose all the detail. I really wouldn’t.

     

    And yes, ND114a:

     

    ND114a-LN02_3323642_Qty1_1.jpg

     

    They’re not particularly rare. Sell the LM one (they’re probably the most common), and buy the one you want.

    I'm still baffled as to how I haven't come across it! Fair point that's probably the best option, I'll keep my eyes peeled on Ebay for one! Thank You All For Your Help :)

  2. You’d still lose the detail, which would be why I’d avoid vinyls, not because it would be hard to get them to adhere to the surface.

     

    I’d still just buy the proper thing. There have been at least 6 on eBay in the last couple of months from a very quick look.

    My layout is viewed from quite a distance so loosing some detail wouldn't be to bad.. Also I have a London Midland 153 so logically I might as well convert that!

  3. If the layout is being dismantled/erected, then it's highly likely power is off, so shorting is not an issue.

    I've seen RCA speaker plugs used to good effect for low current two pole applications.

    RCA's are definitely a option but is there much difference between them and Jack Plugs?

     

    Also sorry for my total lack of electrical knowledge I'm just genuinely useless at it!

     

    Cheers!

  4. Jack plugs are best avoided because they short when you plug them in and out, and tend not to be the most reliable connection.

     

    You have had a few suggestions, but you might like to consider 'D' connectors given that you are going to be doing quite a lot of plugging in and out - and an hour or so spent soldering up the 'D' plugs will almost certainly be repaid in not having to do rework to repair or replace other types of connector not really suited to frequent connection and disconnection.

     

    'D' connectors are really quite cheap, and come in useful sizes of 9, 15, 25, 35, and 50 ways, and can be chassis mounted (to the baseboard) as well as cable mounted (with nice tough metal shells and excellent cable strain relief).

    Any power would be turned off when dismantling and erecting the boards...so shorting out wouldn't be a issue..I have a friend who uses jack plugs and has never had any issues with them. Onto D plugs they seem highly complicated and when you have the soldering skills of a 2 year old it definitely won't end well. Will do some research into them but more than likely won't use them due to my soldering skills.

     

    Thanks!

    Matthew

  5. Okay, thank you all for the reply ... definitely a 1000 different options. The no soldering option sounds good as I'm well...not the best at soldering to put it nicely!

     

    Definitely checking out Chadwick TMDs video, I've fallen behind on his channel.

     

    Thanks once again!

     

    P.s if anyone has a link for male and female connecting blocks that would be really helpfull any website will do...

  6. Cheers bud, that pretty much solves it, there's only 3 tracks going across the joint...the current shouldn't be a issue as it's only a 6ft long layout... connecting and disconnecting will be rather regular 2-3 times a week. I still stick with the jack plugs.

    My main concern was if the jack plugs can take the volts I was pretty sure they could but always better safe than sorry.

     

    Thanks again!

    Matthew

  7. Hi all, I'm starting a new N gauge model railway and unlike previous layouts I'll need this one to be able to split in half and be stored in separate locations. Now the trouble I'm facing is how do I transfer the track power across from board-board, my idea is use 'jack plugs' by using the male and female connections I can easily solder the ends of the wires to each line of track then just plug it in "Simples" so he says. My doubt is how many volts can these things take? Or are there any better alternatives out there? I don't have a power bus on the layout so anything that will transfer the volts has to be connected to the track...for anyone wondering it's a DC layout!

  8. OK Thanks a lot, you say the nozzles get blocked? Would wiping it with some sort off cleaning fluid sort it? And giving it a good shake will build some muscle not a problem. One last thing as the loco is currently in BR green am I best priming over the green or doing a complete strip down?

     

    Thanks again Matthew

  9. Hi all! I'm about to repaint a class 402 EMU into BR Dutch livery (yes I know they never carried the livery) after looking through many paint suppliers Railmatch look the best. Has anyone got experience with Railmatch spray cans? And will they produce a decent finsish?

     

    Thanks in advance....Matthew

  10. My project for this year is build Bishopton Station (Scotland) it will be set in the current era, with a wee bit off modelers licence, platforms will have to be sightly shorter than the real things. Gonna try and put more effort into this one rather than my last totally fictional layout. Gonna start a thread on it in a few weeks.

    • Like 1
  11. Yeah I will start a thread in the layout section but it won't be for a few weeks or months yet, pictures arn't a problem as it'll be set in 2018 I've got a friend who lives up there, don't think I'll make it up there at anytime living in Derbyshire. One last thing I need to work out is the station building I'm gonna try finding a kit I can do some surgery to last resort is scratch build it. Thanks a lot Matthew.

  12. What about Crewe Gresty Bridge? I caught 88007 being dragged by 37602 in Uttoxeter they were on there way from York Parcel sidings to Gresty Bridge although this was probably a one off service. All though that would be quit a drive probably one off the best chances of catching them.

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