andysollis1

What size speaker did you use? I’ve got a really small one that’s smaller than a Lego brick in mine and it still really loud.

On 20/01/2021 at 13:14, Simond said:

I got so fed up with my turntable losing position that it indexes & zeroes its position counter when I turn it on, and on every revolution thereafter.  I'm going to try these other stepper drivers, in the hope that they don't make the motor whistle...

 

Our CNC machine tools at work all reset themselves as part of the start up - you have to push a button to initiate it, they don't do it on their own, in case they would destroy a workpiece or tools, possibly after an e-Stop (it can't "know" why it was off).

 

I designed & programmed an arduino traverser drive for Paul Ashton, and I put a switch at each end - it did not have intermediate positions, but would initialise itself by going to both ends and triggering the switches.  Again, it would trip the switches at each end on every cycle, the step count was to allow a smooth acceleration and deceleration as this was a scenic traverser.  Could easily have intermediate stops and I suspect would be repeatably accurate.

 

Car windows of the anti-trap variety were part of my working life some 20 years ago.  They tended to use the rise in motor current to signify that the motor had stalled and therefore the glass was either full-up or full-down.  They generally counted the motor revs to work out intermediate positions, but the requirement was for force control, not positional accuracy, though the boundaries for the force control were quite tightly controlled.

 

I suggest you don't park a train across the gap when turning the layout off, or if that is a risk that you can't exclude, (it can't know why it was off) then have a start-up routine that is initiated by a finger-pressing-button, possibly the normal control, so you have to look and decide that it is safe to initialise the traverser.  Or fit a light beam / photodiode to ensure that it is safe to initiate movement.  Or both

 

atb

Simon

 

 

Hmm

Ive had my turntable set up running and now having a few issues that if it should snag due to warm weather/expansion it wont align roads. The hall sensor though is brilliant at setting zero on power up each time (providing the deck doesn't jam.

I'm wondering now, If I was to swap for a full board rather that the small board I have if I could instead add 5 more hall detectors and (as the 6 lines are all opposite) set it up so it just searches for the relevant sensor when the selection button for that entry/exit road is pushed? ie just ignore if it trips the other 5 in passing if the magnet should trigger them?

Whats your thoughts Gents ?

Andy

1 hour ago, dmustu said:

Hi All,

 

I decided to treat myself to an 08, my first foray into O gauge. Does anyone have any advice on getting into the model? I have tried following the instructions of squeezing the bodysides gently to lift the roof section off, but it feels like it's welded on, there's no sign of any give in the clips holding it in place! 

 

I have looked at removing the bodyshell completely by unscrewing the two small screws on the underside, these came out easily, but the coupling hooks pass through the body moulding, and are attached to small brass stubs that don't seem to want to budge!

 

Any advice you can offer to getting inside the model will be much appreciated.

 

Thanks Stu.

You are right on the first part, squeeze the body near the handrail (but avoid squeezing the hand rails) and the middle section should come away. Mine was tight the first 2-3 times. 
if you can start to see any gap appear try the credit card trick in the slot to try and stop it closing up

again. 

12 hours ago, Ron Ron Ron said:

250Bob,

See Izzy's post above.

 

The adapter Gaugemaster sells for this purpose.....

 

https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/magento/categories/model-railway-digital-control/model-railway-digital-control-dcc-other/gaugemaster-dcc77.html

 

 

.

Mine cost me around a 3rd of that price at £4.50

i did a bit of shopping around, if you know your cat 5 equipment, then what the model companies sell are very much inflated prices sadly for the same thing you can get off eBay or even if you wanted a facia plate version, B&Q! Just because it’s branded. Be wary.

51 minutes ago, 250BOB said:

Guys, 

As you probably know the Express model only has the one outlet, so it’s either plug the wired controller OR the wifi unit.  But not both.

Can I use an RJ45 splitter in the port.??

a 1x female by 2x male unit.  I just want to know for ease of programming on a separate piece of track using the tethered Prodigy controller.  When I’m playing with the little fella, it’ll be with my phone, while he uses my old iPhone 5 that he uses with TOUCHCAB on my layout.

Yes, did that with my Gaugemaster as I mentioned a few posts back

2 hours ago, Ron Ron Ron said:

 

 

It sounds like MRC have divulged some information, which they've asked you to keep to yourself.

 

An updated version coming?

A revised new system to replace the old?

 

Come on John, your amongst friends here......  

 

 

 

.

I read a similar post on another forum about the Gaugemaster versions knob on the front packing up - I think it was down to Gaugemaster not using the same part as specified from MRC, but a cheaper equivalent to keep price down. Hopefully that’s not the case and it’s not what’s occurred with the WiFi moduals. Don’t tend to put Gaugemaster is budget when you think of the great DC controllers they’ve made.

14 hours ago, 250BOB said:

Thanks again for your interest , your comments and thoughts appreciated.

I do need to keep this as simple as possible.... the layout is built on an 8’x4’ board and ready to transport to my grandsons house.  Remember he is only 6, and I’m not there most of the time, and his mum and dad won’t have a clue.

Cheers

bob

The 6 year old will have more clue that the rest of us put together! 

5 hours ago, TomE said:

More bridge bits. There’s an element of trial & error getting things the right size so still some tweaks to make. 
 

 

Tom. 

I’ve not actually done N gauge for a number of years and have recently been concentrating my 3D designs in OO and O (I have done some via Shapeways in N to sell) but have to say that your bridge supports are mighty  impressive regardless of what support your have or not used! 
 

I’ve got an Anycubic in order, but downloaded the software in advance. 
 

im wondering, if I were doing a roof of an apex building (say a signal box) and also the wooden top of a signal box that was open at the top (removable roof) which was the best orientation to print either part. Bottom to the bed or rotate it 180 and print the flat bottom

last? 
 

andy 

20 hours ago, 250BOB said:

Thanks guys for your replies.

I wondered maybe if the background colour green where the Loco number is, perhaps turned red.????

it works like that on the TOUCHCAB app on my iPhone that I use for my Lenz operating system.

I am a great advocate of using wifi operation using my phone, but just trying to get up to speed with Gaugemaster and their WiThrottle wifi system before I purchase.

The express model may well be sufficient for my grandsons layout 8ft x 4ft, max two locos running.

Have you already bought a controller?

if not, why not look at a Sprog2 interface so you can program and drive your layout from the laptop or your phone?

and at £60 it’s much cheaper than a commercial controller.

all you need is WiFi! Decoder pro, Wii Throttle and a layout.

4 minutes ago, 250BOB said:

Question.... I know when you have a short everything stops... but what shows on the WiThrottle screen to indicate as such.

I don’t recall anything? Nor on the android version (sorry forget it’s name as I don’t personally use it, but my dad does)

andy 

I’ll also add that I’ve also used the WiThrottle app on the same phone using my own home WiFi back to the laptop and a sprog2 to control the running in of locos with no issues whatsoever. 
another reason for suspecting the Gaugemaster part.

46 minutes ago, 250BOB said:

I’d be interested to hear how WiThrottle (iphone) users have found the MRC wifi units success/reliability or not maybe.

The problem on here is that you rarely hear of the success stories, it’s always the problems that get discussed.

I am a dedicated Lenz and Touchcab user, and have been for years.  I want to purchase something cheaper with a wifi ability for a much smaller layout (grandson 6).  
does the MRC DCC05 work ok with the simplerProdigy Express unit.

 

As I posted last year, it can suddenly drop out leaving a loco running with no control. Yet the app itself will stop all trains when it’s changed to something other than the throttle (ie keypad or another app) which suggests to me it’s the Gaugemaster WiFi modual. My dad has also had it running on his android tablet, which although more stable, sometimes struggles with the saved functions of each loco in the roster. 
 

I still believe it may be the modual at fault and not the Android or Apple apps myself, but happy to be proved otherwise as I have no background knowledge in the systems, only logical common sense. 

/* Example sketch to control a Peco Turntable in OO using a 28BYJ-48 stepper motor with ULN2003 driver board, AccelStepper and Arduino UNO: acceleration and deceleration. By A.Sollis Dec 2020 */

// Include the AccelStepper library:
#include <Stepper.h> 
#include <AccelStepper.h>
#include <Wire.h>

// Motor pin definitions:
#define motorPin1  8      // IN1 on the ULN2003 driver
#define motorPin2  9      // IN2 on the ULN2003 driver
#define motorPin3  10     // IN3 on the ULN2003 driver
#define motorPin4  11     // IN4 on the ULN2003 driver

// Define the AccelStepper interface type; 4 wire motor in half step mode:
#define MotorInterfaceType 8

// Initialize with pin sequence IN1-IN3-IN2-IN4 for using the AccelStepper library with 28BYJ-48 stepper motor:
AccelStepper stepper = AccelStepper(MotorInterfaceType, motorPin1, motorPin3, motorPin2, motorPin4);
int Pin07Read ;  // step Road 1 (head)
int Pin06Read ;  // step Road 2 (head)
int Pin05Read ;  // step Road 3 (head)
int Pin04Read ;  // step Road 1 (tail)
int Pin03Read ;  // step Road 2 (tail)
int Pin02Read ;  // step Road 3 (tail)
int PinA1Read ;  // Nudge left
int PinA2Read ;  // Nudge right

void setup() {
  digitalWrite(16,HIGH);
  digitalWrite(15,HIGH);
  digitalWrite(7, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(6, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(5, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(4, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(3, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(2, HIGH);

  Serial.begin(9600); // Start screen print

  // Set the maximum steps per second:
  stepper.setMaxSpeed(60);
  // Set the maximum acceleration in steps per second^2:
  stepper.setAcceleration(5);

  //configure pin13 as an input and enable the internal pull-up resistor
  pinMode(13, INPUT_PULLUP);
  //configure analogue pin 1 and 2 to be used for "nudge" sequence
  pinMode(A1, INPUT_PULLUP); 
  pinMode(A2, INPUT_PULLUP);

  //read the sensor (open collector type) value into a variable

  int sensorVal = digitalRead(13);

  // if near reference point move away

  sensorVal = digitalRead(13);

  Serial.println("Finding Sensor Clockwise"); // Turn clockwise to find sensor
  while (sensorVal == HIGH) {
    sensorVal = digitalRead(13);
    stepper.moveTo(stepper.currentPosition() + 1000);
    stepper.runSpeedToPosition();

    delay(5);
  }

  // step forward to sensor index point
  Serial.println("Finding Sensor anti clockwise"); // turn to find sensor
  while (sensorVal == LOW) {
    sensorVal = digitalRead(13);
    stepper.moveTo(stepper.currentPosition() - 100);
    stepper.runSpeedToPosition();

    delay(50);
  }
  stepper.setCurrentPosition(0);
 }

void loop() {

  // run to position with set acceleration
  stepper.runToPosition();

  Pin07Read = digitalRead(7) ;
  Pin06Read = digitalRead(6) ;
  Pin05Read = digitalRead(5) ;
  Pin04Read = digitalRead(4) ;
  Pin03Read = digitalRead(3) ;
  Pin02Read = digitalRead(2) ;
  PinA1Read = digitalRead(15) ;
  PinA2Read = digitalRead(16) ;
  
 
  //  check which button is being pressed - chooses which road is set

 if (PinA1Read == LOW)
  {
    stepper.move(+20);
    Serial.println("Nudge Clockwise: ");
    delay(500);
  }
  else

    if (PinA2Read == LOW)
    {
        stepper.move(-20);      
      Serial.print("Nudge anti-clockwise: ");
      delay(500);
    }
    else

  
  if (Pin07Read == LOW)
  {
    stepper.moveTo(350);
    Serial.println("Current Road 3  +350: ");
  }
  else

    if (Pin06Read == LOW)
    {
        stepper.moveTo(0);      
      Serial.print("Current Road 2 zero: ");
    }
    else

      if (Pin05Read == LOW)
      {
        stepper.moveTo(-350);
        Serial.print("Current Road 1 -350: ");
      }
      else

        if (Pin04Read == LOW)
        {
          stepper.moveTo(2400);
          Serial.print("Current Road 6 2400: ");

        }
        else

          if (Pin03Read == LOW)
          {
            stepper.moveTo(2090);
            Serial.print("Current Road 5 2090: ");
          }
          else

            if (Pin02Read == LOW)
            {
              stepper.moveTo(1725);
              Serial.print("Current Road 4 1725: ");
            }
            else
            {

              digitalWrite(8, LOW);
              digitalWrite(9, LOW);
              digitalWrite(10, LOW);
              digitalWrite(11, LOW);;
              Serial.print("Current steppermotor position: ");
              Serial.println(stepper.currentPosition());
            }

}

Here is my code should anyone be interested. 6 pre-set positions, hall sensor to set zero from the deck.

Andy

Thank you guys,

Sorted!

Just need to physically wire it in to the box and then set the steps to nudge.

Andy

7 hours ago, Simond said:

“Simond’s turntable threat” ILO “Simond’s turntable thread”.

 

I assume we’re talking about this thread.  Way back in the sands of time I was working on my turntable.  It’s so long ago I’ve forgotten more than I remember!

 

My stepper has an integral gearhead, which does suffer from backlash.  As is alway the case, there is more than one way of skinning the cat, and I initially used a constant, which I added to, or subtracted from the step count on reversal.  I’m sure it could be made to work, but I reviewed it many times and got very fed up.  I solved the backlash problem, and incremental errors (probably but not certainly missed steps) by a) allowing the table to only rotate anti-clockwise and b) resetting the step count every time it passes the photo sensor.

 

on my layout, there is almost never a need to turn clockwise, so the loss of this minor element of fidelity is not an issue, and is far outweighed by the table hitting its presets every time.

 

hope this helps

Happy New Year!

Simon

I think it will probably be more fun in the end to just add the extra nudge buttons. 
 

what I’ve tried and failed in is actually doing the nudge so far. I can move to a preset position, but it seems to throw an error when I add in to the sketch a +or- figure ? I’m guess I’m not doing it right as still learning. It’s not quite like the BBC basic and Comodore basic I did 30 Years ago as a kid ! 

Oops! Yes.

edited the auto corruptions!

Thanks Gents.

I’ll give this a try as I don’t seem to be getting any joy with dialling out backlash on my turntable (see Simond’s turntable thread mentioned previously) so I thought I’d add two more push buttons to nudge the deck

a step or two either way.

andy 

Odd question ...I’m using an Uno and have used all the digital inputs.

can I also use the analogue ones for a switch to trigger an action with a stepper motor? 
 

or would I be better looking at a mega board? 

1 hour ago, ianjeffery said:

hI, not been on here for a while, but thought id come back for a bit.

 

@andysollis1 i can help you with the code if you need help.  I dabled a bit with backlash but gave up for a more direct drive and using microsteps ( tmc2208 ).

 

if you need my help,  just ask. its only fair i give back what i got out of this.

 

Ian

 

https://www.dccinterface.com/turntable

 

A very grateful PM has been sent.

andy 

Well I seem to have come to a standstill, waiting on others to give me a hint with code that I can’t fathom on my own. Maybe a model forum is not the best place to ask, but also lacked replies on the other forums. 
 

it may have to simply be I add another button to just nudge the deck 

Very interesting. 
 

any progress? 

5 hours ago, leopardml2341 said:

Doesn't answer your question in Arduino terms, but see here:

 

https://robotics.stackexchange.com/questions/14844/how-to-reduce-the-small-free-rotation-movement-of-a-stepper-motor-shaft

Yes, that’s just the issue..

maybe I need to be less of a cheap skate and go for a better stepper .. lol

but that will probably mean a re-write of the sketch. (Why is it a sketch and not coding?? We never had sketches when I did GCSE and A level computing in the 1990’s? Mind you it was on a BBC model B! A sketch was what you did in art class!)

Hello again...

Ive finally caught up on the previous 27 pages of the topic..

now a few years back someone mentioned re adding in a line to the sketch re “Backlash”.... as I’m still learning on the programming side, how do I set this up? I think I can follow how to add it in later in the loop, but I’ve not really understood the setup phase? Would it be something like stepper == backlash ? 
 

I think if I can master this bit it will really put the cream on the cake for my very basic (and cheap) set up non DCC using the 28BJY-48 stepper with the ULN2003 sheild. 
Andy 

Gents,

I’m not getting a result I expect and would like to ask for some further help.

so when the turntable is in place and on the layout I can work out the final figures to align the tracks to I have used the following to show on the serial monitor.:

Serial.print(“Position: “);

Serial.print(stepper.currentPosition());

but this only updates when it stops?

anyone know a change to show it as it increments and decreases live? (Is it possible?)

Andy