petejones

I think I will be OK flexing a couple of the bullhead turnouts - I snipped some of the webbing from the underside of one and it flexes really well. Once fixed down, they should work a treat.

I'm still planning a layout and could do with a couple of Y turnouts, but Peco don't make any for their bullhead range (yet), which is what I intend to use for the layout. I looked at C+L Finescale, but they don't seem to do any kits for these either, so how easy would it be to make a couple? I've never built track let alone turnouts, but more than willing to give it a go. Would a Peco turnout be easy enough to modifiy into a Y turnout?

Just wondered what size/angle turnout is Peco SL-U1195? I compared it to a Templot B-6 and it seems about the same. Cheers Pete

Am I correct with the following coupling types for GWR rolling stock during the period 1930-1950? I read that only express goods used Instanter. I've used photographs to help with my research. Siphon, Warwell, Fruit D, Cattle, Conflat and Passenger Coaches all had screw link couplings Plank wagons had 3-link couplings What about brake vans? I have seen photos of 3-link and Instanter, but as my layout is a branch line, there will be no express goods, so 3-link? Cheers Pete

Thanks, I will get samples of Slaters and Brassmasters, and the other Smiths couplings.

I don't suppose you could measure one of the links could you? Or at least tell me if they are shorter than the Smith's links?

Thanks Andy. I did manage to fit springs to one RTR wagon, but the spring didn't lie flat enough for the body of the wagon to fit back on.

Metal buffers are a good idea, thanks. I already replaced the plastic wheels for metal (Dapol) on any of the older wagons I purchased 2nd hand.

What's the worst that can happen if they aren't sprung? 😟

All good, John, thanks - tried the wagons on a Peco 1st radius curve and no issues. The worst curve I will have is a 3rd radius (using a 21-in tracksetta).

Just fitted couplings to three Dapol wagons and it took me about an hour. It's straightforward enough. I didn't use the springs and split-pins, but added some z-poxy resin behind the buffer beams to hold the hooks in place.

I think I will pop some plastic magic glue on them when I disassemble, just to make sure.

Thanks for the replies so far. I did find some 2x3mm jewelry chain and tried attaching it to one of the Smith's hooks and you are right, it's too short. I then tried the Smith's hook with one of the Accurascale Instanter couplings and that works really well, so I think I will go for that combination. Certainly is a bit fiddly to couple the wagons together, but I will make a tool to do it. This layout is only for myself, so I don't mind the "big hand from the sky" whilst I am fiddling around with wagons.

Looking to fit 3-link couplings to all my rolling stock (not much to be honest, around 60 wagons, 9 coaches and 6 locos). I have a pack of the Instanter couplings from Accurascale, which are nice, but I don't like the plastic hooks. I also have a couple of packs of Smiths 3-link couplings and fitted a pair to a single wagon last night. The hook is good, but I found it went too far underneath the wagon, so would be looking to trim it to size and glue it in place, rather than use the springs and split-pins. However, the chain is too long for my liking. Has anyone tried fine jewelry chain, such as this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361021849503?hash=item540e943f9f:g:cnYAAOSwh2xX~OHJ Cheap as chips and it looks about right being 3mm long per link (the Smiths links are 5mm long). Cheers Pete

Thanks very much, John.