TheEastSuffolkman

Afternoon All!

Currently planning a new 00 Gauge / 4mm layout and looking to start on stock weathering, detailing and conversion whilst I slowly start on the layout construction as the stock jobs can be done during short evening sessions when I can't always make it to the shed.

One of these jobs on all my stock is to fit new couplings, as I'm going for a super detailed look on all vehicles but the tension lock couplings just don't aid that feel when on the layout. The other reason is that because the layout is being planned as a potential exhibition one, I would like to use semi-automatic couplings for shunting to decrease the need for 'hand of god' involvement.

So far, I seem to like the look and idea of DG Couplings and Dinghams, the only 'downside' of the latter being that I need to join the Gauge O Guild to buy them.

I have seen many people use and say that DG's are good for use in 2mmfs layouts (James Hilton's videos being the most informative I've found so far), but haven't seen anything for 4mm scale, although I know you can buy them for 4mm.

Can anyone provide a constructive insight to the use of DG in 4mm scale, or recommend any alternative for fine and unobtrusive coupling of stock?

Best Regards

Jack

Recently started planning an East Anglia / Suffolk Branch Line layout and whilst curating a list of stock to create authentic operations, purchased a Dapol Class 21 in all-over BR Green.

As I operate DCC, I'd especially like to make all the stock for this layout sound fitted.

I have seen a few options out there for sound files but from the limited videos I can find, none so fare have really taken my fancy / don't feel their quality is quite up to par for what I want (even if generic sounds are used) compared to some of the other classic high-end sounds files we can get.

What I'm especially looking for is decent Prime Mover sounds as most places (similar to previous experiences I've had) can replace Horns and other ancillary sounds to suit.

Does anyone have any suggestions / examples of sound files available for the Class 21? 

That's everyone for the responses, I've ended up ordering some cheese head screws and washers from Accu and i'll see how they go, however, that eBay link has been saved in case the Accu stuff turns out to be naff!

Hoping someone will be able to help / advise or point me in the right direction.

When I got my Dapol / ROS 00 gauge Terrier a while back, I took it apart and fitted a sound decoder.

When I tried to put it back together, I found that the rear body screw wasn't biting. Testing it off the chassis, it worked fine which would lead me to believe it has stripped the first few threads as its come apart and the screw is no longer long enough to bite when re-assembling.

I have tried searching the web for a longer replacement that I can cut down to length if need but nothing is coming up.

Please see the attached photos for the dimensions and type of screw required. Any help is much appreciated.

Cheers

Jack

Hi Tobes

Coastal DCC's Sound file is quite nice IMO.

If you contact Kevin, I'm sure he'll be able to help you.

I use Coastal for most of my DCC needs and Kevin has always managed to sort me out with my DCC needs. Can't recommend enough!

All the best

Jack

https://www.coastaldcc.co.uk/

July 2021 Release - Bachmann 32-682SF - Class 45/0 Centre Headcode D53 'Royal Tank Regiment' BR Green (SYP) - Confirmed to be a Loksound V5 21 Pin. Haven't had a chance to look inside yet as I've only had the chip type confirmed by my local with a Lokprogrammer before purchasing, but would presume the speaker is a 4 or 8 ohm 40mm x 20mm Tray Type speaker.

12 minutes ago, charliepetty said:

Been a busy month with Simon at Proper Sounds completing a pair of Class 14s for a new customer, we have used a ESU Micro decoder with our Legomanbiffo new sound file and the Sugarcube speaker kit supplied with all ESU decoders.  This model is tight for space but these speaker kits are effective and adaptable thus fitting easily into most small loco's.  Just in case we have fitted our new SuperCap Stayalives.  Preprogramed to the customers required address before despatch.

 

 

 

Your thought please.  Simon & Charlie

I may have a slight bias as that is my model of D9537 but that is the absolute Dog's You-Know-Whats!

As a DCC sound modeller and a great lover of the Teddy Bears, I've always wanted fit my model with sound but as said, the space comes at a premium and this was one install I really didn't want to tackle!

After hearing the good word and seeing the work done by Simon via his FB page and YouTube channel, I asked for a quote for the work and as they say, the rest is history!

Really made my evening when Simon pinged through the video to me last night! A nice bit of Paxman thrash to end the day!

As is evident in the video, Simon has done a fantastic job and I can't wait to get it back on the home layout  

Well, Here's a little update on the project a little further on.

All of the lighting and wiring has been completed, including as before, the fitting of figures to the passenger saloon.

The unit has been fitted with a standard 21pin Loksound V5 fitted to an ESU adapter and aux booster board to allow enough AUX functions to power all the separate lighting functions.

The next stage is to finalise and adjust some of the cable management in the 'short end' to get the body on fully, and paint some more of the interior to minimise the light bleed but I want to see what brightness adjustments I can make first (although I reckon this will not have much effect on the bleed)

Then it will be a case of waiting for Bif to finish helping me out with the customisation of his brilliant soundfile which is currently in progress (and I am very grateful for his help so far).

Once this has been loaded on, I can begin to re-map the AUX lighting functions to the desired keys so they work with the sounds and operation of the model, and that should be project finished.

Below are some photos of the unit in it's current state, showing off all the individual lighting functions.

That's what I was trying to avoid doing but bit the bullet and did it in the end.

Hello All,

As I'm starting to get braver delving into DCC modification, I have decided to take on upgrading my Hornby Class 153 (more general post was made in another part of the forum for fitting parts).

Part of this upgrade is to fit sound via an ESU Loksound 21pin decoder on an ESU 51968 21pin Adapter board (with booster circuitry) and wiring in existing and extra lighting functions to the AUX functions.

As part of my prep for wiring I have check Hornby's standard wiring to the Head/Tail light clusters and it has a common negative for the lighting board.

Looking at the ESU manual, the 'U+' for AUX functions would indicate to me that it is a common positive that is required for wiring.

Would anyone me able to help me as to how I should wire in the lighting clusters for directional lighting plus the option for tails both ends if the unit was parked?

Any advise appreciated.

Many Thanks

Jack

On 10/01/2021 at 22:38, giz said:

You might find these links on the 'dcc, sound and lighting updates' website useful if you haven't already seen them:

http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/class-153/index.htm

http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/class-153nutec/index.htm

http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/class-153sound/index.htm

 

 

Thanks for the links Giz, They will certainly be most helpful with the installation, especially once I get my head around LEDs, voltages and resistors 

20 hours ago, legomanbiffo said:

Jack,

 

As always, I'm happy to work with a customer to achieve what they want so no concerns on that score. To deal with your points in turn;

 

1. Most of the changes such as interior lights, independent directional light control and cab lights are simple CV changes as you suggest. It's just a case of mapping the function keys to the appropriate auxiliary outputs and choosing the lighting mode (eg flickering in the case of your interior lights). I'm happy to advise on that if you get stuck.

 

2. My 153 sound project already has the door opening lights mapped to Aux1, and they stay on whilst the door closing sound is playing (unlike simple mapping would permit). However, what you want is slightly different so I need to look at how I could program for that. It is something I need to do to reflect prototypical operation though by the sound of it. It's certainly do-able.

 

3. In view of how many controllable outputs are needed I would suggest using a Loksound MKL chip which has plenty of outputs, and all are at full voltage so you wouldn't need amplifying transistors for the LED's, just the LED's themselves and series resistors. The MKL (as used in the Hattons 66) is the same price as a normal 21-pin. You would need to use a 21-pin adapter plate but these are not expensive and would aid your modifications anyway I think.

 

4. There's plenty of room in the sound project to add some announcements voiced by yourself. I can give you guidance on recording them. They aren't something you can add yourself though, I would need them here when I create the sound project.

 

Can I suggest that you make contact with us and we can start to discuss the fine details.

 

Bif

 

 

Bif, thanks for the response,

absolutely I will get in touch with you guys shortly to talk the finer points, just got a few bits to sort with the whole project first to get it prepared before I drop you a line.

One quick question you might be able to answer for me if possible, what is the output voltage on the AUX functions of the MKL as I've had a look through the ESU manual and (probably me just missing the obvious as I always do) can't find the output value. I've ben looking at SMLEDs and the 'wiring for 12V operation', would this be the correct base voltage to work off when looking at what LEDs I need to get?

Many Thanks to all,

Jack

Hello all,

I've had this project on the back burner for a long time and am now feeling ready to start attempting to complete the project.

I acquired a Hornby Class 153 in the original Greater Anglia livery scheme and wanted to do *almost* everything I can with DCC operation to the model, lights, sound, etc

The model already has directional lighting so that is okay to go but the following is the list of adjustments that I want to make to the model to 'kit it out' :

• Fit a Loksound V5 (Standard) with LMB soundfile with some custom adjustments / sound slots
• Fit Cab Lights in each end (warm white)
• Fit interior lights (warm white) and add a 'filament  flicker' when they turn on.
• Fit BIL / Door Hazard / Interlock lights and get them working in sync with the sound file
• *Possibly* Add independent control of the head and tail lights at each end (not modifying for Day / Night functionality, just independent control of what shows what on each end)

Now most of the programming side will be a mess about with my lokprogrammer when it's installed and that's fine with me, but I would like some help in picking out the right products to complete the above jobs. I have no worries about installing all of the kit required and am quite happy to but my knowledge of electrical equipment is non-existent (knowledge of LEDs and Resistors required, etc). Below I shall head the sections of the project as above and my questions that come with each section. Any help, advise or direction would be very much appreciated.

Sound:

I know that i want to fit a Loksound V5 with LMB's 153 soundfile but there are a few questions that I have that I would like to know if I can set up. This section is probably more aimed at the LMB crew and when I order the decoder/soundfile, I'll put the questions forward but encase anyone else is here who has had previous experience of the sound file, I'll post my thoughts / questions here as well:

• Would it be possible to add some custom announcements, the GA 153s never had automated announcements  but was going to record some my self as 'the conductor' to add to the file? Does this need to be done before I get the sound file or can I add my own sound slot after getting the file and add it myself?
• With the dispatch procedure on a Class 153, the 'passenger door' would be closed first with the closing alarm, once closed, the guard would check the door (interlock light still illuminated) and then close his local door with no alarm, the interlock light would go out and then give the RA / TRTS to the driver on the Bell-Buzzer. The bell-buzzer is on a separate function so i'm not worried about that but, is the 'door/dispatch sequence' possible on the sound file or would it require a lot of sound file re-writing and it's worth just forgetting about it? (Having previously worked with the GA 153s, I'd quite like to get the sequence correct and am happy to do a lot of the programming work but it's obviously not my sound file and appreciate other have better things to do that create door sequences)

Cab Lights:

Fairly simple question for this one compared to the last I guess, what LEDs (Warm white required) and Resistors should I use for the Cab lights and how do I wire these in to a Loksound V5 so they are independently controlled, if not, make them directionally function-able?

Interior Lights:

Pretty much, same as the last one, what LEDs / strip (Warm white required) and Resistors should I use for the interior lights and how do I wire these in to a Loksound V5?

Door BIL / Hazard / Interlock lights:

Again, what LEDs (orange (I guess) required) and Resistors should I use for the BIL / Door Hazard / Interlock lights and how do I wire these in to a Loksound V5?

Independent Head / Tail Lights:

Finally, the Hornby 153 lighting system seems to work off a simple common positive/negative style system (see attached photos), Is there a way I can wire these into a Loksound V5 so they are independently controlled (i.e. Tails on both ends for stabling, and normal directional running lights. *NOT Day and Night modification*)

I have seen various bits and pieces of equipment and guides out there and know most of this is probably possible but this is my first time attempting something this complex with regards to lighting and modification.

Once again, any help is greatly appreciated so I can arm myself for when i'll probably start next month.

Thanks for Reading

Jack

Brilliant, thanks Bif!

I have just taken delivery on the new LMB file on a Plux22 chip and it sounds really good. I note that some of the sounds are CV changeable by the user to give a different sound of the same 'item'. 

Does anyone know what CVs and Values i'd have to change to try out these other sounds? (using a lokprogrammer.)

On 16/06/2020 at 10:49, tractor_37260 said:

 

Hi Jack

Lenz Set 101 ? Although it has many good new features, I find it awkward to access max SS for the "wheel slip" feature, due to having to turn the speed dial round and round "numerous" times to finally get up to SS128, far easier using the the large SS buttons on an earlier Lenz 100, or even easier using a Roco Multimaus.

Do you find this an issue ? or have I perhaps missed something with the new 101 throttle ? 

Your 37 sounds good with that Boom box speaker, 

TIA

Ken

 

Sometimes, you are right that you have to turn the dial quickly for the wheel slip but I find there is a 'sweet' speed of turning the dial to achieve the wheel slip to decent effect.

On 16/06/2020 at 12:06, charliepetty said:

Have you contacted 'charlie@dckits.co.uk'  to get it sorted out.

 

Charlie

Yes, all sorted and greatly received the replacement decoder the other week! Many Thanks Charlie

2 hours ago, two tone green said:

Any further news on your defective decoder 

Haven't had the chance yet to try it in another loco, but will probably do so in the next day or so so hopefully i can find out?

6 minutes ago, charliepetty said:

The replacement was sent over a week ago.    Charlie

Thanks Charlie!  Hopefully it won't be long until it arrives

After i took this video, I removed the decoder and put it back in a decoder tester and it seemed to work fine again. The only things i can think that might affect it is that the speaker is wired through the board, not direct to the speaker, or that the motor has a resistor fitted to each side / Has had the TV Suppressor's removed.

1 minute ago, waggy said:

Realised my mistake after i posted, now amended, some R&R speakers are 8 ohm others 4 ohm, believe the V4 uses 4 ohm

V4's can use either 4ohm or 8ohm I believe, both work?

On 24/05/2020 at 18:32, wiggy1 said:

 

OK, it may just be a coincidence but it seams to do it just as it hits that isolating gap on the points.

Had a similar thing today, never happened before and it did it 4 times but always in the same place which pointed me to the track.

Looking at the video is the back axle on the leading bogie on the track or just off it?

Dose it do it in the same place?

Just an observation.

Wiggy.

I must admit, i thought the exact same at first but i managed to get the same fault when using the loco on a rolling road.

On 22/05/2020 at 16:36, TheEastSuffolkman said:

I had an update from Ian about a month ago saying that he had found a way around the problem, which (unfortunately for him) meant re-writing the whole sound file from scratch until ESU had found a resolve to the problem.

 

Seemed to be something between the new software and hardware of the V5's.

 

I am just awaiting a replacement chip to be returned and then I can hopefully get my 37 sounding sweet again!

As above, I spoke to Ian and he said he had managed to re-write the file, which seemed to sort the problem. 

He said that he had spoke to Charlie at DC Kits to get a replacement sent out, but that was over a month **BUT** with the current situation that a lot of us find ourselves in, I appreciate that things aren't running as normal at the moment, although have emailed Charlie and Ian to get the latest and try try and not 'loose it in the melee' so to speak.

As I say, I can't speak highly enough of the Legomanbiffo sound files and the service I've had from DC Kits so just hoping get this sorted soon so I can finally enjoy a 'Proper' Class 37 sound!

On 24/05/2020 at 20:45, pheaton said:

is your speaker hardwired to the chip or is it wired to the loco board? 

Wired to the loco board, as per the old 3.5 install.

A couple of weeks ago, I acquired a 21pin Blank Loksound V4 second hand off a well known auction site, with the intention of reblowing it on my lokprogrammer and installing it into my Class 45 to replace the factory fitted V3.5.

After receiving the chip, i tested as a blank chip (basic, minimal stock sounds were already on it to prove it worked) on my lokprogrammer with my decoder tester, and all seemed well and good.

I then ordered the sound file from DC kits as an online reblow, loaded it to the chip and tested with the decoder tester and all seemed OK.

I installed it into the Class 45 and fitted a R&R double iPhone speaker, and tested on my layout, all seemed good to start with. Then all of a sudden, the loco went unresponsive, all lights (Tail and headcodes) came on at once and the sound shut off.

I have since run some more trials on the lokprogrammer and deduced that the problem may lie with the loco rather than the decoder.

I have come to this conclusion as when i run the decoder on the decoder tester, it works perfectly, no faults. As soon as its in the loco, the faults start occurring.

Has anyone else had this experience with a loco? I have included a video of the fault for clarification.

After the above, I returned my chip to Charlie at DC Kits, and have since been speaking with him and Ian (Biffo) about the problem as I seemed to be one of very, very few that had this exact issue.

I had an update from Ian about a month ago saying that he had found a way around the problem, which (unfortunately for him) meant re-writing the whole sound file from scratch until ESU had found a resolve to the problem.

Seemed to be something between the new software and hardware of the V5's.

I am just awaiting a replacement chip to be returned and then I can hopefully get my 37 sounding sweet again!

I did try a double iphone from yourself in this and had the same fault. Emailed Charlie earlier and he said to try CV8 to 8 so going to try that first and see what happens. Just been testing it again on the rolling road and got it to do it for the first time but it happened when i went to speed step 15 on the programmer, put drive hold on and then wack the throttle up to simulate constant wheel slip. Still not sure what would cause it though??