scanman

.

 

EDIT: it's worth observing that the variations in the frames of GWR tenders is so great that trying to produce an etch to cover them all would be futile.

 

Chris

Ahh - the benefits og GWR Standardisation

Body only wanted - livery not important! No reasonable offer refused...

PM Sent!

Hi Folks -

Does anyone have a set of instructions for this kit that they could scan/email me?? I'm completing one for a friend and the instructions are missing.  Particularly relevant are the bogies/underframe.

Any assistance gratefully received,

Regards

Ian

I need to get the chassis done for these, in fact this post has prompted me to put it onto the etched artwork I am doing this week.

 

Was about to press the purchase button on Shapeways, until I realised that I

 

1. want the 1:148 version

2. would like it with curved drop front end. I fancy modelling 2906 as shown in BR days in GWRJ 42 p103.

 

https://i.pinimg.com/564x/7c/48/ff/7c48ff7d0a56a0f33c9bfeb25f5678bd--british-rail-steam-locomotive.jpg

 

http://railphotoprints.uk/img/s/v-3/p226740637-3.jpg

 

There is no satisfying some people.

 

Chris

Hi Chris -

If you havn't seen it already, this one might do!

https://www.shapeways.com/product/ZZ3G874YR/gwr-saint-class-locomotive-n-gauge?optionId=57360000

Regards

Ian

I see that the update for Emblaser 2 production on their website support thread has said that they have changed consultants for CE approval, (old ones moving too slowly), no new dates or other info - so I guess it's still going to be a fair wait before the EU ones get shipped.

 

I suppose if you want to look at the positives - at least Darkly will have cleared all the US backlog by the time they get CE so they will be able to devote most of their production to it, and they should have removed most of the wrinkles from product and production!

 

Tim

By the time the EU get round to certifying it, the UK may well be out.  Much easier dealing with ONE government than twentyeight!

I DID find the 3D button and the render looks great!  Let me know when it's on the market & I'll definitely have one (or two!)

Nice work (again) Chris

Regards

Ian B

 

 

I'm actually wondering about laser cut strips of self adhesive label, kind of like the York Model making slates, to model the "weatherboard" with some relief. Has anyone tried that?

 

Justin

Something like this...?

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/108310-darkly-labs-emblaser-affordable-laser-cutter-review/?p=2376233

If I can help, pm me - all I need is a dimensioned drawing/good image.

Regards

scanman

Nice!

 

How well does the gloss applied to the wagons match that which was scanned and printed onto the decals.

 

Is it the case that you might not notice any variation as it will be on a different face of the wagon? Or just disguised by weathering?

Hi -

It doesn't really matter - the subsequent layers hide the initial gloss coat - which in any case is only applied where the transfers are applied.  I don't apply a complete side as a transfer - they are cut into individual sections  - main/part of the main logo, return location, tare weight etc.  Fiddly but it avoids larger deformation caused by wagon strapping etc.

Hope this helps,

Regards

Ian

First -my thanks to those of you who responded both here and on the VAG regarding the brake systems, Details duly noted for subsequent builds!

Right - on with the story...  With a competition coming up, and the necessity of some 'P.O.' wagons, I decided to batch-build some from 'Association' kits.  Two variants (5- and 7-plank) were planned.  The kits are very good, being in two parts - a pack of bodies and a separate pack with chassis in etched brassl  The usual small tools were used...

I had been recommended by two contributors (and veteran 2mmSA members) to build & detail the chassis 'in the flat'.  I thought I could see some pitfalls in that - but they might be overcome by the use of jigs to hold everything steady so -

The first jig allows the insertion of the axle-bearings into the w-irons thus -

where the bearings are held in location by the merest trace of solder-cream and a dab from a hot (375C) iron -

As I expect to have several jigs over time, it makes sense to be able to identify them!

Now for the rest of the detail - solebars, axleboxes etc.  To hold it steady another jig (simply four 2mm wire rods) were inserted adjacent to the original jigs, passing through holes in the chassis -

The third jig was the easiest of them all - a cocktail stick -

-for making the axle-boxes -

which fold up on three parts. Having made four - and folded up the two-layer solebar overlays using my trusty 'Hold n Fold', it was time to put it all together -

Et voila - all done 'in the flat' -

Following the advice acknowledged above, simple one-side' brake gear was then attached,  Just four more to make...

When all were complete, they were cleaned of excess solder (a beauty of this solder cream is that it can be removed with a fibreglass brush).  A swim in the ultrasonic bath, a dip in 'Acidip) and a plunge into 'Nickel-black', followed by a warm dry on the coffe-pot heater(!) and the chassis were ready -

The bodies were a fairly simple matter, bearing in mind they are styrene and respond well to solvent adhesive.

On then to the liveries.  The 'Odiham Branch' of course never existed in real life.  So an internet search revealed the names of a couple of coal-merchants in the area who might have owned a small fleet.  Of course there were also the major coal-factors who would supply smaller concerns.  The airfield would of course demand other 'govermint owned' wagons.  Next port of call was a well-thumbed series of 'The Modellers Sketchbook of P.O Wagons' and several liveries suggested themselves.  But how to create them?  In this scale and lack of steadiness in the hand  -plus time restraints - led me to creating my own waterslide transfers.

First job was to paint the wagons in the relevant base-colour.  At the same time paint swatches were put on a sheet of paper and then scanned into the computer - at the same time scanning in a set of wagon-sides.  Using an 'image-handling' program ('Paintshop Pro') the scanned wagon-sides were copied several times and then 'flooded' with the relevant base-colour.  With me so far?  Good!

Next job was to import the 'jpeg' into a 'Desk Top Publishing' program ('CorelDraw' Essentials) and create the liveries...  I then printed them on 'Crafty Computer Paper' - who also do 'white'. -

From there it was a 'simple' decaling job (trimming the decals as required.  'Simple'?  First 'gloss' the wagon and let it dry.  Apply the decals using 'Microsol' and let them dry...  Apply a satin varnish (I use 'Purity Seal' from 'Games Workshop') and let it dy..  Then apply A matt varnish (I use 'Testors Dullcote' in a VERY well ventilated area!) and let THAT dry!  Why the additional layer of satin?  I find that applying 'Dullcote' over a bare decal leads to it crazing...  Others will choose a different route - but this works for me -

Ahh yes - the Competition...

RESULT!

(I even created the logos on the shields using layered acrylic and my laser-cutter!)

Right - next job... (but not in 2mm!)

I've been using 2mm 'Depron Foam' for underlay for the last couple of years (3mm in 7mm).  A dense urethane foam - goes down flat and stays flat.  Use a 'foam' type adhesive SPARINGLY, and weight it down with 9mm ply leftovers.  As with everything it has a drawback - don't linger with the soldering iron....

Morning everyone - a quick (?) question (which I've just posted on the 2mmVAG as well).

I'm currently building a rake of 'PO' wagons based on the 2-327 chassis.  The etch comes with three variants of brakes - Type 'A', which I can understand, as it is the 'usual' type of one-side double-shoe system.  However types 'B' & 'C' are less than clear in their application.  As there are two etches of each - both with different-sized locartor pegs, I take it these were twin-side/single shoe applications, OR were they used in conjunction on both sides (i.e. one wheel having a type 'B' and the other having a type 'C' - which is feasible given the peg locators).

I've checked all the usual sources but cannot find any answer either model (or preferably) prototype.

Any assistance gratefully received.

Regards

Ian

(PS - 'blow by blow account' is to follow (you have been warned!).

Don't worry chaps, that hand piece never goes anywher near a patient.

 

Tim

Too busy using it for model-making??

Not a question, but I couldn't help a smile at reading this on the Model Railway Club website.

 

"We are back at Alexandra Palace with a stand at the LMEE on 20-22nd January 2017. Our theme this year is "Electric Power", which includes a section of our new OO gauge model of Ingatestone which has 25kV overhead electricifcation."

 

I've heard of prototype fidelity but that's going a bit far.

Reminds me of the layout which had BIG signs hanging from the front fascia - "DANGER - 12,000 MILLIVOLTS" !  Not much finger-poking there....

Various contributors talk about 'industrial strength' cyanos etc.  Any brands/sources??

Regs

Ian

Hi Folks - advice sought!

 

Has anyone tried cutting laminated acrylic with the 'Emblazer' - ie using it to remove the outer layer to reveal a contrast layer beneath??

 

My son's partner wonders if I can create some internal artwork/signage for her shop.

 

Regards

 

Ian

Well, I guess I answered my own question.  First, my thanks to Gavin at Hobarts (https://hobarts.com) who kindly provided me with an 'A5' offcut of a yellow/black sheet of 1.6mm acrylic laminate.

A couple of hours in the workshop produced this...

the figures in the boxes represent power as a percentage/cutting speed in mm/sec (as usual) - only I goofed, and the '2mm/sec' should read '5mm/sec'!

The cross-hatching was set to 45 degrees at 0.2mm, cross-hatched. All were done at a single pass.

The sign was cut at 20%, 10mm/sec.

I see potential here...!

Regards

Ian

There are a number of software packages available - Vectric seems very capable - but you might find something a little cheaper. There are some links in my laser thread below.

 

I'm sure the emblaser is supplied with software which probably works with whatever CAD you're using.

 

Best

Simon

The 'Emblazer' comes with Vectric Cut2D.  I use 'TurboCAD' to create drawings, save them as'.eps' files then import them into CutLaser.  Works for me!

Hi Folks - advice sought!

Has anyone tried cutting laminated acrylic with the 'Emblazer' - ie using it to remove the outer layer to reveal a contrast layer beneath??

My son's partner wonders if I can create some internal artwork/signage for her shop.

Regards

Ian

Well it COULD have been a 2mmSA mug - however it is to the same scale as the model under construction... (Part of a commission - back to my own modelling after 'work' tonight).  It also contains coffee - far too early in the day to consider tea.  I'm only halfway through my third 'perk' load (2 or 3 more to go...)

We did produce some a few years ago which had the 2mm logo on them (not fine bone china unfortunately). We also did some embroidered aprons, wall clocks, mouse mats and other promotional items.

 

I believe that some embroidered clothing (sweatshirts, polo shirts, etc) is planned, and we could probably do some more mugs if the demand was there.

 

Andy

I'm in for a poloshirt and a mug.  I can do without the apron - the wifes' fit perfectly and are mainly in pristine condition...

What's on my workbench? Everything by the looks of it!

-snip-

It all looks a bit pristine right now, but we'll soon put that to rights. You'll note there is still space for the coffee cup.

Which reminds me - isn't it about time we had an Association mug?  Or have I missed something??

Regards

Ian

Its been pretty hot here, temperatures nudging 40's quite often, so its been a bit too hot to sit outside with the laser cutter.. We've also had a few total fire bans due to the high temps and I'm not sure where I would stand on using a laser cutter outside on these days - they don't mention lasers on the Rural Fire Service website!

'Never leave a naked flame unattended'..

Mind you, if you're getting naked flames you're doin' it wrong!

Ah yes, Steve Simms! Tony's lesser known 'alter ego' 

 

About the photos, Ian. In 2mm scale, even more than in larger scales, depth of field is important. The aperture setting needs to be as high as the camera will take it. My ten year old Minolta will go to f8 on the aperture setting and this has turned out to be ok for our scale. Here's an example:

 

010.JPG

 

Hope this helps

 

David

Re Tony Simms - OOPS - type in haste - repent at lieisure...

The photos were taken with a new macro lens - still playing...

Regards

Ian

Moving on to the upperworks...  The instructions require the modeller to drill 0.3mm holes in the 'splashplate to take the strapping.  I left this 'til later!  I did however CAREFULLY drill out the buffer locations in the pre-marked positions.

Next stage is to fix the end supports (whitemetal) to the baseframe  (whitemetal).  I actually used superglue for this - but a word of warning.  The end stanchions are VERY delicate!  I actually dismembered one whist cleaning it up (and I have to thank Steve Simms, the 'No2 Shopkeeper for a very speedy replacement).  However, I may have a solution - see the end-note.

The half-assembled base frame can now be attached to the etched running gear.

The next stage is to fit the 'splash-plates' over the 'anchor straps'.  I cleared the etched slot with a 0.35mm drill and the process went fairly well - then the anchorstraps have to be bent to 90 deg to lie flat on the splashplate.  At this point I used the pre-exisiting hole in the anchorstrap to drill the hole in the splashplate.  I very quickly learned that the torque associated with the process snapped the end of the anchorstrap!  These were then soldered down with 'Carrs Solder Paste' (no connection!).  The beauty of the paste is that any excess can be removed with a fibreglass brush after the process.

The drawback with this method is that things like pin-vices and fibreglass pens are working very close to those delicate stanchions!

Still, I got the job done, and the unit is now very nearly ready for a swim in 'nickel-black' - after visiting a certain stand at the Southampton Show tomorrow!).

Now a recommendation.  If I make any more of these little beauties, I will leave the end stanchions off until I've fixed the baseplate etc to the underframe.  This would also allow the option of making a much firmer soldered connection.  Right  -just the V-hangers  and brake levers to fix....

Regards

Ian

nice work I find it easier to add the wheel bearings while the etch is flat 

 

Gin is very good for blisters taken internally  

 

NIck

Nick - I'm always loathe to do that in case it interferes with the folding process - although having aquired a 'Hold & Fold' those fears are receding!  They actually wern't too difficult - I think it took about 20 minutes to do all twelve.  The beauty of batch-building.  Hick, hick (that works too!)