lennie

Has anyone got one of these units ? if so would appreciate an opinion warts n all.

Thanks.

As you have tried other decoders with the same result, it would suggest to me that the fault is in the unit.

How you find it i haven't a clue, except have a probe around the wiring could well be an intermittent break or a dry joint. Good Luck. 

As you can see things can get complicated, and maybe expensive.

From my point of view who doesn't have the knowledge electronic wise I went this way.

using Train-Tech projects. 

As a previous comment, Fully Automatic.

Rather than go into how, have a look at their website, look under Tips.

Find the one that features. Lights & Tail Light using an Inspection coach.

Thanks to all you guys for responding. Time to get tools etc together.

Have obtained both ians books on Chassis & Body  building. 

Expect  not to soon though

15 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

If the K's wheels are "nasty" it may simply be corrosion, which can be often be removed by fine sanding. Missing parts is another matter, small items can often be replaced from other suppliers, but if the boiler or running plate aren't there its a bit more tricky!

 

You can't really go wrong with Romford wheels. Despite their reputation, DJH kits aren't always as simple as they might be. Interesting comment by Mike Morley. A good starting point for you might be the STD 5 tender.

 

John.  Thats what i thought of doing first. No one yet has advised me of Gap Filling & what's best to use. Any ideas. Thanks.

John. Have abandoned the Keyser Kit, bits missing, & the wheels are nasty. 

I also have 2 DJH Kits. ( Again Free )  BR STD Class 4 2-6-4 Tank.

BR STD Class 5 4-6-0.  Both appear complete. + they have Romford Wheels.

About to make a start on my first Kit. So have questions for this group.

I am fine with soldering.

Its sticking White Metal ???  I am told Super Glue is fine ??

What about gap filling ?   What is best in practice. Poppys Chassis jig looks to be able to do the job  to put it together.

How do I work out which one. 

The Loco is a Keyser kit. ( Gift by the way) so not expensive to make a mistake. 

4mm.  6 Coupled.  Tank.  

I am sure you are going to ask me questions await with interest I

As already been said. It's your railway wire it to suit you. 

Just remember whatever 2 colour you use for wiring the track from the power bus dont use these 2 colours for anything else.

Interesting reply when you said  . I do it without thinking about it.  Well, so do i with my 511 & 611.

Bit like driving a car.

I must agree the 511 did have problems, most sorted with the 611.

I wait with interest when Taunton Controls produce the forthcoming Ambassador.

From what I can gather it wont have a number prefix. IE. 711

Interesting comments. How different then to find an ID with other command stations anyone.

CV8 is the key so to speak.   With the 511 its the button press sequence that gives the decoder ID.

Point - Loco  8   Enter Right.  

I know you can read the manufacturer ID of a decoder by pressing the appropriate buttons on the 511.

Anyone know how, cant find it in the manual. 

I did know how, but memory fails.

Dont forget to set CV6 once you are happy with CV5 setting. Can't find my chart, but I think it's finding a % of CV 5 and using that value for CV6.  Personally I use 40%

There is a Upgraded 511 to 611 on ebay right now. All manuals etc Plus a 622 remote. Bidding at 99p at the moment.

Dont forget to ask IS IT BACKLIT.

I would suggest when searching for a Backlit Screen on ebay make sure you ask the seller IS THE SCREEN BACKLIT.

Beware of those sellers who have no idea of what there selling, or selling on behalf of someone else who is 6ft under.

Always best to phone Graham with help and assistance.

Hello. Clive. So what's your question ?

Can't give you a positive answer, but, might be worth checking the Back to Back of ALL WHEELS as a starting point.

From my previous post. Is it possible to bond/glue Plasticard to card. ?

Intend Kitbashing a Metcalf Kit.

Thanks Guys excellent advice & tips. Will try not be a Morton. (Sorry Moron.)

Going to be using this product for the first time. Question is, How do you cut it & what with ?.

I think it best to give more info on this Loco. Who made it ?

Also dismantle it see whats inside, you may then get some replies.

Thinking of using Kds to couple these coaches. Thoughts / Comments appreciated.

OO. Hornby & Bachmann.

Thanks Guys. Will attempt to do as you say at the WE, only time I am allowed to play with my trains.

She is only 5ft 2 BUT.

I have a Loco with factory fitted sound. Hornby TTS.  F1 is the only sound I can get.

I did a re-set to default, not made any differance.

The Loco itself does work.

Any Thoughts?

PS. Loco to Tender is by plug & Wire.

The myth is that the modification is to make them DCC friendly. The modification makes them more electrically friendly - DC or DCC.

 

Cheers,

Mick

Wonder why  Peco dont do it anyway ?