Jump to content
 

Lissadell

Members
  • Posts

    123
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Lissadell

  1. That’s brilliant - thank you for sharing. I remember Mark the curator showing me round the exhibits at Cultra and your photos of Drew’s locos brings it all back. I’d forgotten the name of the place in Enniskillen, though I remember it is up the road past the Cathedral on the right. I “converted” several of Fred’s locos to standard “two rail electric” operation - perhaps one or two of them found their way to Headhunters? Is there a PPs around? - if so, it’s likely my design and build. sorry, must stop, have really hijacked this thread. I apologise to the original poster. Adrian
  2. Slightly off topic but related to the note above re Mr Fry’s use of actual GSR green when painting the model. Many years ago I was lucky enough to spend some time with Fred Graham in Belfast. I always thought he was something of a pioneer in his modelling activity, with a large collection of scratchbuilt GN locos (clockwork powered!) and stock. He did pretty much everything himself including the painting. His materials for the latter included a tin of “actual GNR blue” - not sure whether he got it from someone at the sheds near him or whether Paddy at Dundalk workshops might have been the source. Anyway, he swore by the stuff, though I did hear comments from other quarters that maybe it was a little dark on a 7mm scale model. My memory is a bit hazy now but I think, after his death, Fred’s collection was dispersed amongst a number of modellers. This, in contrast to Drew’s collection of similar vintage, which I think (though I could be wrong) lives in a glass case at Cultra. Apologies for wandering from the original topic - it was just that note about the use of actual paint on a model and the scaling issues it may present. Adrian
  3. Thanks very much for the update - good to know Ian’s fine! Adrian
  4. The website seems to have been closed for quite some time. Does anyone know if Ian is okay? I have had several trades with the Junction Box over the years and have always been very pleased. Thanks Adrian
  5. I bought a DCC ready Hornby Terrier recently and fitted it with a Zimo MX617F ............ all working fine. However, a few days ago I came across another “good as new” Terrier that was factory fitted DCC at a good price, so I bought it. Problem: it is not the smoothest performer I’ve ever seen when starting and at slow speed. Checking out the supported CV, it does not seem to have the CV2/capability of the 617F. Short of replacing with my preferred option, is there anything I could do to improve things with the 7150? Thank you Adrian
  6. Thank you Nick. Well done spotting (and remembering) that last comment in the article you referred me to! regards Adrian
  7. I read recently that the bunker of 32678 is to be replaced - reverting to the extended IOW type it carried in early post war years. Photos of the loco in the 50s show it in this condition and are in contrast to the form of bunker arrangement it has carried in more recent times. I wonder could a Forum member advise the date this bunker change took place? Then, the follow on, intriguing .................why did the change take place? I guess another question might be, did this type of modification happen to other Terriers? My only source of info is the Middlemass book - maybe the answer is within those pages, but if it is, it has eluded me so far! Regards Adrian
  8. Great idea - thanks Wickham!
  9. I didn’t either and I’ve been in several times! The door at the back seems to be to more shelves etc but is marked “staff only” I think. Where is the cellar access point - as I say, I’ve visited before so can visualise the internal layout. Intrigued to hear Mallard! regards Adrian
  10. I wonder, could I revisit this thread on the H class ............. I’ve just bought a new model and have been doing the usual running in business. It does sway somewhat - perhaps a combination of less than true wheel mounting and also the design ie. a lot of chassis extending beyond the rear axle? Maybe the real thing rolled a bit?? Anyway, I’m now getting round to actually running the model on track and have encountered a couple of other issues. One, mentioned previously by other folk, involves the bogie mounted pickups - in particular, only one of the four actually bears on a wheel! Not to worry, I can fix that. The other issue is more interesting ................ judging by the sound of the model running with/without the body fitted, I wondered if there wasn’t some unplanned internal contact when the complete loco runs. Looking at the chassis, I was drawn to the “exposed” flywheel that must be very close to the body when all is assembled. Further investigation revealed a possible, incompletely formed circular mark on the inside surface directly behind the smokebox door. My thoughts are that a little gentle scraping of the plastic might enlarge clearances and hence be a solution. However, I wondered first if any colleagues might have experienced similar circumstances and might be able to comment. regards Adrian
  11. I have just purchased one of these locos and want to fit a suitable decoder. There isn’t a lot of room in there! After searching the only chip I’ve found being mentioned Is the TCS DP2X-UK There must be lots of these popular models running under digital control, so I wondered if I could draw on members experience. I would be very grateful to hear recommendations for small 8pin Direct chips that have been fitted successfully to these Hornby Wainwright class H locos Regards Adrian PS perhaps I should say that I am looking for a non sound installation
  12. Thanks Graham Followed your guidance this morning - all good and the project is progressing Best regards Adrian
  13. Is it possible to access the interior of these coaches without damaging anything? I was thinking about installing a few passengers ................... Looking at the assembly on my Brake Compo, much of the underframe does not seem to be fixed to the body - it is very easy to “separate” the two. However, the big issue ..................... the underframe is fixed at each end! Unfortunately not with screws and my experience of these plastics is that they aren’t too forgiving of stress. So I wondered if anyone had found their way into these bodies without dire consequences? Holding my breath here .................. practice for when someone tells me to twist and lever!!! Thanks Adrian
  14. Space constraints prevent me from using the BH points. I have searched the forum for suitable photos which show code 75 points connected to BH track - but without success. I’m sure they’re there, I just haven’t turned them up! So, could I ask please, what are colleagues opinions on a mix of the two given the sleeper differences? Does the result jar or is it tolerable? Also, if a location for suitable photos should spring to mind, I would be very grateful to be directed there. Thanks in anticipation Adrian
  15. In the thread “Heljan 0 gauge 05” Brian Daniels shows his painting work on the loco. I tried to contact him about one feature he illustrates but haven’t had any success. So I wondered if I could ask members ................ In the painting photos I refer to, there are two which show the roof removed. May I ask, does the roof just clip off or is a more robust approach required? Thank you for any guidance Adrian
  16. In the thread for the Heljan 0 gauge 05 shunter, you show a couple of photos with the roof removed.

    could you tell me how you did this please?

    remove the roof, that is, not take the photo!!

     

    thanks

     

    Adrian

    1. brian daniels

      brian daniels

      They just pull off, glued on with Chinese glue so shouldn't be too difficult. Sod's law you bet it's the one time they did something right!

       

      Brian

  17. As it’s now a year or two down the line since these models appeared, I wondered if owners might comment on any issues that might have arisen, specifically in terms of running quality. I think I read somewhere that some classes, though not the 05, have experienced gear problems, but this is not something I have personally experienced, so it may well be unfounded. I resurrected the thread because I am contemplating purchasing an 05 and thought there might be an opportunity to ask members opinions, based their experience of operating the model for some time. Best regards Adrian
  18. Thank you again for all the helpful suggestions that have been posted.
  19. Thank you - keep the suggestions coming! Sharing ideas based on experience is really valuable adrian
  20. I’d be very interested to learn of colleagues’ approach to a base colour (prior to weathering) other than the commonly quoted “black” For example, for some early BR wagons the suggestions one might commonly see usually refer to grey body/black under frame. Perhaps the grey isn’t too bad as a start for weathering, but I wonder if matt black as a start isn’t a bit of a killer? It would be great to hear of successful alternatives - acrylic or enamel, military or railway ......... just so long as they’re currently available! Perhaps I should mention I’m UK based. Thanks for any recommendations
  21. Photos of unfitted goods trains in LNE days show side lamps fitted to the body of vans, eg as on a Toad D These same vans appear in BR days with lamp irons fixed to the verandah pillars and the original body fittings removed. Did this change take place before nationalisation or was it confined to post 1948? I wonder, as the derived BR standard brakes (with detail differences to the Toad D) began to appear, whether details such as the lamp positions were applied to earlier stock as they went through workshops. Could then, some older vans still carry body mounted side lamps for a time through the early BR years? Thanks Adrian
  22. The half hard nickel silver sheet spec (my earlier reply) is, I believe, NS/CW409J/HH 0.55mm nominal can be between 0.53 and 0.57mm 0.7mm ( the stuff you don’t want to tackle with hand tools!) is within an accepted band of 0.68 - 0.72mm A little guillotine and some multi tool (bend and roll) like the mini ones Warco do, wouldn’t go amiss......... However, as the previous writer hints, maybe you’re letting yourself in for a lot of hard work scratchbuilding! I can’t help thinking a bit of time spent learning just the rudiments of CAD could generate a few etches quickly. You could then use your time productively in assembling something from the parts you’ve drawn. If you’re tidy (and thinking small) it’s surprising what you can squeeze onto an A4 sheet - that won’t cost the earth to tool up and print etches from. You could even do a combination of scratchbuilt simple parts and home drawn, etched, more awkward parts. Dunno if that makes sense? Adrian
×
×
  • Create New...