Cozy2168

36 minutes ago, Pete the Elaner said:

Green to the far motor terminal, red to the near one. If you connect them the wrong way around, you loco will run backwards.

The white wire goes to a lug on the bogie chassis to pick up power from the track.

 

It would be easier to colour code wiring using the standard convention of red, black, orange & grey. This makes it easier to troubleshoot & help others.

Like many, I just used to connect "red & black to the track, orange & grey the other way" then fiddle if the direction was wrong, but after learning the following, I get them right first time every time:

 

Assuming the loco is going forwards (obvious with a steam loco, fan forward with a single engine diesel, pan to the rear with a single pan electric. I have no idea for a twin engine/pan loco 😁 --- with a Hornby diesel or electric, the motor is at the No1 end).

On DC, the right hand rail is positive so for forwards, red to the right rail's pickup & black to the left. To the motor: orange takes over from red & grey takes over from black. Pin 1 on an 8 pin decoder is often marked with a 1.

 

 

Many thanks, Pete

Hi all

i was gifted a couple of locos sometime ago and now found the time to get them up and running.

I have not tinkered for a good few years and this particular class 47 came without the wiresconnected to the power bogie.

The white and red taped wires I presume go to the 2 lugs on the facing side of motor but not sure where the green taped wire needs to go.

I have attached ref pics and the tape was attached to help with description.

many thanks

paul

A TTS decoder is just a 8249 with sound bits tacked on, so the same motor control, which isn’t the best, or with much in the way of adjustment either. Would be best if you could find/try another decoder type/make. I am sure a Zimo MX600 @ £20 would do the job without issue although not being able to make any cv adjustments at all is far from ideal since no two motors react to any decoder in exactly the same way.

 

Izzy

Just an update zimo chip arrived today and put it in and now works fine problem solved. A lesson learned won’t be buying anymore Hornby chips.

Once again thanks for all your advice much appreciated.

Paul

A TTS decoder is just a 8249 with sound bits tacked on, so the same motor control, which isn’t the best, or with much in the way of adjustment either. Would be best if you could find/try another decoder type/make. I am sure a Zimo MX600 @ £20 would do the job without issue although not being able to make any cv adjustments at all is far from ideal since no two motors react to any decoder in exactly the same way.

 

Izzy

hi I would check the connections to the speaker to check they have not come detached. if ok then disconnect I wire to the speaker and with a test meter you should get approx. 8 ohms across it.I have had a TTS speaker on a class 47 go completely open cct and sent for a better quality speaker from Digitrains ,they would advise the best one for you .

 

 

hope that helps

Dave

Hi Dave

Speaker was fine it appears to be something wrong with the chip so hay ho at least I can still use the loco just no sound.

Regards

Paul

hi I would check the connections to the speaker to check they have not come detached. if ok then disconnect I wire to the speaker and with a test meter you should get approx. 8 ohms across it.I have had a TTS speaker on a class 47 go completely open cct and sent for a better quality speaker from Digitrains ,they would advise the best one for you .

hope that helps

Dave

Hi

Thanks for the swift reply. That’s answered my question straight away.

Cheers

Hi

My TTS sound has stopped working on one of my chips I was transferring it to another loco.

The chip still works fine but has no sound.

Is there any way of test it. With say a test meter.

Thanks in advance.

I would suggest that if you have a PC/laptop and are happy using them a reasonable and fairly cheap way to a system that can do virtually anything is via a Sprog 2 or 3 and JMRI. It does mean the laptop is the base station along with the Sprog, and the throttles are on-screen unless you have a Android/i-phone which can be used as wi-fi throttles, but with Decoder Pro (part of the JMRI suite), you have perhaps the easiest way to program/adjust any decoder.

 

Izzy

I’ve invested in a Zimo Mx600 chip to see if it works if not i needed another chip for another loco.

I’ve done a bit of searching regarding the sprog 2 which seems just what I’m looking for at the moment as I have plans on moving my layout from the garage into the loft in the near future so would like to invest more on a better controller at a later date.

Just one thing about the sprog I would like to ask as I can’t find much info about it there’s a version called the nano will this do the same thing allowing cv values to be changed etc.

Thanks again for your help

Upgrading from the Select is probably the best move he could make.

A TTS decoder is just a 8249 with sound bits tacked on, so the same motor control, which isn’t the best, or with much in the way of adjustment either. Would be best if you could find/try another decoder type/make. I am sure a Zimo MX600 @ £20 would do the job without issue although not being able to make any cv adjustments at all is far from ideal since no two motors react to any decoder in exactly the same way.

 

Izzy

Thanks for that answer just one other question in response to your answer.

Would it be possible to have CV values changed by the tech guy at my local shop and then used ok on my layout.

Thanks again

Thanks for your replies the two chips I tried were both Hornby first was a TTS sound chip the other was a Hornby R8249.

As I already stated both had worked fine in sane loco before I converted to the new motor and still work fine in other locos now.

Regarding changing the CV values I am unable to do this as I only have a select controller.

Thanks

Again

Hi to all first time posting on the group.

I have recently converted a Lima class 33 motor to a new CD type motor I purchased from Diesel trains.

This was my first attempt at any internal work on a loco as looked simple enough to do.

All went well and was quite straight forward, but I’m having a problem with loco running with a DCC chip in, it runs absolutely fine at all speeds on Anologue but when first moving with a chip in it judders.

The chip was the original one I had fitted to the loco that was already converted to DCC.

I have tried another chip in another loco and also the 33s original chip in another loco and runs fine.

I have contacted Diesel trains about problem as was stated runs fine with DCC but have not got back to me as yet.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Paul