Graham Radish

Ive been thinking about this for a while, i was thinking about doing a small end to end layout with the OO gauge stock at the bottom and N scale at the top, trying to mimic distance if you know what i mean.

Any thoughts on this?

Cheers.

On 28/10/2022 at 16:43, Torper said:

Hakko FX-888D, 70W, temperature control 50° - 450°C.  An excellent highly thought of iron (I've got one!), but not cheap.  FWIW 50° is too low to do anything useful - I reckon you should be able to do most whitemetal soldering jobs at 200° provided you're quick and I wouldn't really want to go below 150° in any event.

 

DT

An iron that goes that low in temp is a bit pointless really, i agree.

Ok, thanks for the info guys very helpful

Im just putting together a PECO N Gauge platform and ive noticed that the ends of the platforms taper inwards at the end is this correct for modern platforms? or does the end of a typical platform just go straight down to ground level like in the second picture where ive added the black lines?

Cheers.

On 15/10/2022 at 19:49, Esmedune said:

I really researched this a year or so ago and got this one.

I really liked it, I wanted a headband, as glasses type either slip down or dig in. This complete loop was comfortable. The chargeable USB light was good, but did not hold a charge for more than a day. However after several months the headband broke at those two weak pinned hinges. It would also loosen and droop as the white module was quite beefy.

I then tried these...

Absolutely useless. Apart from each light requiring three watch batteries, the jewellers look lenses are meant to be mere millimeters away from the thing you are looking at. Just how you see jewellers using them when they are looking at stones, they have the subject right in their face, so not the best for modelling.

So I bought the Toolzone set as posted by cypherman above. The headband works, but gets a bit uncomfortable over time, but if I loosen it, it slips down. It lacks any real padding and grip.  The light is pointless and the batteries in the visor again adds weight and drags it down.

I am now looking at this set.

It appears to be a more modern take on my original and no longer has the hinges that failed on the originals. However it also lacks the padding. Another negative is the need for 3x AAA batteries in the visor, adding weight and limited lifespan, but  for £12.45 on eBay, I may give it a punt.

As for having a good light, yes, that is a given and mine cost me £125, but you still need directional fill-in lighting for the best illumination of what you are working on.

This is the one i had, its horrible, makes your head sweat and is very uncomfortable

I tried a head magnifier, damn it was bloody uncomfortable

What you DO need for modelling: COFFEE, PATIENCE, RESEARCH

What you DON'T need for modelling: A NAGGING WIFE

An adjustable temp 48w silverline iron is my recommendation, you can get ultrafine tips for it too, mines been brilliant.

Here

On 20/03/2022 at 13:19, DCB said:

Hi   Is that your bedroom, a spare bedroom with bed, Spare bedroom/ junk room or Railway Room.
We have a layout in a spare room with a bed which hasn't been used for sleeping since we built the layout on it 15 years ago, but which houses my photocopier and our Parish Council records.  Dust is pretty minimal compared to that in a live slept in Bedroom as we keep the curtains closed and the door shut and its really a non issue. Just a bit of free weathering.  Our bedroom however is a different matter and everything gets dusty. 
Opening the window is the exact opposite of what I would recommend. Keep it dark.

 

Its the spare bedroom yea, its only a small room really but ideal for the layout and my dartboard on the opposite side, ill get some of that decorators plastic sheet and maybe make a canopy out of some 1" x !" timber i have lying around

Double sided tape

Cover the frame with double sided tape, then cut out the un needed tape with a scalpel on your cutting mat, peel off the tapes backing then drop the glazing into place.

Dont risk glues on glazing, most of them are corrosive, and one simple mistake will ruin everything - a good quality 3M double sided tape will be mega strong, with an even stronger bond than superglue

For a professional looking glass, buff the glazing with PEEK metal polish first.

Maybe a small ultrasonic cleaner, these things have a ton of uses like this.

Hello, i have a couple of rolls of embossed wallpaper left over when decorating my bathroom ceiling, i was wondering if anyone here would think it was a bad idea to put it on my 5x3ft baseboard as a sort of textured ground (painted brown and green)

this is the stuff, its like a fine textured finish: Anaglypta Kinver

Cheers.

Yea i have, the motor runs perfect, but the sound is dead.

Funny thing is there wasnt any magic smoke, but yea thanks for the link, ill look in to it.

Hello,

Wondering if there was somewhere local (weston-super-mare) i could get my loksound5 chip repaired, the sound has stopped working due to a short.

Cheers.

Hello,

I have my OO gauge setup completed but would like some advice on keeping it as dust free as possible as its in a bedroom, does anyone have any ideas about this?

Cheers.

Hello again, could someone tell me what the correct tool to use is for good clean cuts of the rails? ive tried several types of cutters with pretty poor results.

Cheers.

Thanks folks!

I have train lines right outside my house and looking at the real thing and comparing the sleeper distances to be honest they look pretty similar, i must admit i do like the look of this track the more i look at it.

I would be surprised if it is still trading

Don't want to sound cynical, but for a website that sells items this high priced it is extremely out of date and a mess to navigate with no detailed images on anything, adobe Flash lost support 2 years ago

Hello, a while ago i accidentally bought 6 lengths of PECO code 83 "north American" concrete sleeper flex track, now should i sell it or keep it? 

Will code75/100 points/trackage connect to it ok?

Cheers.

You might want to have a look on ebay for some desks, i use 2 of these screwed together for my n gauge layout, they are metal framed with height adjustment screws on the legs, theyre very strong tables with perfect loco running noise rejection, the top is 30mm thick, could save a lot of headaches:

Just a suggestion hope it helps someone.

Computer Home Office Desk Corner Wooden Desktop Table PC Study Workstation | eBay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Computer-Home-Office-Desk-Corner-Wooden-Desktop-Table-PC-Study-Workstation/303732047432?hash=item46b7d73e48:g:sCYAAOSwSpNfzUPE

B&Q do the first 20 cuts for free

This is the only reason why i never use those peco motors, they sound like gunfire, if the tortoise or dcc concept digital ip's are fitted properly you can hardly hear a thing.

What i do is add silicone sealant then screw them to the baseboard half way to make a gap, once the silicone has set i remove the screws then theres hardly any noise.

Hello everyone,

I've created this thread so you good people can post your experiences with any Ipad DCC controller software you use and how you use it, also to help others, give advice and to keep everything in one place for Ipad software.

Cheers!

Oh awesome thanks!