paul9415

Hi there, I wonder if anyone can help me out with a set of building instructions for a 0 gauge LMS 7F Fowler 0-8-0 plastic kit {no Name} supplied as several flat sheets? TIA

Hi Jason,many thanks for that

Hi there,

I am  looking to build  in 0 gauge & searching for the outline plans for LMS 7F 0-8-0 loco & tender & I am sure they appeared in a copy of the Railway Modeller back in the day,along with 4F 0-6-0. Can anyone help me out with the month & year? TIA 

Hi Nick,

I was looking for something else ( usually the way for me) when I came across your page-what some unusual   & wonderfully modelled wagons! I know it was posted a while ago but I must ask whether You have any remaining etches for sale .

Kind Regards

Paul Morgan

On 16/06/2019 at 08:35, Skinnylinny said:

With the Photon, I have been able to print Stroudley (26 foot) carriage bodies in one piece. I would reckon on doing bogie coaches in at least two parts, and glueing them together. My next projects are some LSWR bogie carriages. I'm still figuring out the best orientation to print parts, to avoid support marks on visible surfaces while minimising warping/risk of parts not adhering to the print bed.

I can highly recommend joining the Facebook group "Anycubic Photon Printer Owners"  ( https://www.facebook.com/groups/AnycubicPhoton/ )if you're on Facebook - there is a very very active and helpful community there with a huge wealth of knowledge. If you have a question, someone will almost certainly have asked it before and had at least half a dozen replies!

Regarding the level of detail that can be produced with the Photon, I have been absolutely delighted - this wagon print is at 4mm scale, and the rivets and other details have come out beautifully, being drawn as 0.2mm diameter and 0.2mm depth.

 

 

The Stroudley full-brake carriage here has quite chunky (!) handrails (0.5mm) but I have seen these successfully printed (albeit slightly not-straight) at 0.3mm. The slight stepping at the bottom of the carriage side is due to the turnunder and the carriage being printed flat on the bed - had I printed at an angle it would likely not have occurred. I'm especially delighted with the solebar bolt-heads.

 Lovely work!, amazing what detail You can achieve .My major concern I have is how fragile is the resin  re  fitting  brass bearings  & springing the wheelsets  in & out ?

Firstly I think the suction Mike is talking about is that between between the exposed layer of resin & the FEP .If you have printed a large flat area on the build plate then there is a large area of suction as the build plate lifts away from the FEP which might be causing the distortion.My other thought is if the in the photograph is going against the building , is being weathered & in N scale -how noticeable will it be ?

Just now, paul9415 said:

My query is how easy is it  to fit the wheelsets & bearings? Obviosly from the pictures you can,but the resin being  more brittle than. plastic,I wondered how well it flexs,or are there tricks/tips to do it? Also what minimum thickness do you recommend for your plank sides/ends? TIA

In my haste, I forgot to add ,what  superb work & I will be following this  thread with great interest

On 26/10/2020 at 16:37, Skinnylinny said:

I say, those are rather tasty! It's nice to see more 3d printed pre-grouping Southern stock. @TurboSnail of this parish has done some very nice SECR wagons and an LBSC Open A, and I've drawn up a few LSWR ones too, both for the Photon:



I've gone for printing NEM pockets on my wagons, using the dimensions found here: http://www.doubleogauge.com/standards/couplings.htm and they seem to work well for me, although I make the coupling slot a little bigger (by about 0.2mm in height and width) to compensate for light bleed in the Photon.

My query is how easy is it  to fit the wheelsets & bearings? Obviosly from the pictures you can,but the resin being  more brittle than. plastic,I wondered how well it flexs,or are there tricks/tips to do it? Also what minimum thickness do you recommend for your plank sides/ends? TIA

On 09/11/2019 at 11:56, DaveyH said:

The pcb arrived eventually and I had a first stab at milling a frame.   The result was quite good...any imperfections being a result of my lack of cad ability rather than the mill which appeared to cut the frame exactly as designed and, perhaps more surprisingly given the dainty nature of the MF70, exactly to size.

 

Here is the result.

 

 

The pcb was cut with a 1mm end mill of Chinese origin at a spindle speed of 8,000 rpm and a feed rate of 100 mm per minute.

 

Davey

Hi Davey, thats looking  excellent,how have you progressed it ?I'm interested to know what scale you are working in &  how you have fitted frame spacers & motor mount & is the copper clad all over  or in tracks ? Cheers

On 31/12/2020 at 12:06, Nick Holliday said:

Sorry to rain on your parade of excellent models, but have you got the brake gear on the four plank correct? The left-hand brake lever was introduced in the 1880's as the result of a Board of Trade injunction that all wagons should have brakes operable from both sides.  The commonest solution was to add a left-hand lever and a cross rod connected to the normal pair of brakes on the other side. The GNR did treat some in this rather knee-jerk way, but while most other companies seemed to have bitten the bullet and either provided sets of brake gear on both side, or introduced a mechanism to reverse the movement, such as the lift-link or the Morton devices, to keep both handles on the right.  The GNR seems to have embraced the left-handed approach more than most, and came up with an unusual scheme, in which single brake blocks were applied to diagonally opposite wheels. Hence the right-handed lever side had a brake block on the left hand wheel, rather as per normal, whilst the left-handed side also had the block on the left hand wheel, almost hidden behind the brake lever, with a central cross rod connecting the pair of brakes. I couldn't find any picture in Tatlow that showed the arrangement on the model. By 1904 the Board of Trade had discovered that the left-hand lever was potentially dangerous, and it was banned, so more orthodox arrangements had to be made, although it did seem to take quite a while before they were eradicated.

Is it possible to move the brake blocks more towards the wheels, as on this one at least it seems to be outside the axleguards?

I have recently come across your blog & am very impressed with your work. & would be interested in purchasing some of your  wagons, vans especially.

Regarding  the left handed brake lever,this was chosen for cheapness as it didnt require extra cost such as clutch  in the Morton system or a lift link for a  second right handed lever, which on an individual wagon might not seem a lot, but when you are talking in terms of 10s of thousands, this soon adds up. However in 1904 the BoT changed the rules that  all the brake handles had to be at the right hand end of the wagon, but , from memory,the companies with 20,000+  wagons were given  I believe 10 years to convert them  & then another 10 years   because of World War 1., so in many cases the near & life expired left handed wagons were simply scrapped rather than being converted.So I imagine, there were probably still a number of them still running in the early grouping years,but most likely in pre-group livery. I hope that helps  

On 11/05/2020 at 21:03, Ark Royal said:

A Bridge Too Far.

 

I have had to change priorities again as i need to finish the Station Bridge and Footbridge Structure for Eridge.

 

A long long time ago ( in a far off galaxy) when i was just starting out with Fusion 360 i produced a design for the station footbridge. I then plumped to have the front and rear plynths and baggage shute printed by Shapeways in Fine Ultra Detail. Amazed at how they came out and struggling to seperate the staircases from the gallery i then decide to have the entire footbridge printed at considerable expense (about the same cost as my Elegoo Printer)  in the same material. To cut a long story short due to some blip the footbridge and gallery end up being 10mm short on the width.

 

Up to now that is where it has stayed. I have since remodelled the Station Bridge structure to accomodate a better system for the removal and transportation of the Station and its footbridge. As the Station Bridge is nearing completion (at long last!) i thought with the 1st litre of resin nearly gone i'd best print some of the items needed to re-map the footbridge for a mix of 3d printing and metal etching.

 

Here is the Station Footbridge CAD 

 

 

The items i decide to print are the front and rear supporting trestles and the baggage shute.

 

Front Support Trestles

 

These were printed with upside down direct to the build plate with no supports, as the upper beams will be hidden by the footbridge.

 

 

Print Time: 2hr 14min 

Cost: £0.15

Electric Cost:  £0.15

Printed 1st time.

 

Rear Support Trestles

 

These again were printed upside down but i had to add supports. I still haven't got to grips with any package that adds supports. Both Chitubox and Prusa added way to many supports and i find it difficult to accurately add them manually. To that end i added them direct in the 3D package before exporting the STL file.

 

 

The weird flat stips on the RH trestle are actually some of my supports to overcome an angled piece of "wood" that supports the baggage shoot. This was floating in mid air prior to adding these for the print.

 

Sprues Removed

 

Print Time: 5hr 30min 

Cost: £0.43

Electric Cost:  £0.39

Printed 1st time.

 

Baggage Shute

 

Again printed with my own supports as the front leg hangs down. 

 

 

Sprue Removed

 

 

Print Time: 1hr 25min 

Cost: £0.12

Electric Cost:  £0.11

Printed 2nd time - failed layer adhesion on bottom surface when printed at design angle.

 

RH Rear Support Trestle and Baggage Shute

 

Items temporarily combined

 

 

 

If only i had the Elegoo way back when i first started this project....

 

Unfortunately the footbridge and gallery way exceed the build plate max volume even when spit to seperate staircsases and gallery. I think at the time i went to shapeways the unit filled their entire machine

 

I'm pleased with all the results i have had with the 1st bottle of resin, i have had a few failures, learnt a lot along the way , Thanks for everyones help.

The bit i love most about owning a 3D printer is the concept that if you want it you can print it and have it ready to use within a matter of hours, makes life so much easier when building structures etc.

 

Mark 

 

Hi Mark, & Others  regarding the question of supports for your prints , if you use chutibox for your slicing there is a free programme  called   anycubic photon file validator  which automatically  search through all the layers looking for & identifying  unsupported parts of your prints  ( see on Youtube - 3D Print Farm -How to Get Near Perfect Prints on your Resin Printer Using This Tool!  which gives a full explanation ) . Hope this helps 

On 03/04/2020 at 20:26, Ark Royal said:

WHAT'S THE POINT

 

How small will the Elegoo print ? Well these are incredibly tiny and yet they still ressemble their prototype parts, sorry about the quality of the images i have found it hard to capture them in focus.

One things for certain , It sure as hell beats making them up from brass frets.

Eridge needs plenty of these along with Facing Point Locks, Stretcher Bars, Tie Bars and all manner of semaphore signalling parts. Not sure whether the "KAG Group members" will like the thought of these but lets kick it off

 

Double Signal Pulley

 

Still attached to the carrier, the small support rods between the pulleys have been clipped off to show that there are indeed 2 pulleys

 

 

 

Just to prove i'm totally insane , there are 7 versions of the above , each with the pulley wheels at a different point of rotation ... MADNESS

 

Single Pulley Wheel

 

 

Point Rodding Compensator

 

 

 

 

And 1 for a Friend

 

Locomotive Oil Lamps (BR/SR)

 

 

I'm not going to individually price these items as per previous posts because quite frankly most are less than 2p for 10 items.

 

Not sure how the design for turnout tie rods, strectcher bars, FPL's  will fair as the difficulty is not impeding the movement of the turnouts. We will see

 

 

Mark 

Superb work, really inspiring- I have ordered  a  Elgoo  Mars resin printer -I need some Southern loco lamps,so could you  advise where to get  a drawing of them, or could you supply me a copy of the stl , thanks 

Hi thereI am considering building  a traverser  with a turntable incorporated, in o gauge , purely for the locos & therefore  only 50- 60 cm long , So the procedure will be  for the train to arrive  behind a  backscene, the loco uncoupled & run  onto the turntable ,loco turned  & then traverser moved to adjoining tracks. Does anyone  have any experience of building one,or where you can find any information on such an arrangement? Many thanks 

On 23/01/2020 at 15:20, Skinnylinny said:

And finally got the printer set up after the house move. First test print is looking promising! Still much detail still to be added yet, and I need to look at the bottom planks of the sides - there should be support bars there which I haven't drawn in yet. Also re-considering how I'm going to do the bufferbeams and solebars, possibly as an L-shaped unit.

 

Hi there , wonderful work on the cattle wagon. couple of questions - how do you create the planking lines- is simply a matter of using a line on your drawing   & how do you  insert wheels- do you drill out the back of the axleboxes, glue in brass bearings  & then attach  the solebar/ axle box to the underside of the body  & then the corresponding one, much as you would do with  a plastic kit? 

On 16/06/2019 at 19:35, Skinnylinny said:

With the Photon, I have been able to print Stroudley (26 foot) carriage bodies in one piece. I would reckon on doing bogie coaches in at least two parts, and glueing them together. My next projects are some LSWR bogie carriages. I'm still figuring out the best orientation to print parts, to avoid support marks on visible surfaces while minimising warping/risk of parts not adhering to the print bed.

I can highly recommend joining the Facebook group "Anycubic Photon Printer Owners"  ( https://www.facebook.com/groups/AnycubicPhoton/ )if you're on Facebook - there is a very very active and helpful community there with a huge wealth of knowledge. If you have a question, someone will almost certainly have asked it before and had at least half a dozen replies!

Regarding the level of detail that can be produced with the Photon, I have been absolutely delighted - this wagon print is at 4mm scale, and the rivets and other details have come out beautifully, being drawn as 0.2mm diameter and 0.2mm depth.

 

 

The Stroudley full-brake carriage here has quite chunky (!) handrails (0.5mm) but I have seen these successfully printed (albeit slightly not-straight) at 0.3mm. The slight stepping at the bottom of the carriage side is due to the turnunder and the carriage being printed flat on the bed - had I printed at an angle it would likely not have occurred. I'm especially delighted with the solebar bolt-heads.

Wonderful work ,do you have the wagons available  for  sale or is possible to obtain a copy of the stl?

On 05/01/2020 at 12:40, Javier L said:

Ive been very fortunate to be able to print the J1 by @BrightonBoi as part of one of his first works.

 

An overall excellent model by him! I cant wait to see what he comes out with in the future!

 

Cheers!

Hi  Javier,I would be really interested  in as example  as well, if possible  and  what is the other loco  in the background? 

Hi Brighton Boi , loving your work so far ,especially the H16 to fit the  Hornby s15 chassis . Regarding  drawings , as well as  trainmad 98, there was a small booklet published  by a chap called LeLeux  sometime  ago listing all the drawings of locos, wagons, coaches  & all assorted railway items ,such as bridges,goods sheds, etc   in the pre 2000 model railway magazines- many of which I have  & will supply you with copies  if I have them. 

Keep up the Great work

On 25/01/2010 at 10:10, clarkea1 said:

I've used 3D printing as well. Off the machine, the parts do come out rather grainy, with some layering evident (this is inherent in the way the machines work, and a lot better than it used to be!). However, a blast of primer followed by some rubbing down usually gives a good surface finish. It does, I am finding, mean that you're better off leaving off rivet detail and adding it afterwards (unless you want some really fiddly rubbing down to do!) I've recently had a couple of wagon bodies prototyped as a test exercise (there's a pic of the raw body on my blog, will put more as the finishing and chassis construction progresses). I'm currently working on the CAD for a loco body for an industrial shunter (below), and will let you know how things go!

 

 

In terms of software, something like Google Sketchup is capable of producing the required files. There are other free packages available, but you tend to get less errors and issues with a high end CAD package. That said, if I didn't have access to one (Solidworks) in work, I certainly wouldn't shell out the couple of thousand it costs!! In terms of time, I find I can model something complex on the computer in a fraction of the time it would take me to scratchbuild it. Of course, it's not as much fun, but there's still a fair bit of work involved in the finishing and detailing process.

 

Apologies for hi-jacking the original thread, but there seemed to be a lot of interest in the technology, so I thought it would be worth sharing my experiences.

 

Alastair

Regarding using free CAD packages Fusion 360 is quite  powerful & if it is for non-commercial use you can get it for free + a GREAT HELP is there are many  Fusion360 tutorials on You Tube!

As suggested by Patriot Class  study  ready to run models  & also bear in mind allowing sufficient thickness  to give  strength, accessibility to  surfaces  if they need cleaning up or sanding to give a better finish  &  allowing room for motor mechanisms  &  possibly weights  to increase adhesion , Try some test prints  for evaluation .Hope that helps- would be interested in what steam era locos you intend  to print

Hi Mike

A very basic  question, how do you arrange the holes in the side so you can push the compass point through to make the rivets on the strapping,

I have place a guide line to keep them in line ,but cant get the circle tool to make  the holes consistent  ,& I have tried control D to duplicate ,but with no success, can you advise?

I would also like to thank You ,Jason & the other Mike  &  everybody else who has contributed on Inkscape  & the silhouette cutter, it is a marvellous body of work  & much appreciated-long may it continue 

On ‎28‎/‎09‎/‎2016 at 16:14, MikeTrice said:

This is a quick proof of concept to show how I do rivets. The basic technique is to produce two layers of 10 thou, one to have the rivets embossed into, the other to act as a rivetting template. With careful thought the rivetting template can form part of the final build.

 

So taking a wagon as an example my intention here is to form the main sides from 4 laminations of 10 thou with a fifth layer of 10 thou strapping.

 

For the outside layers here I have a planked (engraved) side with the rivet positions cut out by the cutter then drilled 0.5mm. The rectangle to the left is the corner plate:

 

The corner plate has been welded in place and I have opened up the holes for one of the door straps. Note that to aid positioning when engraving the planking I also engraved an outline for the strap:

 

For the inner side one piece is engraved and the other spot marked for the rivet positions.:

 

The two inner sides are glued together then the rivets pressed out from behind using an old school compass with the work piece resting on a self sealing cutting board (I should have removed cutting burrs first, but forgot):

 

For the outer side the door strap was fixed in place using the outline as a guide and put aside for the solvent to harden. Finally the rivets were pressed in from the back again with the compass (again forgetting to de-burr):

 

I then laminated the inner and outer side together completely forgetting that I intended to have 4 layers + strapping so ended up with 3 layers + strapping.

 

A couple of images showing the side after having a quick coat of primer:

 

 

What I have done here may seem odd, fixing the strapping first with solvent rather than embossing in their own right. I have found in the past that the enbossing process can distort the strapping (typically bulging where the rivets go). This way the strapping tends not to do this.

 

I would also benefit by taking off the sharp tip of the compass against some wet and dry.

Hi there , I have recently bought  some   Cambrian 16'6  P O  wagons   & wondered if   anyone  has  information  & photos on the P O companies    &  their liveries  on which this model was based .Many thanks 

Hi Rob, great w ork again! Question-how do you create the bolt head detail on strapping , etc

TIA  Paul 

Hi people, Am I being dumb, but when inkscape says to export your drawing as a PNG , where does it go, for after clicking the export button, I have searched all my files ,but cannot find a .png file , (getting very frustrated)  thanks 

Thanks for that, I will certain;y try it out .