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On 24/08/2023 at 07:25, Hal Nail said:

Curiosity duly piqued, I've dug out the photo I recalled in Diesels on the Western Region, Hugh Dady, taken at a very sunny Exeter. It is the same occasion though and says the 58, from Saltley, dragged the completely failed HST all the way from the Birmingham area to Brent, where the 58 itself let go, and was then propelled to Plymouth by the partially revived HST!

I believe that is a younger me window hanging from the back of the first class.

other hearsay I have heard since this day is that 58002 ran out of fuel at South Brent and it was on crew training runs around Birmingham when it was asked to assist, and it would have gone through to Penzance had it not failed.
 

Birmingham was short of power that afternoon D200/40122 also took over a train to Bristol.

Jeff

3 hours ago, Jenny Emily said:

I pulled the little tank out with a pair of needle nose pliers. It looks like it is just glued in place. 

Thanks for that.  Now tanks removed with a lot of twisting from the long nose pliers.   The tanks are glued into the chassis by a small pip of plastic which broke off.    
 

I’m hoping to get away with trimming only the brake pipes and leaving the reservoir pipes.  The couplings I’m planning to glue folded  onto the coupling hook,   They have a habit of getting stuck on the centre lamp iron after inverting the loco, both finely  modelled.

Thanks again 

Jeff 

8 hours ago, 96701 said:

Nope, has me beat so far. If it is screwed  in, the screws can only be under the cab which has the tail light leds on it, so I'm loath to try to remove it. If the tank prevents the loco coupling from running properly, I'll take the buffer beam off again and whip the tank off with my Dremel.

Thanks,  glad it’s not just me

I saw the tiny screws for the buffer beam and didn’t think they would  lead to removal this tank.  Should you really need to take a Dremel to a model that’s designed to run with couplings?  Was it designed to run light engine?
 

Jeff

Duplicate post

So I received my 25155 today ordered via the South Devon Railway model shop, great service.

The model seems looks very nice although some of the body weathering is streaky.  I would like to see an original picture of the loco in this state.   However taking photos for my question below the weight of the weathering looks good for an engine that has been working Clay trains.
 

I have had one head code glass come loose and needs resetting,  luckily fell into my loco maintenance tray,  not the floor.

As usual to fit tension lock couplings to a Heljan diesel you have to trim the air and vacuum brake pipes.   The 3  link coupling looks like it can be hooked over the coupling hook and remain.   However there is a tank behind the left hand buffer (at the end of the red paper clip in the attached pic).   This fouls the coupling for any coupling using the NEM pocket.   Has anyone worked out how to remove this to give the coupling chance to move with the bogie?  
 

Jeff

I have been experimenting with drawing new plans in the updated app.

Much easier and clearer,  and looking much more like a real signal box panel.   Signals can be included in routes (could you do that before??),  but response modules cannot be tied to signals (so that a signal can be placed to red to protect an occupied section ahead).       If this could be done I would be looking to use this app to control my signals,  instead of buying Itrains software.  I’m planning to run trains manually.

The attached screenshot 20 minutes work redrawing part of my layout.   
 

Jeff