Hacksworth_Sidings
-
Posts
517 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Events
Exhibition Layout Details
Store
Posts posted by Hacksworth_Sidings
-
-
1 hour ago, SR71 said:
Spotted this on eBay and thought it might be useful to some on this thread;
Actually looks to have been motorised using the Kitmaster power bogie… I should really pick up another K’master power unit, thinking of tossing one into the German 2-6-2 they produced…
Speaking of… @33C, does your WD 2-10-0 use the tender from that German loco? Just a hunch after looking back through the thread…
-
-
1
-
-
Can’t wait to see the finished result, I’ll have to look into buying one for myself once it’s ready for sale…
-
5 hours ago, Hacksworth_Sidings said:
Need to adjust the quartering for smooth running but it may also just be a case of too much slop and free play in the coupling rods.
Well, it wasn’t the quartering or free play, rather a lack of the latter, the eccentric crank on the left side was creating too much friction as the wheels rotated between the 12 and 6 o clock positions, some adjustments with a pair of pliers have that mostly sorted… All in all, if you want a good 0-4-0 chassis, consider cutting one of these down…
-
2
-
1
-
-
On the topic of cutting down locos… I’ve fixed up my mate’s B12 and Jinty, so the Ivatt is officially mine, and I’ve wasted no time in introducing it to the hacksaw.
Fitted the crank pins to the flanged driver by filing the crank pin bearing out with a triangular, tapered file, both ends until they slid in nicely, bit of loctite to hold them in. Need to adjust the quartering for smooth running but it may also just be a case of too much slop and free play in the coupling rods.
Tender has been cut down already, tender chassis has been glued together but the tender body is still in bits. Haven’t touched the loco body just yet, I want to finish the chassis work on that before I go any further.
-
5
-
2
-
-
Temporarily fitted an X.04, body wouldn’t fit, so I’ve undone the joints I made between the cab and boiler to cut away at the back of the boiler, creating space for the magnet and brush spring, which I’ll cover up with a Belpaire firebox.
-
3
-
-
Whoopsie, someone gave me more hacksaw blades!
Using a spare R1 body and a cut-down Triang/Hornby “08” chassis, going to take the chassis to college and see if I can use the pillar drills to widen the crank pin holes on the non/geared axle to take the brass thread inserts from the original blind drivers.
-
1
-
-
On 06/05/2024 at 12:23, Hacksworth_Sidings said:
Shared on 33C’s Triang Princess thread, but I feel it’ll be suited to a wider audience.
I saw this edited photo back in April 2022 (unsure who made it) of a BR standard class 2, cut down to a 2-4-0 config, after rediscovering it I found a sudden desire to make one for myself… Long story short, I’ve struck a bargain with one of my friends and I’m buying an LMS Ivatt 2MT (one of the old Hornby models with the X.04? X.03?) from him, I’ve got an Ivatt of my own already so whichever is in worse condition will get the hacksaw…
Ivatt acquired…
Part of the deal I have with this friend is that I’d get two other models of his running better (a Hornby B12 and Jinty, both on X.03s) alongside buying the Ivatt, so I’ll get those sorted this weekend, and then work on the 1MT can commence…
-
6
-
-
4 hours ago, 33C said:
Just give 'em the lighter fuel treatment to break the glue joints
Does that not risk damaging the plastic? Then again, I do want to try and improve the running of the Pug…
-
Not really for replacing the motor, but I recently acquired an 8100 (GraFar) with the 2 pole motor and I’m in need of assistance for a repair…
One of the drawbars(?) on the rear of the motor which operates the commutator broke on me as I was trying to adjust, and I’m looking into ways to replace it… Any suggestions? I can’t glue it to the top commutator plate as it needs to be able to rotate to a degree so I’m reviewing options for replacements…
Maybe a 3D print I could slot into the commutator plate, and melt around the pin? Or maybe do the same with a suitably sized piece of plasticard? I’m reluctant to replace the motor with a 3 pole since I like to keep these models in original condition wherever possible, and this certainly isn’t the most complex repair to make (I hope…).
-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204779782640
Possibly of interest to some people here... Stirling Single kit, £65 (though the seller does take offers), unsure if it's complete. I'd buy it myself and look for a LotI chassis to put with it, but other things need my attention first.
-
3 hours ago, Hacksworth_Sidings said:
it does utilise the same 2 pole motor + clutch arrangement as their tender locos
Odd… Did GraFar themselves do this, or is this a modification somebody else has made? Maybe a c0ckup in the factory?
Looking between the parts diagram and my example… Is the diagram for a different version of the model? It shows the motor being permanently coupled to the driveline, whereas my example contains the centrifugal clutch assembly! Hopefully someone more knowledgable corrects me, but is mine modified? Is this as it came from the factory? Was there some kind of error between diagram and model? Or is it a service sheet for a different variant of the model that was paired with the wrong version?
-
3
-
1
-
-
6 hours ago, Hacksworth_Sidings said:
Right, arrived not long ago, at college though so I’ll have to check it out once I get home, I think I already mentioned but this seller uses AI descriptions in his listings so I’m looking forward to seeing if these hide any flaws with the model (or am I? I’d hate if I got another zinc pest victim…) I’ll show once I get home.
Finally home, I’ve inspected the model cosmetically, drivers aren’t locked up so thankfully no zinc pest!
That’s about all I have positive to say, the locomotive had ZERO padding inside the box and was loosely floating about (no damage I can see, but still a bad choice on his end), not to mention he only sent the locomotive in its GraFar box, wrapped in bubble wrap and covered in a plain white plastic wrap, no second box to protect the quite thin, feeble GraFar box, nope!
Yes, the locomotive and box survived the trek, but I still feel that giving minimal protection to the box and its contents is unacceptable, I’ve bought Princesses for a fiver which had better packing than this!
The listing never specified if it ran, spoiler alert: It currently does not, I’ll have to get it opened up this weekend and have a look inside, but from looking beneath it does utilise the same 2 pole motor + clutch arrangement as their tender locos, I’m assuming they chose a large prairie to model because that was the smallest motor they had at the time, and they knew they could hide such a bulky motor in the tanks. Aside from that, the model is as advertised, I knew it’d likely need work either way, but I’ll leave a review on the seller’s page pointing out the shoddy job of packaging it.
Edit: I will admit though, I wasn’t expecting the original exploded parts diagram or the manufacturer letter to be included!
-
8
-
1
-
2
-
-
29 minutes ago, cypherman said:
the mounting point for the piston rods is on the front wheel and not the middle wheel. Makes it a bit more difficult.
Hence why I bought up 33C’s Claughton, the front drivers on his are modified to take a screw which hold the con rods in place.
-
1
-
1
-
-
10 minutes ago, Deeps said:
Quite probably, and as I implied it would be a lot of effort to get something which may prove a disappointment.
However, there are static SR C Class models on the ‘bay’ for around £15. Secondhand, inexpensive 0-6-0 chassis are readily available and someone unable to stretch to the 100 notes plus for a Bachman model might well consider it an appealing project.
Triang/Hornby 08 chassis (later version with the shorter wheelbase, block shared with the E2, B12, A1/3, etc), would it look the best? Not at all, but would it be a cheap, functional, good representation of the class? Absolutely! I might look into doing that myself… :)
-
3
-
-
35 minutes ago, 33C said:
Probably better suited from an A1/3. Plenty of filing and sanding!
Mind went over to the B12 mainly because of the parallel boiler, whilst the A1/3 has a tapered boiler… Could maybe do the A2 on A3 frames using the B12 boiler? Still brainstorming at this point, nothing set in stone.
-
1
-
-
Friend is looking into modelling a Raven A2, I’ve recommended the B12’s chassis to them as I feel it has the necessary length (and can be easily modified to take the Princess’ cylinders and rods as shown on 33C’s Claughton), but that’s got me wondering… Would a B12 to A2 conversion be doable?
-
On 03/05/2024 at 10:09, Hacksworth_Sidings said:
Marked as dispatched last night, currently marked as “item advised”, hopefully RM will have it sent out today. Estimated delivery date is between tomorrow or next week on Wednesday.
Right, arrived not long ago, at college though so I’ll have to check it out once I get home, I think I already mentioned but this seller uses AI descriptions in his listings so I’m looking forward to seeing if these hide any flaws with the model (or am I? I’d hate if I got another zinc pest victim…) I’ll show once I get home.
-
2
-
-
5 hours ago, Peterem said:
possibly a Dapol.
GBL, the rods on the Dapol model are far too thick, not to mention it has the gargantuan number plate moulded onto the smokebox door. I’d love to know how he went about throwing the quartering off on the rear driving axle though, since the driven wheels on the GBL models are a single casting, connected by a bar hidden away in the chassis.
(Edit, he didn’t, I simply didn’t look at the photos correctly, still only just waking up for the day..!)
-
1
-
-
51 minutes ago, AVS1998 said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285816083028?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=RXlaj__MSgq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=mXwWi-U9S6e&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=Copy there's a funky option for one of you crafty fellows!
I’ve got one of these in my collection somewhere, picked up for 50p from a local car boot a few years back, never had a key so maybe it could be a fun project to cosmetically fix it up and fix it to an electric chassis.
-
1
-
-
I’ve heard of people using brass tubing to sort out split axles, I watched Ron’s video when it first came out and, if I recall correctly, he used that method to effectively just squeeze the worn axles back together at the ends, keeping the insulating property whilst strengthening the overall build quality. Another issue for me would be my track though, unsure how well those finer wheels and long wheelbases would take the tight, chunky Series 3 track I use, whereas a Princess chassis? I know what I’m dealing with, maybe that’s something I can put the recently acquired Princess towards… I’ve wanted an excuse to try and get more American stuff too, so modifying an old Bachmann steamer to take a more reliable chassis could be a fun project, might have a look at my local train show next month… Ooooh, my local car boot sale is coming back too, after the pandemic shut it down a few years ago… I’ll be checking that out when it opens up.
-
2
-
-
Shared on 33C’s Triang Princess thread, but I feel it’ll be suited to a wider audience.
I saw this edited photo back in April 2022 (unsure who made it) of a BR standard class 2, cut down to a 2-4-0 config, after rediscovering it I found a sudden desire to make one for myself… Long story short, I’ve struck a bargain with one of my friends and I’m buying an LMS Ivatt 2MT (one of the old Hornby models with the X.04? X.03?) from him, I’ve got an Ivatt of my own already so whichever is in worse condition will get the hacksaw…
-
9
-
-
Hmmm… More ideas…
I’ve heard horror stories about the old Bachmann 4-8-4s having split axle issues, and given how I’m not keen on the split chassis design, I’m tempted by the prospect of using a Princess chassis to get one of those running… Would make for an interesting sight on my layout…
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, 33C said:
Do a "Hush-Hush"? Nice and simple with my Template.
Or, a cab-forward/camel-back type!
That warped frame is my main concern, though that’s definitely a conversion I’d like to try out…
-
1
-
Let's see your Airfix/Kitmaster kit
in Kitbuilding & Scratchbuilding
Posted
Lengthways, widthways or heightways? Either is nothing a bit of time with a file won’t fix…