Denny

1 hour ago, Creampot Junction said:

I cant understand why the Main lighting functions Like the main Head Lights (Day and Marker) and tail lights are not put on lower out put numbers as everyone will be using them. Compared to other features and then the build the numbers up with the function output which will be more popular. Or those that you will hardly be able to see from a viewing distance e.g desk lights on the higher functions.  Instead of them all being mixed bags and the main ones cant be used. Espically as the originally Hattons 66 head lights worked with the markers apart from the error with the bug eye lights.

 

Hopefully Accurascale will work with ESU to resolve this issue and put the Main lights on the lower out put numbers for the next batch of 66's.

Chris

I completely agree. 

13 hours ago, Andy7 said:

I personally use on Tamiya masking tape for all edges (it’s by far the sharpest and best). That is a sort of side note though.

What I do on specifically that bit is to cut a very sharp corner off the 6mm tape. It’s not easy to get right but you can do it until you get one you are happy with without wasting much tape. I also use a very small pair or victorinox scissors.

One other way would be to do a right angle and then whilst the paint is still wet, unmask and use some white spirit to take the point off. This may sound daunting but it isn’t and I do it all the time to remove over spray or straighten a line (this is a top tip btw).

Very helpful, thank you. I didn’t think about taking the point off with thinners/white spirit! 

I’ll look forward to giving it a go! 

Hi Andy, 

They all look great! Just the right amount of weathering for a modern day fleet.

I especially like your version of 47749. I’m about to start working on one for myself.

Could I ask about your method of masking the radius on the cabside, where the blue meets the yellow?
 

My plan was to mask diagonally across a sharp 90 degree corner and then touch in the blue with a brush afterwards. Is there a better way? 
 

Best,

Denny 

Track3D produce a few bits for HST’s. Not specifically for the Lima model but if you’re prepared to hack things about, I guess they could be made to work. 
 

https://www.track3drailwayparts.store 

Shawplan do an etched mesh. Not sure how big the holes are though. 
 

https://www.shawplan.com/fittings.htm

The 73/9 looks very promising. Excited to see how it turns out! 

Here’s a primitive edit to one of my shots taken the day it left Eastleigh. 

4 hours ago, meatloaf said:

Can anyone point me to the Plux22 to next 18 adaptors so i can fit both a class 20 and a 37?

https://www.coastaldcc.co.uk/products/esu/adapter-board-18-pin-next-18-socket-to-plux12

Currently out of stock but available to back order. 

3 hours ago, LMSfan72 said:

 

I actually went and looked again at what other colours I had. I just went over them withModel Air Sinai Gray 82 71.142 and that's a better match. A slight blend of the 2 likely get you near on perfect

 

Thanks! Ordered. You can never have too many greys! 

On 09/02/2024 at 16:07, Butler Henderson said:

This fell off the chassis of mine today - anyone any idea where it fits - looks smooth not corrugated as the blown up photo

 

It is from what I think is the AWS magnet housing. The small box in the middle of the chassis behind one of the bogies. 

Looking really good! 

Is that a stock Vallejo colour for the parts on 311's roof or a mixup job? 

2 hours ago, Edge said:

 

It went well, there is a limited functionality (for instance, the internal lights don’t work) but that’s not a dealbreaker for me. Basically, I have sound, motion and directional lighting. There is a vague chance that there might be a bit more for the 69, but it would depend upon the specific functions of the model and how it was all wired.

Absolutely brilliant! Thank you for the video, that's completely alleviated my concerns. Like you, I don't mind too much as long as the thing moves and a light or two works!

Thanks again!

On 06/11/2023 at 20:51, Edge said:

Thank you all. After having searched a bit more, this appears to be very much the only game in town :) so I shan’t bother anyone with phone calls, I’ll just leap in and have a go :)

Do you mind me asking how you got on? 

Bachman’s new class 69 specs mention a Plux22 socket. I use exclusively the HM7000 chips in Bluetooth mode so it would be good to know if the adapter linked above will allow things to work. 

I must admit, I'm really quite excited about these. It's been difficult to choose which one to pre-order. 

I've gone with 005. I think I'd also like 004 if it's announced but then I'd have two celebs (are they celebs?) and no bog standard one!

12 minutes ago, Godfrey Glyn said:

A good question, I saw the sample at Febex at the weekend and it looked very impressive - a friend said it looked to be of Accurascale quality!  I couldn't find any mention of it this morning on a skim through the announcements video. Very strange. Perhaps its not as ready as they want it to be or otherwise they want to add some liveries that  have not been outshopped yet. Did not one of the real locos enter the Eastleigh works recently to be painted?

Nobody has died so not of any great importance in the scheme of things!

all the best

Godfrey

 

The models were mentioned in the announcement video, 5 minutes in. 
 

Has anyone found further details about these models yet? The announcement said info was available online and that order books were open. 

I’ve been very tempted by the SWT version. Unfortunately not my chosen era and I must be strict with myself or I end up completely out of control! 
 

3417 would work though! Go on Hornby, you know it makes sense! 

43 minutes ago, BritishRail60062 said:

I have done an unofficial review of my example. I really love the model and thank goodness for no opening doors to boot! I appreciate the new model, thank you. 

 

I gave this nice model a 9 out of 10. Great work! 

Looks like the MU receptacle has fallen off one end. 

4 minutes ago, 4630 said:

Resistance is futile.

 

A Colas grid will be on its way to me today.

I've been having words with myself since yesterday...

"You don't need a Colas Grid... You don't need a Colas Grid. You haven't even seen one in real life! 

You bought a knackered Hornby BR Blue example to turn into 081 because you couldn't justify both celebs on a 6 foot plank...."

*Ping*

"Order confirmed... thank you for your purchase." 🙄

Thanks for the responses and photos. I think part of it, is the huge change from pristine, almost white ballast. I did go back and revisit a few areas I felt I had overcooked though.
 

As Gilbert said, after a few days, things look and feel a lot better. Some careful dry brushing has helped. 
 

1 hour ago, Bloodnok said:

I've just had a reply from Simon too -- he's told me the switches are for switching between logic level outputs (when in the "ESU" pattern) and full power outputs (when in the "Non-ESU" pattern).

That would imply that using the switches in ESU mode with a logic-level output decoder like my Zimo MN340C would work.

However ... that's not the case. The current logic level outputs (FO3/AUX3 and FO4/AUX4) successfully drive the dashboard lights on the 37, with the switches in "Non-ESU" mode.

And if I set the full "ESU pattern" on the switches, I get no lights at all. Not even the basic four which are full power on all decoders -- the headcode panel lights on F0f and F0r, and the tail lights on AUX1 and AUX2. Those are full power even on ESU decoders.

Same with the Hornby HM7000 chip. I get markers, tails and gauge lights on 37409 in the "Non-ESU" config. I don't really understand it but I'm assuming that regardless of dip-switch config, I won't be able to access the headlight. 

Thank you. That is sound advice. I plan to add some greenery and other details which hopefully will blend things together. I will leave it a while though. 
 

I was warned that it was difficult to know when to stop with the airbrush! 

I've just completed my first attempt at track weathering, but I fear I may have gone a bit overboard. The combination of sleeper grime and frame dirt has given my tracks a look more suitable for a steam-era industrial setting rather than a modern-day scene.

Now, I'm in a dilemma – I'm worried that adding more paint might make things worse. Has anyone successfully managed to pull back an over-weathered look? Or should I accept it as is?

I'm considering spraying a light grey over the top to tone it down, but I'm unsure if that would just result in a chalky appearance.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Awesome. I missed the post initially, but thank you for the information regarding 153376's paint job. 

I bumped into 153331 on Friday and took the liberty to take some detail shots. They may be of use to you. 

I recently attempted to fit an Illuminated Models engine room light to an unused decoder function on my early gen Hornby Class 60. Unfortunately, in the process, I managed to break the existing directional lights. 

Initially, they only worked in one direction, but after more tinkering, they now only work in that direction but regardless of the lighting function being turned on or off – they come on as soon as track power is applied.

The engine room lights worked as intended though…somewhat a result! 

My suspicion is that I might have bridged a connection on the rear of the decoder socket while trying to tap into pins 3 and 7. Would this cause problems with the other lights? 

In my attempt to resolve this issue, I'm planning to purchase a replacement PCB and try again. However, I'm wondering if there's a method to wire the engine room lights without soldering onto the underside of the decoder socket? 

The PCB has several solder pads, but unfortunately, none are marked.

Any advice or suggestions would be immensely helpful! Thanks!