CoBoLoco

Has anyone figured out how to get the Spirax function working whilst the Engine (F1) is off? I know there is a tickbox in the Lokprogrammer software that allows a user to enable or disable a sound from playing if the Engine (F1) is off, however regardless of which way it is set it doesn't seem to make any difference once written to the decoder.

Cheers @RBE Will let him know. As for me, VERY HAPPY with my Sound Fitted Colas. Roll on batch 2 & the Class 60!!!

Thanks @RBE 2nd question. If he wants your sound project, am i right in thinking he cannot get this from the ESU website & blow it onto a blank Loksound 5 himself using a lokprogrammer? Ie he would need to purchase the decoder with the project on it either from yourselves, or from a vendor such as roads & rails?

A friend has just bought a DCC ready (ie analog) Cavalex EWS 56, but even with the switches in the correct position according to the booklet the fans don't appear to be working. Is there anything he might have missed? Thanks

Just something to note. I remember speaking to Cav i think at DEMU last year, and i don't know if this is still the case now, but he said that for them, Cavalex models was a side project alongside their main employ. Pretty impressive i think for 2 guys to bring a model like this to market in what otherwise would be their spare time.

Turns out it is not just the head/tail lights, but also the cab light, drivers desk, engine room.

Anyone figured out why the lights on F0 briefly dim, when starting up F1?

@McC are you able to share which particular skus from the 1st 3 arrivals are setup with which? Also are the projects different, or can the function of F8 be changed from one to other with a CV change? Thanks

This looks a slightly different from the card I got in the box. Also any word on the Cold Start?

I think with mine it was a couple of things causing problems. Residue left on the wheels from the blackening, & the master volume being set from the factory at 192 causing the chip to overload. Have reduced the master volume (CV 63) to 180 (the default setting for Loksound v5), as some others have suggested & this appears at this point to have cured the overloading. Might be worthwhile including the master volume CV on the DCC function card in future, & also a note explaining that CV 32 needs to be set to 1 before changing any of the other volume CVs (except the master). It's in the Loksound V5 manual, but not everyone will check that. I hadn't at first. As per @D400's brilliant investigation, the findings match up with what I experienced with my model. Might have to dust off the lok programmer to try what @D400suggested. Otherwise a cracking model & glad I have the ROG one on preorder also. Hopefully @Accurascale can sort out or head off these problems before the next lot of models land.

@Accurascale Fran received my sound fitted example in the post but having some issues on dcc. Alot of the functions don't appear to work, for example lights won't turn on, and it does the start up sound for a few seconds & then cuts out. Using a dc controller, everything lights & sounds work fine. I am thinking perhaps the decoder is faulty? What's the best way to get in touch to get it sorted? Thanks

But can you afjord both? :P

Saturday is the 1st of April...

Nice! Is this a personal project? Or proof of concept, for sale/fitting of kit for example?

Not got my set yet, but I am looking forward to it arriving. Someone said something about people cancelling preorders. I cancelled the first TPE pack a while back, as I wasn't sure I could afford it based on the arrival date back then, and also wasn't 100% on the finish based on the pre production sample pics. Shortly before the production pics landed I preordered & paid for pack 2, given how good the sleepers looked. So some people cancel & then change their mind on cancelling! With ref. To the magnetic coupling and people having varying success on varying layouts I imagine a balance has to be struck around magnetic strength. It's no good having a really strong magnetic coupling, if it is so strong it requires massive effort & force to uncouple it. Make it too difficult to uncouple & you may as well have gone with a solid bar, or the dreaded tension lock. Interested to see if anyone can make their own custom destination displays, or perhaps even working ones? Also interested to see if anyone is willing & able to fit working door interlock lights? In the meantime has anyone found a supplier for a DVT sound chip? Can't see a legomanbiffo one, yet.