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Fel1xp

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Posts posted by Fel1xp

  1. Thanks for everyone’s help. As a Mac user I didn’t use Templot in the end. 
    I followed the idea above of taking a screenshot with the red line showing me the scale length of a 13ft wide track plan. 
    I then used Adobe acrobat to scale the image up to 13ft x 3ft. This was then sent to an online printers at the cost of £50! 
     

    Quality of the image is the only problem, but I was restricted as this was the only map showing the station in its current form. 
     

    Pic attached of the current track plan overlay… now to workout how to lay the track accurately - do I stick the paper down? Put pins in to follow the path? 04B12D40-F1EA-4696-AFDB-904AAC9E388E.jpeg.047e7a1aae5d3dfbc97e8d76f27b2001.jpeg

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  2. Looking for help as I begin replicating West Ealing station in West London. Wanting to make a full size replica across 3ft x 13 ft.

     

    The problem: I want to make an accurate mock up of the station and surroundings, so ideally would make a print out of the google map satellite image, thus allowing me to pin track/see where everything goes and adjust if required. 

     

    I've got a MacBook and used RailModeller Express, but its too basic/time consuming to replicate the area. 

     

    Any suggestions or advice on how to move from a satellite image to a track plan which could be printed and placed on the baseboards. 

    Obviously I can just do an interpretation of the area by loosely following an image, but was hoping to be able to build on top of an accurate plan710451584_Screenshot2021-09-20at21_16_11.png.73fc767a08825bc4279cb02faf2b8f17.png1344099454_Screenshot2021-09-20at21_16_42.png.b243fcaa9ce72650b9198afd047e1f66.png

     

    The main things I'm trying to capture are the platform shape and track plan. 

     

    TIA 

     

  3. So my first attempt at renumbering went south during the varnish stage. 

    The original transfers were rubbed off with IPA, gloss surface for transfers. However, I sealed in the transfers with a can of Matt varnish resulting in a poor finish with thick outlines and contrasting finish to the loco  (see pictures) - You can see how thick the varnish is

     

    I’m looking to start all over again - Does anyone know what to use to dissolve the Matt varnish? IPA results in a white misty residue / doesn’t really work. I also don’t want to damage the original paintwork 

     

    - does the Class 800 also have a satin finish as opposed to Matt as I don’t want to make the same mistake again!

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  4. Having done a search online I can't find a place to buy a replacement funnel for my Class 14xx. Phoenix Precision sell some cast pieces but nothing compares to the height required for the 14xx.

     

    Any help on where to source one is appreciated as I'd like to avoid buying a new body altogether.

     

    Pictures below showing what I've got and what I'm aiming for!

     

     

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  5. Having bought the loco online with a crack I wanted some help on how to fix a crack on the body shell. Its lucky its on the smokebox as the black helps mask it.

     

    I thought I have 3 options:
    1. Leave it

    2. Glue it  (I'm concerned about glue residue and doing more damage)

    3. Fill it and sand it (again will I just end doing more damage)

     

    If you've done this before or got any tips it would be appreciated!

     

     

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  6. Hi,

     

    I've lost the sheet of sound functions for my A3 TTS chip. 

    Does anyone have a scan or pdf of the document? I realise you can get the literal list of functions from different websites but was hoping to get the official Hornby sheet which I cant find anywhere!

     

    Cheers

  7. Hi all,

     

    I'm looking to build a helix inside a mountain to help the train. I believe that minimum radius for n gauge is 12 inches, but could a OO9 loco e.g. 2-6-2T fit round this tight radius too?

    Has anyone got any advice on building a helix in general for OO9?

    Cheers

  8. I've bought a Hornby Hogwarts Express and a 'mylocosound' chip was hardwired in. The only problem is that the headlight only comes on when the loco is stationary or moving in reverse. 

     

    I opened up the tender and the headlight wires are wired to yellow and blue showing the light is wired into the rear light function.  The white wire for the front light has been snipped so would be a pain to solder a new one in.

     

    Could anyone help me with making the rear light function come on regardless of direction without the need to re-wire the headlight / decoder.

     

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