Harry50

On 29/11/2019 at 14:45, wombatofludham said:

If anyone is still wondering whether to go for the bargain Aldi printer go for it, especially at 150 sovs.  Once you've learned the skills needed to 3d design and how to manage your printing process you won't look back, the ability to produce custom designs has always been one of the more satisfying aspects of modelling, only now you can scratchbuild the 21st Century way.

You can get good 3D printers for less than £150 on the internet anyway. Have you used the Aldi printer yet? I was wondering if there is any z wobble that creates lines on the surface of the print? 

I bought a cheapo 3D printer a few years ago and it had really bad banding issues. Luckily I managed to correct it by getting a precision leadscrew. The original leadscrew was slightly bent. 

Thanks for that! Do you know where I can get a countersunk black version of these ?

I'm going to use concealed black hinges. Although the hinges will be on the inside, you'll still see the screws when the door opens like a cupboard. 

On 09/11/2019 at 08:29, RobjUK said:

However most parts are made hollow, with a honeycomb internal reinforcement - if you try and put holes in at random, you will not have structural locations where you drill.

You must build-in the holes in your design, so the 3D-to-print conversion program (a "slicer") can allow for them and include the appropriate structures where needed.

 

Just design the parts to be a direct fit together, with mortise joints / holes / recesses / counterbores for fixings etc. at the required sizes.

A decent printer used with a properly set up slicer program will make the parts to exact size.

 

Thank you for your answer. If I use plastite screws, do I design a pilot hole into that is one size smaller than the screw? The screws are self tapping, so they seem like they should go in easily, but I've never used them before and I don't want them to split the PLA.

Hi,

I'm creating a 3D printed school that has a side that opens up like a dolls house. Basically my question is : Does anyone have a cheat sheet for drilling into 3D printed plastics? Does ABS split when drilled? 

Thanks

I want to 3D print something very specific, but I'm not sure exactly how to go about it.

I've been referred to this forum from the Hornby community forum. Basically I'm wanting to 3D print a school for a model railway. It would be printed in sections, with one wall which opens out like a cupboard, to create a dolls house effect. Can anyone help me out with the design? A lot of the design would depend on the hinge and screws, I'm not sure which is the best plastic to use that won't split when I drill it? 

On 28/10/2019 at 16:18, njee20 said:

there's a huge community of users.

 

Do you know a forum or website for exchanging or buying Cad files for Photons or do you model your own? 

Hi, I've just been chatting to someone who has built their own printer. Have you ever thought about making your own from a kit?

We are hoping to move house soon, so I'll need to disassemble it at some point. 

I think the locking washers are included in the design because they stop the fixings from working loose, so I've bought these: https://www.accu.co.uk/20-locking-washers.

I'm building my first baseboard from plywood and birch. I've built the H leg assemblies, but now the design calls for 'locking washers' for the angle braces.

I've had a look online and there seems to be different types with different teeth. I'm not sure of the different purposes for internal locking washers and external locking washers and fine tooth locking washers. Which type should I use?

Thanks

Harry