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Alterstone_ngauge

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Posts posted by Alterstone_ngauge

  1. 3 hours ago, millerhillboy said:

    superb, very atmospheric and as you say worth it in the end.

     

    28 carriages!! that would cost you a pretty penny at todays prices, the blue riband mk1s which I much prefer must be made of solid gold these days!!


    I know it’s insane the cost. Lots of these I would have picked up for less though as I’ve had some almost 6 years. 
     

    At least the method of lighting them I have I have chosen is very cheap.

  2. 3 hours ago, Duncan. said:

    Hi,

    Great Work, one of the most realistic looking N scale steam sheds I've seen. You have captured the run down dirty look of the shed and the locos is well an excellent model, again showing N scale to it's best. However, (sorry) can I make a request... probably because it looks so well it makes the 'bases' of the loco yard lamps really stand out... is it possible to bury them into the ground a little?

    Cheers

    Duncan

     

     

     Thank you !

     

    of course! In fact, I really don’t like the yard lamps. They look really out of place and they are not realistic. I’m going to scratch build my own and install them instead. I need about 20 for the whole layout so I couldn’t face installing 20 of ones a basically hate. 

     

     

    • Informative/Useful 1
  3. 14 minutes ago, markw said:

    Changing CV128 and CV130 to 0, will make both of the outputs wired to the cab lights non directional, controlled by function key 12.


     

    oh wow thank you it worked ! 

    the decoder only allows one programming move then it changes everything to 255 and says can’t read CV so unfortunately I can only have both carriages lit in one direction and forced to use the default decoder settings. 
     

    do you think it is faulty? My other MX660 with the exact same setup and lighting does not do this. 


     

    Dan

  4. I have Z21 system. 
     

    what’s strange is it is just this decoder behaving like this. I have the exact same decoder on another loco working and ready writing completely fine for all the same values. (Exactly the same lighting set up too) 

     

    if I can learn how to make the cab lights non directional on this other loco and test it - I can test the same approach on the offending decoder so that’s good at least. 
     

    one time I adjusted the acceleration values etc and the cab light functions started flickering together and it drove off at full speed with no throttle!!! It has a complete mind of its own. How does that happen? 

     

    you are correct about F02 front and F04 rear. 
     

    here are the values from youchoos

     

    image.jpg.794b4de9e29e5df5b5bd943f8e5b7571.jpg

     

    image.jpg.65703bd8fa0614438767c1fb63af548c.jpg

     

    hope this helps 


     

    thanks 

     

    Dan

     

     

  5. 15 minutes ago, Nigelcliffe said:

    Or use one of numerous other methods to set up lighting behaviour for Zimo.   

    Knowing which wire or function output pad was connected may help with specific advice.

     

     


     

    where is a good place to have this information in front of me? The manual for zimo seem SO complicated it’s like a different language 

  6. 1 hour ago, RedgateModels said:

    depends which wire you have used, if it's the white wire write a value of 1 to cvs 33 and 34. If you used the yellow wire write 2 to cv33 and 34


     

    thank you for your reply!

     

    all this seems to do in my case is turn off the front headlights on one end completely. 
     

    here is the wiring I have used 

    3CA53DEE-10CE-4C33-9DFE-F8EACBF6E332.jpeg.0e4798510f6a94228f33970b2663e7fd.jpeg


     

     

    and here is the decoder layout 

     

    image.jpg.4519f0201b9e4d6eb4371f650886551e.jpg

    Thanks in advance 

     

  7. Just wanted to ask if anyone knows how to make the directional cab light function non directional? 


    I can’t find the answer and keep messing up the results and having to reset my decoder. I have finished my installation  and it so annoying not being able to see it working !

     

    09F7C8AD-4714-4AB7-B55A-8E8F1D85869F.jpeg.6a81eb9aa79d249afee7a147b7a6f789.jpeg

  8. Thank you guys.

     

    here is what the lighting looks like in one carriage so far .... I have used tin foil and white paper in the roof and the leds are soldered onto two brass rods facing upwards. With the reflection that the paper brings I think I could use the same aux for the other carriage and not have any brightness issues. This is currently using 5 leds....

     

    the obvious issue is that I need to make it not direction dependent !

     

     

     

  9. I’m quite big on my DCC sound but most of the time it’s steam locos and therefore less inclined to include lights. (I’m talking N gauge here) 

     

    Anyway, I’ve started to fit some diesels now in my fleet and I’ve got myself up to my Graham Farish 108 DMU. 
     

    I really want to have carriage lighting so I’ve made my myself two bars of LEDS to go inside. I seem to have run out of functions however. 
     

    I’m using an MX660 drop in board and have completed the install apart from the light bars. 
     

    functions 1 And 2 are the directional lights 

    functions 3 & 4 are the directional cab lights 

     

    I’d like to be able to switch the light bars on and off and could probably lose the cab lights or have them on the same bus. The output from the AUX is 3v so maybe I would need two  separate functions for each carriage to provide the right power for up to 5 LEDS on each carriage 

     

     

    I have no idea how to remap the functions and struggling to get it to work. If anyone can offer any advice that would be most helpful - I’d love to get the inside lights going!

     

    cheers 

  10. On 01/03/2020 at 03:52, dpgibbons said:

    Any thoughts please as to how much stay-alive capacitance you need? I'm struggling to find room for more than 2x220uF tantalums in a Dapol 3500gall GWR tender, even with the smaller Tramfabriek motor and casing. 

     

     

    I recommend 2x470uf minimum to make it really reliable at crawl speeds and on dirty track. It does depend how dirty of course, and on the models pickup capability before fitment. Upwards of two starts to make any steam tender loco pretty invincible. I wouldnt use 220uf at all just doesnt seem worth the effort and space. have you considered under the tender like my Ivatt above? that had zero space after large speaker and decoder, but managed to get in 3x470uf using the sace underneath.

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