Velocemitch

A cold frosty morning on the East Coast Main Line, Near East Cowton. 46115 near East Cowton by Ian Mitchell, on Flickr

Thanks for all the replies, I’ve ordered some Phoenix etch primer and thinners, so will see how it pans out.

What are people using for primer on etched kits etc, top coat would be enamel. ive tried an aerosol from my car resto collection, but I think the spray is a bit course for models. I seem to recal a discussion about certain aerosol brands, but not sure where. I could use my airbrush, but again not sure who’s paint.

Thought I'd chip in on this as my real interest in railways and subsequently railway modelling was triggered by a trip to Steamport at Southport (I spotted the user name above!). This must have been in about 1974 so very early days for the museum I was struck dumb by the physical size of steam locos and then saw some N Gauge models in the shop. I would be about 13 at this point and had built just about every Airfix kit ever brought out. As a young child we had a train set, shared with my brother but It didn't inspire me. Following the Steam port visit I started exploring my local railways taking numbers, photography followed and became quite serious as I got older trips to South Africa and Turkey plus regular escapades chasing stem specials. The modelling started in N with an end to end around two sides of my bedroom, then a roundy roundy, both seemed really good to me but in truth were a bit rubbish. It got more serious by 1976 when I built a prototype of Holmfirth Station in N along with a few scratch built Loco's (some even worked!) and exhibited it a few times. I remember buying a Peco Jubilee with my first ever wage packet (there wasn't much left !). I had a dabble with EM gauge for a short while, learnt a lot about track standards etc and then moved back to the smaller stuff with 2mm finescale. The hobby stayed with me and became an obsession then for about thirty years until I started to find myself being drawn away towards Cars and Motorsport and failing eyes meant I was really struggling with 2mm. I gave up modelling in about 2010, but as retirement is starting to loom and motorsport becoming ever more unlikely to carry on (At least at the pace it was for me) due to the costs involved I'm starting to put my toes back into the world of railways. Strangely my eyes are starting to come back to me too, so I'm back soldering up ludicrously small pieces of metal to make 2mm stuff work!

Not sure if this is the right place to ask.... but I will im wondering which buffers to use on a pair of fence houses 21 Tonne hoppers I’m building. looking at photos I think they usually had the BR Standard F4 1’6” Spindle buffer, but I can’t see that one in the shop, which would be the closest?

I hadn't realised the post went through, I thought I'd stopped it as the video's weren't showing for me??? Do they show for others? There is a clear movement of the drivers possible half a mm or more. To be fair, previous wheels I had during that period didn't display this problem either, so may be its just a bad batch. It will be a shame to have to strip it all back out to use new wheels, but I guess its the right solution.

Is there a history of eccentric wheels within the association products? I've been working on getting my Bob Jones Jinty chassis running, which I bought years ago and never finished. The Wheels are an old version with cast white metal centres. I'm fining the chassis will not run well at all. It seems OK when running upside down with contacts attached, but when running on the track its awful. It looks to me like the wheels are eccentric, which is creating lots of problems with pick up. The chassis does have the Simpson spring idea fitted, I do wonder if this is part of the problem, is the quartering not quite right pulling the wheels up and down in the clearance? I've attached a couple of video's which might help on a long range diagnosis [[Template core/global/editor/attachedAudio is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]][[Template core/global/editor/attachedAudio is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

I bottled out of using the tube and have ordered a sleeve. safest option I think. threadlock sounds a good idea too.

Thanks sounds like I might as well go that way then, measuring the ID of the tube it’s 0.9mm so the gap to fill is .075 mm in theory, assuming it stays central.

Thanks Chris, I will look at other ways then, I think I have about 1.5mm of space between the Top of the frames and the underside of the mount. I hold be able to figure it out. one other question I notice the shop are doing sleeves to adapt a 0.8mm shaft to a 1.5mm worm. Are these a close press fit or bonded? It’s just I’ve found a small brass tube in my box of bits, which seems very close to doing the job, but would need bonding to the motor shaft as it’s a little bit loose. It seems a bit daft just ordering such a small item in isolation from the shop. But if they are a perfect press on fit and more appropriate I will get one ordered.

Question on the 3D motor mounts the shop sells. how do people usually fix these to the chassis? I am thinking of simply glueing the mount to the motor, but I’m not happy to glue the mount to the chassis too, so need a screwed fixing with adjustment. The four projecting rods underneath look like they may take a 10 BA nut, but they will be very close to the inside of the frames if I use them. My mount will be sat right down on the top of the frames, so the nuts will be between them.

Monte Carlo actually, rare as hens teeth. So was the 1.4 L&K we had.

The vast majority of Yeti’s are 2WD with the 1.2 mpi engine, which is pretty naff really. The 4WD ones are better, I’ve had two a 1.4 TFSi and one of the diesel gate cheat 170bhp diesels ( it was Red too!), the later was a cracking thing, you could hurl it around like a hot hatch, but with more grip. Won a rally in it once. Id choose a Skoda over a VW and I have a particular hatred of Audi. the doors closed just like any other car......

It certainly did and more so than a Fiat of equivalent vintage!

Living in North Yorkshire we are lucky to have a really good Horologist living close by. Lucky I say, because my Wife inexplicably decided to start collecting vintage clocks a few months back, we are up to four now!. It surprised us how cheaply you can pick up some really nice pieces, each of them has a name. Walter is the best one, a fairly large American made Wall clock from the 1870's, picked up for £70.00. We have a couple of smaller ones of similar vintage, which we got for a fiver each. Currently all the clocks are working and its quite good fun trying to keep them all roughly on time.