adc

Bit of a long shot, but does the project have the brake functionality enabled and does you DCC system have the corresponding function latched on for that loco?

Alan

What is the current capacity of your system? Since both work independently, could it be that it can cope with one but not two chips connected?

The lower waveform in the first picture doesn't look right to me, the DCC voltage should go -ve.

Alan

I don't have any experience with this generator, but I can see that there is a manual available for it from the emu website.

https://www.esu.eu/en/downloads/instruction-manuals/accessories/

It has examples of how to wire it to other decoders that may be of help.

Alan

Hi the ECoS manual is available for download on the ESU website here: http://www.esu.eu/en/downloads/instruction-manuals/digital-systems/ 

The battery icon. indicates that the batteries are getting low, and the other indicates that a short has been detected.

Alan

The ECoS is really a small computer system, which just like your PC don't like suddenly losing power. The batteries are there to provide power to allow it to shutdown cleanly and save your settings should power be lost without the system having been shut down first.

It is perfectly safe to take the batteries out once the system has shutdown and none of your settings will be lost.

As Pheaton says, the danger in not removing the batteries when storing the system for long periods is that the batteries could leak.

Alan

6 hours ago, amarr40 said:

Its a shame as the photos posted by Rails on 22nd January looked to be correct. 

I noticed the difference when the photos where posted on the 19th May, but decided to go ahead any way.

I think they are nice models and can live with a slightly faded blue look.

We tried running Cobalt Analogue IP motors with a circuit similar to the one posted by Anders63.

We found that only a few of the 25 motors we had would work that way and instead had to use a rectified and smoothed 12V supplies instead.

Alan

A few snaps of East Kilbride's new N gauge, Stanley Junction. 

Has anyone had difficulty in taking the roof off as the only safe way to remove mine was to gently (or "gentry" as instruction say) squeeze sides of the loco body then pull roof upwards rather than squeezing the roof as the instructions state. When I eventually got the roof off I realised the clips were on the body with location lips facing outwards and location onto the roof sides so squeezing the roof makes it tighter to get roof off. I did get roof off by following instructions but realise it only came off because I was pulling so hard in order to overcome the clips which were being squeezed even tighter, gently squeezing did nothing.

 

Has anyone found roof difficult to remove like me?

Yes, exactly the same problem. Managed to unclip the roof next to the cab and raise slightly, and then gently slide some cardboard down the gap to get the other clips. The diagram included with the loco shows to lugs from the roof panel but fails to show the clips coming up from the body.