Realistic_build_Speed

Before getting too excited reflect for a moment on my username… 🙃

Sold - I’ll get insulating fishplates on order and find the diodes. Thanks all for the valuable insights.

I like the diodes direct to the controller idea for the shed. For the four year old full whack needs to be retained on the straights. The controller is a Model D so if there’s only one loop it would be possible to feed the curves and braking zones from one source at say 9V and have the others fed from the other side at “up to 12v” but then you get the bunching / decoupling effect as per DCB’s post. My preferred concept is for a diode set between consecutive short sections so that the speed comes off slowly, as per melmerby’s suggestion. May be quite jerky for the locos but they’re mainly very old ebay stocks - albeit still rather spry in their old age. If he’s still interested in railways when older we could remove it and let him drive. Alternatively if it goes go in the garden then a larger radius + can’t solves everything..

Thanks for the replies. I think I have a stack of diodes somewhere… Dad’s layout is in a shed, and now that I think about it the only really fast trains are mostly my son’s. Dad has a Hornby coronation with some serious pace, but maybe best to throttle that loco rather than do something to the power. The track took forever to lay so not keen to pull it up again. My son’s is temporary at the moment, we put it out on lino and take down when not in use. His big thing is watching them fly by at speed so the idea was radius 1 set track curves at each end to maximise the straights. We’re debating putting it in the garden for more room, longer straights, higher speeds and frankly to get him out there! :) That way the two running tracks are next to each other along the fence and I don’t have an obstacle to mow under. He likes long trains though so the point about the length of the slow section is well made. Cant / SE may be a good option there to conserve momentum. I’m not sure how it’d work on R1 set track when the aim is to rotate it 180 degrees and back onto a 250mm /9inch baseboard in the shortest space possible. My thought was 90 degree left turn, short straight c 15cm / 6in, another 180 degrees left, then 90 degrees right to face in the original direction of travel. I suspect set-track will be a bit stiff and the transitions to short to cant that. More research to do!

I tried to search for this but didn’t manage to find anything.. I am “responsible for” electrical and safety matters on two layouts, one for my Dad and one for my son. In both cases we’ve got tight curves and fast trains. I’m wondering if there’s an easy way of limiting the speed on the tight curves to prevent the sort of issues which would be front page news on tomorrow’s model newspapers. For example, I wondered about putting insulating fishplates on one rail, then connecting power from the adjacent section via a resistor? In theory the trains see lower voltage and slow for the curve regardless of the controller setting so are safe even when the operator is distracted. I can see a few problems with this approach and would rather not cause fire / damage as I would then be “responsible for” rebuilding the layout / shed / house.. Has anyone tried it? Are there any better ideas short of DCC? We’re talking about a lot of locos so I’d rather not go that way! Thanks for reading.. Alan

Brilliant advice, thank you. Final question - probably the wrong part of the forum for this... Is there anywhere I can get custom name plates made up? EBay City of Nottingham for Spares is running really well now. I think it’s earned itself a place on the layout. I’d like a non-prototypical tribute to my Dad....

Thanks all, I was surprised when the loco failed to operate because I’d been very sparing with the glue to ensure the tyres sat properly on the wheels. I couldn’t imagine that I’d formed a complete and effective insulating layer. I took it apart again tonight and tested with a multimeter. It turns out that these models work considerably better if you put them together properly! I’ve set the orientation of the wheelsets back to their correct configuration. It now runs properly. Well, as best a battered 50 year old model hastily repaired by an amateur can on 2 ft of code 75. I’ll report back once it’s reunited with Dad’s layout. While we’re here, I note that one loco (City of Coventry) is very spry. It runs smoothly and absolutely flies no matter how many coaches it’s hauling. Both of the others (City of Nottingham and Ebay City of Nottingham for spares) take a while to wake up in the morning and have about half the top speed of Coventry. Both have been thoroughly cleaned and lightly oiled. Is there anything more I can do?

There’s definitely no glue on the back of the wheels where a contact strip would touch it. Thing is - I didn’t see any actual contact strips. That confused me at the time - but as you can see from the time of my post I was tired and well aware I was past my best for the day! I had assumed they’d be obvious as would the insulators but they were not. The tender pin clearly conducts and it connects to a copper part which clearly takes current from the trailing wheels to the Tender. After that I have no idea how it works. The trailer wheel sets have metal treads but plastic spokes with no sign of contact pick ups. The trailing wheel frame is electrically connected to the chassis and the chassis seems to connect to the wheels just by metal on metal contact. I will have another go tonight and see what I missed.

Long overdue update.. I’ve finally stripped the locos down. In one case the motion was bent, either from dropping or mishandling. Sadly both are becoming common. I’ve VERY gently straightened it. Now that one runs perfectly again. The second has thrown the tyres from the cast wheels. “No problem“, thinks I, and carefully align them then fix in place with super glue..... ....Except of course this is a problem. With the 4 main contract wheels now glued on its electrical pickup is HOPELESS. It can just about get up to scale walking speed. Mechanically it runs smoothly at least. The remaining loco has the same problem so there’s no point advancing the superglue fix until I can figure out an alternative current collection arrangement. I know Hornby sell pickup kits for bogie’d stock. Guess I’ll try and adapt it for this application.

So for information, nope.... One 16v supply cannot run two co-acting PL10 controlled points! Next up, CDU....

Thanks Harlequin, and apologies for the lack of track plan. I keep meaning to draw it up but time is not on my side! The original intent was for a third loop on the bridge though I talked him out of it as he needs the space for sidings on the scenic side. Plus the loop would have to be 1st radius given the bend so not much other than Smokey Joe would get round it. He still occasionally mentions it though so we may yet try it before the scenery goes in. I should have included the photos below as well. They show the other side of the layout. This was originally destined to be a fiddle yard but a re plan saw it become the other terminus for the DMU on the overpass and somewhere more scenic for the express to fly through at speed. If I open the curves out on this side it’ll eat into the DMU’s scenic area - but that may not be such a bad thing.

Thanks for the link Shanghai Driver! As it happens the “overpass” is for a DMU which doesn’t fit with the rest of the steam stock so it’s a fictional addition to something which is meant to be a model of Millom station in Cumbria (if the town had prospered and grown sufficiently to attract mainline stock and express passenger locos). Long story short it’s very steep and not connected to the main layout, so we’ve never tried anything but the DMU on it. I can give some of the others a run and let you know...?

Some amazing input there, thank you. yes it’s the metal wheels (the 6 part of the 4-6-2) which have come loose. I suspected age initially but two second hand locos and one owned-since-new, never raced nor rallied low miler have suffered the same fate within weeks of each other. Having studied the issue in more detail I’m now convinced that the problem is the transition between the boards and the bridge over the door. I’m just not talented enough to get it smooth so they’re crashing over it with jarring force. last time I was up there I moved to copper clad plates and managed to tighten it up a lot. Only time will see if it helps, but in the meanwhile I have three crippled locos to sort. Mr The Johnster’s post will be read a number of times this evening! In the meanwhile - photos as requested....

Thanks, its on zero transitions Direct from straight into set-track second radius. The whole aim was to get the corners done in the shortest space to make the scenic area larger.

Morning all, Big problem here and I’m worried it relates to the space available. I’m trying to sort my Dad an OO gauge in his shed. We’ve got two loops and a fiddle yard up and running, with a branch at high level for a DMU. The track works fine, but because it’s two loops in a shed some of the bends are tighter than I’m happy with. One Corner is quite an open bend in flexi track but the other three are second radius to give enough space for the scenic area. Some locos are really suffering. His old Coronation Class locos in particular are literally falling apart. Tyres off wheels, wheels off axles, con rods all over the place. By comparison my class 91 / class 43s breeze happily around at whatever speed I ask of them. I’m wondering, is it just that the coronations are getting old, or are the curves too tight? They’re able to get around them without derailing, but are the wheels getting huge lateral loads through the flanges? Locos this age don’t come with a manual telling you what the minimum radius is so I’m in the dark and open to guidance. Thanks Alan