marcusd666

16 hours ago, ChrisMitchell said:

The most important point when looking to remove the body is to attach it to the plinth using the screws. Then  ease the clips  just inboard of the rear wheelsets (it helps to insert small strips of plasticard). The body should then be able to be carefully pulled away.

 

Chris

Thanks Chris,

Well I tried it this morning and removed the body with out a problem did had you said with 4 small plastic scrapers just behind the rear wheel sets on both bogies then moved them a little near the tanks.

I reinserted the mounting screws in to the chassis and then slide the body off I didn't put it back on the plinth as the scrapers are to long but could cut them down.

The thing I noticed in side the wires are quite short that are used for the cab and domino lighting so will have to remember for when I DCC fit my chip.

I have gone for a Lez sliver plus 22 chip just waiting on rails now for that.

Thanks

Marcus

18 hours ago, Albie the plumber said:

If the new models are anything like the 24's , the bodyshells will be quite a tight fit to the chassis .

Its been suggested that a good way to remove the bodyshell is to reattach the loco to its plinth after having first removed  any bodyshell securing screws .

This helps avoid handling  damage to bogie frames / tanks when trying to separate the two .

Cheers for the advice just want check there are 2 screws at either end behind the buffer beam I have undone 2 to remove the snowplough to attach the nem socket. Silly question time are these holding the body to the chassis?

Cheers

Marcus

Hi all, got mine this week looks amazing has anybody DCC fitted there own decoders yet as there are no instructions on how to fit a decoder or which decoder to buy ?

I don't want to start man handling it before I know where and how to remove the body.

Thanks

Marcus

22 hours ago, nswgr1855 said:

Good to hear, I hope Hornby will have the magnetic couplers as a spare part.

 

I have a set of west hill wagon works for mine work ok but a bit tight on my 2nd radius curve.

Hi all stupid question time changing the head codes is it just simply Stiicking the new one over the factory fitted or do you have to open the model up ?

You can stop laughing now 😁😁😁

Thanks

Marcus

Great news pre ordered mine.

Ahhh still waiting For my dispatch email oh well may be next week now 😢😢😢

1 hour ago, Ian Hargrave said:

FYI all expectant Deltic owners. DHL email on behalf of Accurascale  just received  announces deliveries commence.

Still waiting 😫😁

On 07/06/2022 at 22:59, Cheshire Lines. said:

And here is the video :

 

 

 

Just watched your video fantastic work any chance of making a kit that I can buy from you so I can upgrade my APT (14 car set) to the same standard.

Cheers

Marcus

Quick question it says in the manual  that running on DC that the directional head lights work work but on my PC2 only the tail lights work in reverse the headlights don't come on when moving forward? PC1 seems to work fine.

Cheers

Still waiting on mine from The Model Centre hopefully I will get a dispatch email next week.

Just had the invoice from TMC the APT-E is almost here.

Quick question. seeing that i have a small 9ft end to end layout so running in will be very hard. Can you run the power cars on there own i.e.. on a rolling road ?

Cheers

On 13/02/2022 at 15:59, Wolf27 said:

I’ve taken heed of what been occurring with the suppressor. Shall I send it Hornby so they can put it in the spares box?

So did you just cut the wires  and tape them up off the motor?

Cheers

Another quick question well 2 really.

Has anyone fitted a plug in decoder ( No lead)? and is any thinking of trying to replace the pano's with after market ones?

Thanks

On 05/02/2022 at 08:51, scumcat said:

No I wouldn’t they are too short. And they don’t answer emails when contacted.have you used the ApT hunts couplings to be able to recommend them? If so did you not have problems with the coaches catching and derailing?

Same here I wouldn't recommend Them I have a used them and my NDM'S Started clashing and started getting derailing. They are great for uncoupling but sadly on my 1 second radius curve with a small y point they are no use.

On 26/01/2022 at 21:57, Mr_Tilt said:

 

The E-Train runs pretty well under DC too, it just doesn't have as many lighting and sound options that are available when running under DCC.

 

Mine ran slightly faster under DC as well. 

That's good news there is no need to rush out a buy a new dcc setup

Can't wait will have to convert my DC layout to DCC now just for the APT-E well worth it.

Its been a while but have been busy on the layout over the last 12 months. It has been a good leaning experience and I have enjoyed it and found it quite relaxing in the most part.

The track plan has changed from the above picture as I found it to busy for the space I have removed 2 head shuts in front if the station which flows better.

I have fitted half of the point motors for the first time and had a go at ballasting for the first time here are a couple of pictures of the progress so far.

Thanks

Mine is due on Monday and then the wait is finally over. The only problem for me is my layout is an end to end about 12 foot so I can't even run it never mind make the full 14 car rack up.

Thanks for clearing that up will have a good read of the links you have mentioned.

Cheers

Marcus

Hi All, Just a quick question I have some small peco Y points and normal Y points electrofrog when I turn them over should there be a wire connected to the frog on the small one like on the normal one?

Also my layout will be wired for DC but I want to future proof it for DCC there doesn't seem to be the wires that you have to cut on them like on my other points?

Cheers

Marcus

Hi All, Thanks for your comments and advice on my first proper layout I will try to answer some of the above questions.

1, Era of my stock is BR corporate blue and BR Green Stream (More diesel then steam).

2, The Right hand curve is based on Second radius curve.

3, Re-Fuel point is for the diesels

4, I have moved the goods shed to the left hand side to make it more relevant and the water tower to near the station.

5, I have also added the power connector where mentioned.

The main purpose of the layout is to try and get back into modelling the railways again many practising new skills and trying to get it looking as realistic as I can.

Cheers

Marcus 

Hi All, this is my first post and a return to model railways from a long long break and having the some space now I have decided to create a layout and get back in the game.

After months of planning and working out where the layout is going to located I settled on the the spare room along the back wall 9 foot x 2 foot.
The layout is a modified copy of RM Hopwood concept with a heritage centre / Depot added to it.

The track is going to be all new Peco code 100 with medium electrofrog points I have gone for them points as the look the most realistic and point motors to be decided on but after a lot of reading I think they will be Seep with switch included as they can switch polarity on the frog.

Control is going to be DC Gaugemaster Twin Track controller for the power to the track, point motors and lighting stuff.

The base board will have to be removable so I have put 2 splits in the boards 3' x 2' sections I have tried to position the points at the joints to make it easier for joining / un-joining.

This is my first time at a End to End layout so any help with the wiring would be really useful as this is a DC layout and the only wiring I have done on a double loop when I was about 10 so I want to do a more realistic layout with point motors, lights, signalling etc.

Most of my loco stock is from Hornby late 70s early 80s. with so new additions in the last 12 months.

Any advice and info is always welcome.

Cheers.

marcus