r12477

For those interested in Victorian modern scene, there are a number of great videos on the Victorian Drivers View channel on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtdTpDamVj0z6-ZKMPZYytw). The videos include drivers views along the length of major suburban lines and shunting actions performed at yards and points throughout the network.

In addition to the N Scale T-TRAK module shared above, I have also uploaded to Thingiverse the vector art file for a single T-TRAK-HO module. This T-TRAK-HO design can be found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4945845

For those who are interested, I have uploaded the vector art file for a pair of T-TRAK single modules to Thingiverse. This design is intended for cutting in 6 mm plywood (or equivalent) material and allows for "no-tool" assembly using hobby glue (although a hammer and wood block may help when connecting pieces together). Avoid performing any "trial fit" before you are ready to glue the module together as this merely loosens the fit between module pieces. it s intended that this design is equivalent to commercial T-TRAK module offerings available from Masterpiece Modules and CMR Products. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4945831

You will undoubtedly love this model. Auscision is one of premier manufacturers for RTR Australian prototype models and the Indigenous NR class locomotives are nothing short of spectacular. I have even been tempted to purchase one of these, purely for display purposes, despite modelling primarily in N scale myself.

Your best option before you invest money in a 3D printer or laser cutter would be to try some designs and have these manufactured by others first. You can run your own 3D prints through Shapeways without necessarily putting them up for sale (although this might prove expensive given the Shapeways handling and shipping charges) or a local 3D print service (definitely likely to be cheaper, although the quality may vary). Similarly, this can be done with laser cut designs and local manufacturers who are likely to be able to produce larger sheets/designs (up to 2400 mm or 1200 mm x 600 mm) than on anything which you could reasonably produce at home (without significant expense). For 3D design software, there is a range of options, but that with probably the most shallow learning curve would be TinkerCAD (as its' focus is primarily educational) and for laser cutting, any SVG or vector design package would suffice (I have used Inkscape)

High school math tells me that a model with a 1 foot radius would be 3.14 ft^2 which seems to be bigger than the 2 ft^2. As such, it seems to come down to whether the 2 ft^2 measure is taken as absolute boundary of the model or total model foot-print. Nice pick-up

I'm pretty sure that I would have been one of those visitors after following this thread. Your use of 3D printing on this layout is nothing short of spectacular and this certainly was a driver for me to explore what designs you had on offer. I think the issue for me in purchasing anything however (if I recall correctly) was the designs would be too expensive, particularly given exchange (from AUD) and the subsequent delivery costs. Another option may be to look at Shapeways or Cults 3D as sales platforms as in these instances, customers have the possibility to link together purchases from multiple vendors.

For those who may have already downloaded this kit, Scalescenes has posted an email with some small updates: Instructions Step 137 - Should be 'Structure C' Kit Sheet 22 - 'Back wall A' should have been labelled 'Back wall C' The 'Glue Structure C Back wall A here' note on 'Back wall B' should be 'Glue Structure C Back wall C here' These corrections have also been included in the downloads for this kit.

I have started building this box file kit - For other Australians in the audience, Officeworks print on 120 gsm paper as standard (or 100 gsm if you use their self-print facilities) and can optionally print on 200 gsm paper which is suitable for the 'light card' kit components. Additionally, you can get 600 gsm and 1000 gsm card under the brand name 'Quill' which serve well for the medium and heavy card options (measuring approximately 1 mm and 1.8 mm in thickness each). My question for others who may have already completed this kit (or may have completed the industrial box layout), how have you secured the sector plate for the pivot rail to change between tracks? I am looking at putting this in a second box file which would align on the right of the first.

The description for this box file layout (and the industrial box file layout) talk of different track layouts being possible - Does anyone have an example of these? The only one that I have seen consists of a single point and separate straight track.

I have to say that I am loving this layout. I have a similar circular layout under construction in HO (whereas my preferred scale is N like that David has employed here), but I am amazed at the quality and speed with which you have been able to construct this layout. One question David - Where have you sourced your cars from? I am struggling to find sufficiently diverse range of modern vehicles (for my N scale layout)?

Definitely ripped paper.

While the best measure will however be that from your own stock on your layout much as you have described, I have been using the attached document which provides general clearance requirements between track and surrounding structures for different scales. Scale Guides.pdf