Triumph1050

So you can compare with the new one, here's the resin kit that follows the look of the Hatton's CAD drawings. The kit needed more items to be fitted. So I made up the hydraulic pipes and found some vac pipes for the buffer beam. Also have the new one on pre-order even if they may come out with this one later as the new model has more detail from the off.

Wow wow wow. The replacement front step arrived this morning. That’s the next day from sending Cavalex the request as was suggested. What after sales service. Luckily I sent a picture showing where it was missing from and the correct step has been sent. I did not realise they are a left and right item. Loco is now 100% Thanks to the Cavalex people in here for the help. Cheers all

1 hour ago, APT Fan said:

 

Sorry I've no idea what I'm looking for in that picture?

Hi missing step, on the left under buffer looking at the picture. You can see the one on the right side right of the buffer Its in black on this large logo and it would be in red on the other large logo model. Hope this helped Thanks

8 minutes ago, Wayne 56089 said:

I had the same thing, mine was stuck in the foam that covers the tray. 

Yeah I had a good look in the box and the foam Wayne, sadly no joy. Cheers

Hi folks, bit of a long shot this. After weeks of running my large logo 56120, I noticed I am missing the front step under the buffer beam. I made a video that I posted on my you tube channel almost as soon as I got the model and I can see it was missing from the start. hoping someone from Cavalex in here could maybe tell me if there's a chance I could get this small part. (and no I don't have a 3d printer)

Thanks all

5 hours ago, Mr Grumpy said:

Hi Cav Alex and all other delighted 56ers :-)

I have been playing with my gorgeous 56019 resplendent with red buffers.

Like most new owners I am more than over the moon with my loco, BUT believe it or not for my measly sized railway room, as fabulous as the sound is, it’s a tad loud for me. 
I would like to turn the sound down a little. I use a 20yr old Lenz 100 and wondered if anyone could be kind enough to let me know which CV(s) to tweak to adjust it?

Many thanks in advance:-)

Richard

 

CV63  default = 192

Spent all the afternoon playing with my large logo 56 on Torridon Road and I am delighted with it. 

Ok delivered this morning, nice and secured in its box, no loose bits. Looking stunning to me. Run in, details fitted and driver fitted. As a buying experience at buying a model, this has been a great one, as all has gone to plan and is now happily running around Torridon Road. Expect to see it on my YouTube channel soon. As far as I'm concerned ....... Great job Cavalex 

To Cavalex in here. Will be wanting to fit a driver as soon as mine comes. Can you tell me if it's straightforward to get to the drivers seat? Thanks

At 22 mins into the video you can see what's needed. The only difference is that I took the weights of this motor to clearly show what I did. 

Ahh well so finally it happened with 37608 Andromeda after 3 months of ownership and running on and off, the only one of the three I bought at the same time developed a motor fault. Watching it surging and looking at the volt meter spiking. Same as the other two now. So that's all the three I bought. A case of opening up the motor (no need to take the weights of the end)  there is just enough room to get in there and clean out the gaps between the plates on the commutator. A lot of muck removed, motor closed back up, all put back together and running sweet till the next time.

Well I guess the next question is...does anyone know how to strip the 37s down to get to the motor? That exploded parts diagram in the paperwork is to confusing to me. No I'm not going to send them back. I have the latest 3 models and have this issue on the two DRS versions of them The ROG model is still working fine (for now). In the past on other makes of models it all boiled down to the motor (including a Hattons 66) which when replaced has been fine ever since. Cheers

41 minutes ago, adb968008 said:

Try ekmexhibitions

 

https://www.ekmexhibitions.co.uk

they sell replacements

Thanks very much 

Hi people anyone know of a replacement motor that can be used in Bachmann class 66s and even class 37 Had to many fail on me under DCC.

Night time working

An old steam shed now offers shelter to a couple of 37s

(but would not like to be in there when they have a cold start up)  

Pretty sure that sound fitted Bachmanns use a modified ESU decoder which means it can't be reblown normally loaded with South West Digital sounds

20 minutes ago, bartram108 said:

What is the white bit on the front of 66152? Looks like a handrail that's melted.

Not sure what its called Bartram but its to do when using  the coupling Think it swings out to take the weight of the knuckle thats held of to one side when not in use. Here a pic of the real thing and you can see now the new lights. Fiddly to fit, was in the detail bag that most modellers don't bother to fit but I like to.

Some more

With new lights, theres a new look to some 66s out there, and seeing that the Bachmann 66 lights was already wanting I have set about upgrading some of my fleet and yes still retain the red rear lights as can be seen on the first two pics

29 minutes ago, Andy7 said:

Received 66623 and 66780 and have tested them both today. No issues per se to see without running them. When running 3 of 24 axel boxes fell off, now back on. No big deal. Excellent running, sounds and lighting as expected. So for me I have had 100% success with my 3 Hattons 66 locos.

 

As for the colour of 66623 I would say it is wrong but it isn’t anywhere near as light as 66413. I’m certainly happy with it.

Hi Andy, any chance you can pick me out the winning lottery numbers please

1 hour ago, TomScrut said:

 

 Do we want Hattons taking the bodies off given how easy it is to damage them?

For sure if your 66s body has white painted hand rails on the steps to the cab, you will need white paint. No way do you not loose paint having to unclip these rails before taking body on or off. After working on my two was hoping these would be OK. Seems only way to make sure I get a good one is to travel up to Hattons and have one opened up in front of me. Like I used to be able to with Modelzone. What you get using the internet 

29 minutes ago, Dicky L said:

I will let this photo speak for itself

 

 

Oh dear I see you have to get the glue out for the roof grill. Yes the more I see and read, think Ill give these a miss for now. Same problems with mine I had to put right