Ross Natoin

Hi everyone,

A little back story to kick us off, I was watching videos on YouTube of; Grantham the streamlined years, Little Bytham, Retford, London Road and Peterborough North and I noticed all/most of the suburban trains had at least one set of articulated coaches in them. 
 

I purchased the bundle of four suburban coaches and a peppercorn K1 from Hornby with an additional brake third recently and I looked at the brake third and third coach and my brain began thinking. 
 

So I had a look in a book I have called LNER Carriages by Michael Harris.  It has loads of information on all the types of LNER coaches post 1923 I believe. 
 

In that book I found the topic of articulated coaches. It talked about the Silver Jubilee, Coronation and other artic express stock but also about the suburban stock too. 
 

I got to reading it and discovered that I could use my Hornby Gresley suburban four compartment brake third and an eight compartment third to become a brake third artic pair.

So I looked for any specific requirements ie ten foot bogies etc but found the the original eight foot six inch bogie where more commonly used (for suburban stock). Result!! 

What happened next was to be expected, I got planning how I was to convert these over to an artic pair.

I used a piece of 2MM plastic card with a small 10BA bolt and two nuts, removed the brake pipes, buffers and hooks for the couplings and then drilled two holes in one of the spare bogies for the bolts to sit through. 
 

one of the 10BA nuts secured the bolt through the plastic card and the other helped to raise the coach to the correct height.

So with that all said I’ve attached some photos of the completed pair. They run beautifully and look the business. 
 

Next I’ll research some more on the under frames and modify those to suit but for now I’m happy with them.

Thank you for reading,

Ross

On 10/06/2021 at 14:25, ianLMS said:

For the valve gear, the fine brass "lace" pins I use come from the model ship building websites, 7mm or 10mm length. I think even Amazon sell them and they are definitely on Ebay. I also like the gold plated pins which DCC Concepts use with their point rodding kit. Perfect for the job. The paper washer method as used by Mr Wright on his video is exactly how I do it.

 

I prefer High Level Gearboxes and their new Coreless motors are very good as well. I see used Portescap motors fetch upwards of £60 on Ebay now. I am looking at trying the DJH motor/Gearbox combo as recommended and used by Mr Wright in all his kit builds. 

Hi, 

Thanks for that. I’ll look into high level gearboxes I’ve heard loads of good things about them.

Ross

On 04/04/2021 at 20:22, Theakerr said:

As far as motor and gearboxes are concerned I highly recommend spending the money and going with DJH.  I am anxious to try High Level and have an order in place but they are in the COVID hole at the moment and cannot supply.    Good communications from them  and I am willing to wait.  On my DJH  A2 valve gear, one side is soldered and one side is riveted.  I think the soldered side is better but it took me forever to find suitable pins (in Canada), most are steel covered with Brass and they do not work.  I have two old Portescaps doing nothing, one the small one that doesn't whine,  will hardly move a white metal tank loco and was replaced with a DJH combo and the other that will haul whines so badly that I can hear it at the far end of the house.  I have tried all the suggested cures none have worked although one I keep meaning to try is to put some old valve lapping paste on the gears.

Hi bud,

I intend to use a DJH motor on the WD as that’s a DJH product and I know one of their motors will fit it. 
 

As for the A2/1 I wanted to experiment a little as it’s a Crownline kit and just wondered what’s about on the market and what people thought of certain products. 
 

have you got a link to the pins you’ve used on your A2? On my Peppercorn  A2 i soldered to the rivet and it’s not a pretty picture if I’m honest. So I’m looking out for a better solution.

regards,

Ross.

On 04/04/2021 at 18:22, brossard said:

Those locos are looking pretty good to my eye.  Your title mentions Portescap but there is nothing in the text about that.  In any case, I understand that Portescap (these were motor/gearbox combos) has been discontinued.  They were great in their day but things move on.

 

I suggest you check out High Level.  I built some of their GBs and found them easy to put together and smooth running.

 

https://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/

 

John

Hi John,

I shall check out high levels stuff I’ve watched a video by the loco builder on YouTube and he speaks highly of these too. 
 

I used portescap in the title as they’re what I’m thinking of going over to but really I’m open to suggestions. 
 

I tend to use DJH motors and gearboxes when constructing DJH products so as the A2/1 is a Crownline kit I thought I’d experiment a little and see what else is about. I must of forgot to put that in the main thread. My apologies. 
 

Thank you for your comments on the locos, that’s very appreciated. These are my third (A2/1) and fourth (WD) builds and I’m glad they’re not too bad. 
 

thanks for the advice,

Ross.

Hi all,

its Question time again!! 
 

So having completed my DJH peppercorn A2 build, paired with the  subsequent arrival of my Hornby A2/2 and A2/3. I’ve started to build my crownline kit of an A2/1.

it’s coming along but I’m yet to complete the chassis owing to my desire to try a new type of motor and I was wondering what recommendations are there in terms of motor/gearbox combination would be recommended for a Crownline A2/1 and A1/1? 

Also How do people construct their valve gear? On my peppercorn A2 it’s a bit messy as I tried soldering the rivets on on piece allowing the other to move freely via the use of a paper washer. Following advise from the Right track series.
 

I’m trying to find the correct size of brass pin Tony Wright used in the video but no luck just yet. If anyone knows please tell me.
 

As the riveting method I’m trying now (small pin hammer and bending other the edges) is working but seems to be very sloppy. 
 

In the meantime, I’ve started yet another DJH build of a WD 2-8-0 Austerity loco. Tender of it is completed and the body is coming along nicely too. The drive for this will be DJH’s AM10 motor and gearbox assembly. 
 

the locos are intended to be 60507 ‘Highland Cheiftan’ and 90246.

future projects include a conversion of a Bachmann O4/1 into an O4/8 and building my Crownline A1/1 60113 ‘Great Northern’ into BR express passenger blue. 
 

any advice is greatly appreciated and I’ll keep you all posted on the builds. 
 

thank you,

Ross.

Hi all,

Some GOOD NEWS! As James May would say. I’ve managed to source a valve gear fret. It’s a DJH one too! 

Only cost me £12.50 and it’s on its way to me now. So fingers crossed this beautiful loco will be running.
 

At request of my source they wish to remain anonymous. So I politely ask please don’t ask me to reveal them as I will not be doing so. 
 

I shall post some pictures and hopefully a video of her when the valve gear is complete and she’s running as a complete locomotive.

but for now here’s where the build is currently at,

Cheers for all the support and suggestions along the way.

Ross.

On 24/01/2021 at 17:50, Ben Alder said:

Apparently SEF has been taken over by Squires and Dave is concentrating on the Nucast range only, and is in a bit of a hiatus just now with that. I don't know if Squires are going to continue to be as obliging as Dave was with regard to spares and bits from kits.

Yes this appears to be the case. It was stated in the email response I received. However I believe Dave has helped them gain the correct moulds to keep producing spares. 
 

Ross.

13 minutes ago, gr.king said:

 

I think the best course of action is to send a private message to Tony, as per his invitation above. He knows much more about the way the parts of these kits fit together.

I suspect that the visible outer parts of the SEF valve gear will be the easiest parts of the new package to adapt to the DJH loco, and that more ingenuity may be required to adapt the brackets to fit the chassis. Maybe the brackets from the A1 valve gear, that you seem to have, can be combined with the outer parts of the SEF A2 valve gear?

I'll leave the subject to Tony and others now.

Will do,

I’ve already left him a message with my contact details in there as per his request and I’ve also pinged a message to SEfinecast too. 
 

fingers crossed I can get her sorted soon as she’s almost completed it’s literally valve gear, paint the buffer beams red, lining, numbering and then nameplates and she’s done.

oh and weathering of course. 

Ross

1 hour ago, gr.king said:

 

Hello Ross,

 

I have not tried to substitute the parts myself, but others on here may confirm or contradict my suggestion: Perhaps the South Eastern Finecast A2 valve gear is adaptable to suit the DJH model? SE Finecast items have usually been available separately from the full kits, at reasonable prices. I think the A2 valve gear comes as part of an etch including the connecting rods, coupling roads and the central portion of the main chassis frames.

Hi,

I have emailed S.E fine cast and I’m just waiting their response. I’ve paired it to a Bachmann A2 and the wheel base is the same as their RTR product so I have been tempted to order the completed assembly and rods from them to fit to the kit.

Does that sound like it’ll work?

Ross.

Hi all,

I’ve made a thread regarding this but I was recommended to asks my question here. 

I've recently purchased and built an old K33 DJH Peppercorn A2 (old by the kit came with wheels) however sadly the kit came with the wrong fret of Valve gear and Connection rods. The ones supplied are of the K30 Peppercorn A1 kit. 
 

My question is who would be the best supplier of a new fret of valve gear? I’ve tried DJH but as I’m not their customer they probably won’t help me.

Here is some pictures of her during the build, please go easy this is only my second locomotive build. I’ve also added a photograph of the issue regarding the difference in the A1 and A2 Connection rods. 
 

The finished Locomotive will be 60527 ‘Sun Chariot’. 
 

Thanks in advance,

Ross

51 minutes ago, sjp23480 said:

 

I have found myself in similar predicaments in the past.  I suspect DJH will sell you a replacement valve gear etch, but it might not be that cheap.  As previously mentioned, Tony Wright is the "A2meister" (amongst other things) and can probably offer some sage advise if you PM him.  

I think that’s the best option I will ping him a message in regards to this and see what advise he has to offer. 
 

thanks again,

Ross.

9 hours ago, Blandford1969 said:

I'd second SE Finecast, you will be very lucky to get anything out of DJH, as you say your not their customer. The Alan Gibson fret is very much a generic valve gear so does not actually necessarily look like what you are after on the lifting links, I have sold the ones I had on. . I'm sure you could sell the A1 fret to anyone who needs a set for that kit

Hi,

Unfortunately I’ve part assembled the valve gear so it’s not in a state to be sold on as it’s my first time building walzarts gear (excuse the spelling mistake) do it’s not pretty. 
 

many thanks for your advice,

Ross

47 minutes ago, sjp23480 said:

Ross,

 

The other thread I referenced mentions something about the distance been the axles being "adjusted" by DJH, which might cause some compatibility issues with other suppliers components. 

 

It is probably worth a quick read: 

 

 

Stephen

Hi,

I’ve taken a look at the thread and I’m now just left with more questions than answers.

it could just be me being thick though so I’ll give a few more read throughs and see what I can grasp of it. 
 

many thanks for this information,

Ross
 

Hi all,

thanks for the advise. I’m going to message South eastern fine cast tomorrow and see if they can help me out of this jam. 
 

I will update you all if I hear anything from either company.

regards,

Ross.

My favourite class of steam locomotives I have four, numbers;

92189 DC 1F tender

92220 Evening Star DC 1G tender

92233 DC 1G tender

92249 DC 1B tender

I still need a single chimney variant as I want to make a Tyne Dock loco to go with my KR models rake of 9 Consett Ore wagons. Oh and a crosti! 
 

here’s my four,

Ross

Hi,

I’m not sure if it helps but on my Dapol class 52 I found the head codes are water slide transfers,

I cut mine down to size then slid them onto the outside of the model on the little panels. 
 

hope this helps,

Ross

1 minute ago, Steamport Southport said:

No idea about the DJH valve gear. Does it fit? Kits often used the same parts in other kits as a cost saving measure.

 

If you aren't getting anywhere try South Eastern Finecast. They do an A2 kit and are more amenable to selling parts than many other manufacturers.

 

http://www.sefinecast.co.uk/

 

Or Alan Gibson who have A2 valve gear listed.   4M52/19 LNER Class A2

 

http://www.alangibsonworkshop.com/

 

 

 

Jason

Hi Jason,

Thank you for your advise.

To answer your question yes I had the piston rod on the slide bar with a temporary fixed to the middle driving wheel and it had a tight spot at 3 o’clock so I thought I’d check the con rod between the drivers and found  the length between the wheels to be too long.
 

To the point where you couldn’t turn the wheels and the piston rod also was seen to bend at this tight spot. 
 

I will look into South Eastern Fine cast tomorrow and if DJH don’t wish to help me I’ll send them an email and see what they say.

thank you again for your help,

Ross.

Hi all,

I’m hoping someone could help me possibly? 
 

I recently purchased a DJH K33 peppercorn A2 kit via eBay. It was the old spec kit that came with its Romford wheel set. 

To cut a long story short. I’ve built the chassis as a jig to erect the body and the tender is complete.

The issue is the kit was NOS and it was mostly sealed and complete, missing parts to my knowledge was just the 1/8 wheel bearing which new ones were sourced via Markits.
 

One thing I noticed was the fret containing all the valve gear was for the K30 kit. 
 

the K30 kit is the Peppercorn A1 which the prototype has a larger diameter of driving wheel at 6 foot 8 inches. The prototype of the A2 has 6 foot 2 inch driving wheels. this intern means the connection rods and the piston rods are too long. 
 

I’ve put a request in to DJH requesting the valve gear fret for the K33 kit. However I doubt they’ll help me as I didn’t buy the kit from them. 
 

I have purchased the AM9 motor and gear box assembly from them for this kit. It’s almost complete so not being able to complete the kit due to this niggle is frustrating. 
 

this is only my second locomotive build so it’s not the prettiest but the it’s very smooth and free running and is substantially better than my first build of a DJH B16/1. 

My question after this waffling on is:

does anyone know of anybody who produces after market components or can produce new valve gear for a Peppercorn A2 via 3D printing? 
 

any help will be greatly appreciated,

regards,

Ross

P.S here’s some photos of the locomotive as the build progressed.