Holby Railway

On 28/04/2022 at 14:01, barney121e said:

Ok, now i'm a little confused. However will come back to that in a minute.

 

Firstly finally got a multimeter. Tested continuity on each wheel and one wasn't completing the circuit. As you can see from pic, it was the one on the bottom left . With a little wiggling managed to put back in right place and got continuity and train ran but it is having trouble staying in spot. Someone has done work on the top left one so my thinking is to maybe replace the plastic housing and re seat everything correctly. The copper contacts i think should be ok, but will see if i can get a replacement. 

 

Now a silly question. When power was on only one end of the worm motor, the thing on the bottom, ran. Is that because the other will work if running in reverse?

 

Now with regard to magnets, Should the magnet be replaced, or if motor is running should i just use one i have. And if it needs replacing, what do i get?

 

Cheers

 

PS Forgot to say, never done anything like this so well chuffed with myself so far.

 

 

in my opinion drop this troublesome thing, Hymeks are 10 a penny, get yourself another one, if like me the body is important swap the chassis, if not then bobs your aunt (these days he could be) for the record i have 3 working Hymeks and 1 not working motor is shot, but i have really no use for more than 2 its the liveries, so the fourth is surplus

On 15/03/2024 at 12:18, GrumpyPenguin said:

Bearing in mind you have waited a considerable time before trying to enlist help from "The MR Community" you are, to be blunt expecting far too much, especially from people you neither know or have met.

 

Good "Professional" layout builders will have plenty of work already in hand, the "Community" ones will be "time poor".

 

Although some distance away (I have family in the Midlands so accomodation is not an issue) I had considered offering to help for a contibution to my travelling expenses but held back to see if there was anyone closer, but, reading you comments, attitude & bitterness decided no way.

 

FWIW I will give you some advice - IMHO DCC may be the better option for the pointwork but I personally would only use new kit. maybe, you need to consider downsizing to a much simpler layout. You will certainly have to spend some money, one way or the other.

 

And converting locos to DCC (even "DCC Ready") ones for less than less than £2/pop, that's pure fantasy land.

Not sure im Bitter, Attitude was caused by a reason (i will not detail in public) im sure a consideration could be given to Travel Expenses, in exchange for the help, The Control Box for the points is now here, and as far as i can tell complete, i have the motors aswell, i obviously need wire / cable but that can be arranged at a later date, point motors will allow me to stay Analogue but get round my inability to stand and poor eyesight, if you are still willing to give me a chance you are welcome to email HOLBYCITYRAILWAY@GMAIL.COM all track work is 3 years old i bought it all brand new locos etc not new but that is entirely by the by, this is the last railway i will ever own and i want it to be the best i can manage.

Previously i was held to ransom by the person that was "helping" his attitude was always "its my way or no way" with everything, its my railway not his, all the money was mine, everything belonged to me so why was it his way or no way?

he is now long gone and will no longer be involved, i know what i want, and thats why im asking for help, should you be kind enough to help, you would find a great deal of work has already been done, and anything else can be discussed like gentleman.

at the moment the intention i still to begin dismantling as soon as possible, but the way things are at the moment that will not be until April too many things going on, i thought it would be easier to get help, but it seems i misjudged the MR Community, i was once told appeal for help to the wider community you will have more offers than you know what to do with.

Never Mind

Thanx Guys

HCR IS NO MORE

8 minutes ago, Phil Bullock said:

Pretty central in Brum then. Have you spoken to Redditch they are a friendly bunch . As Phil says a good plan to go and talk to them. It’s a shame their show was 2 weeks ago, that’s always a good opportunity 

Redditch is too far away no transport, i used to know Lodge Park & South Crest quite well, but that was 40 years ago

11 minutes ago, Phil Parker said:

 

When you say "tried", did you just email them the same appeal for help, or actually go down and meet them? If it's the former, most clubs receive a few of these a year and so they tend to be ignored as the members have joined to work on their own, or club projects. That's not to say some won't help, I know people who have done just that, but it helps to get to know people.

 

 

Looking at the plans, your stations will require multiple feeds and some isolation gaps. Not rocket science, but more than 2 wires. There are a lot of point motors though, so a lot of wire!

 

Good luck with this.

points are all insulfrog, so they isolate the relevant parts when needed, a control box has been built for for controlling the motors, i have not seen it yet, it was built a year ago, im told to expect it and the motors to be returned in the post within the week

yes i emailed them, i dont know where Solihull club is, but if i went by bus to these places its a long walk which i cant do, Warley i used to visit twice a year on the open days but Taxi is expensive plus this year i was injured and could not go, hoping for July tho, the amount of wire under the boards is not an issue, if it takes 6 months it takes 6 months, i dont know it beyond my understanding, i had an offer last March somebody reckoned they could do all the point motors in a day, but the sticking point was he wanted to fit DCC to everything, and i do not want it, he said could do all 108 locos for less than £50 total, but when i refused to go DCC he walked away....

im in B16

Tried MRC at Bournville, Solihull & Warley no response after 2 wks that why i posted on here,

Wiring is not as complicated as you may think being DC its just 2 wires, obviously point motors need to wired, if anybody wants to be part HCR that can be done, i have ideas that are parked for now but, of somebody came onboard (not with money) then maybe they could be looked at again

looks like im gonna selll up then

nobody anywhere willing to help, thanks guys

HCR is no more......

3 hours ago, Michael Hodgson said:

Those are Peco solenoid point motors, designed to fit under the point and clip into it, under the moving tie bar.

I'm too far away so I can't give you practical help to install them, but it may help if I explain a few of the options.

To fit them under the board it would be necessary to lift the track and cut a recangular hole to accommodate them.  This might be a bit difficult in a few places as it looks as though some are above a board joint, so there is presumably timber as well as baseboard material to cut.

 

An easier approach would be to use their point motor bases - sorry,  more equipment to acquire, not just wire !

https://peco-uk.com/products/turnout-motor-adaptor-base-with-over-centre-spring

these fit above the board, and you the clip the motor into them. It looks as though you have space to do this at least for some - sometimes other tracks etc make this approach unworkable.  They can be concealed by using somtheing like a lineside hut.

 

You also need a means of operating them.  There are several ways of doing this, individual point switches or levers ("passing contact" type) , perhaps a stud contact system on the control panel, maybe a diode matrix.   They will require a power supply - an auxiliary 16v supply on a power pack may be good enough, and a Capacitor Discharge Unit (CDU) may be helpful.

 

As regards the wire, each point is fed by three single core wires, one connecting each side to its controlling switch, the other side of which is connected to one side of the power supply, and the third wire is a common return which goes from all point motors to the other side of the power supply.   The total length would depend on the routing of the wires,

 

PS - it may be convenient to mount some above and some below the board, depending on practical issues such as baseboard framing problems.

Boards are fixed, they are more like shelves held up by brackets, everything under the boards can be moved, Station 1 is slightly more difficult in that it on a windowsill, built up (dont know how) underneath is accessible but the front of the board (blanking boards) need to be unscrewed for access then replaced, control is by switches, a box has been built (i do not have pics) and as far as i know the box is already prepared, switches in place and wired in, power will be provided by the controller, and has been tested once to be sure all was in working order, some adjustments to the railway may be possible to accommodate motors, but that is not something assessed so far - whoever does it, will be able to say what needs to happen or not as it goes, and will find everything easily discussed and then any issues can be resolved, they will find that much groundwork has been achieved so far but now things have reached a halt

Model Railways...... theres not much else is there ?  🚂

1 hour ago, ITG said:

Another key question or two, which will define the nature of the task.

Are your baseboards fixed in position or removable? If removable, how big are the baseboards? If fixed in position, are the cabinets etc below the baseboards removable?

These matters will go a long way to determine if it’s possible to easily access to (a) be able to fit below the board and/or (b) hide wiring and possibly rods if fitting above the board.

If the task becomes fitting above the board, then as indicated above, wiring will still ideally be below the board, but also how are the visible point motors to be disguised in an already existing layout.

Do any of the location for said motors conflict with underboard bracing or other cabling etc?

Had you thought how to control these motors? Switches? Mimic panel? Where would either be located/mounted?

 

It’s important to define what the task actually is, as whoever helps needs to be clear about what is expected. I don’t want to throw cold water on your plans, but I personally would not want to fit 20 odd motors below the board IF the baseboards are fixed.  It’s quite some job, of being bent under looking upwards to some time. But good luck.

Ian

Boards are fixed, they are more like shelves held up by brackets, everything under the boards can be moved, Station 1 is slightly more difficult in that it on a windowsill, built up (dont know how) underneath is accessible but the front of the board (blanking boards) need to be unscrewed for access then replaced, control is by switches, a box has been built (i do not have pics) and as far as i know the box is already prepared, switches in place and wired in, power will be provided by the controller, and has been tested once to be sure all was in working order, some adjustments to the railway may be possible to accommodate motors, but that is not something assessed so far - whoever does it, will be able to say what needs to happen or not as it goes, and will find everything easily discussed and then any issues can be resolved, they will find that much groundwork has been achieved so far but now things have reached a halt

sorry guys i did not realise i had not posted enough detail, i shall attempt to correct this, firstly i have lived here 40 years so im in no hurry to go anywhere else, im only just 60 so old folks home is not an option, but then, it never will be (i hope).

Right basics, HCR (Holby City Railway) is a DC 00 gauge railway (not doing DCC) ideally i would like the motors under the board but will bow to experience if they have to be above then c'est la vie, it is horseshoe shaped, with runround loops at both ends and a passing loop with sidings in the middle, i shall endeavour to attach relevant pics now, as for what type they are, im sorry i dont know, it was a job lot off Flea Bay, 28 in total, im not sure but i think we only require 22 to be connected, once i know how much wire and what sort i would purchase it so other than solder and labour all expenses should covered.

recently i purchased several point motors, somebody i knew was going to do the job, over a year later its still waiting to be done, when challenged last week he said it wont be ready to start for at least another year, so i got rid of him.

is there anybody on here PLEASE that would be willing to fit them for me, (currently im awaiting their return) they do not have any wiring but, if somebody tells me what wire and how much is needed it can be provided, im not expecting the work to be done free, but i do have a budget, im in Birmingham, anybody feel like helping please, i think there are 28 altogether.....

There are many issues why i cant do them

A) i dont do soldering

B) i dont understand electrics

C) i have mobility issues which prevent me standing for any period of time, thats the main reason i need point motors.

D) eyesight no longer sufficient to do this type of work even if i could

PLEASE CAN ANYBODY HELP ME ?

21 hours ago, adb968008 said:

“Western Beast” might be a better name.

yes its Western Consort

really so far i have to go with 69 009, but if they dont do it, then 69 005 looks the best so far, probably for renumbering as 69 017 hoping they dont pass 69 016

On 23/01/2024 at 00:01, SRman said:

If it is a green or plain blue version, then not having corridor connections is more accurate, they were only fitted to the whole unit in their later lives.

 

For the power bogie derailing problem, firstly check the wheel back to back measurements to make sure they are within the correct gauge (14.2 to 14.3 mm would be ideal). Also, check the free movement of the bogie to turn. The Lima bogies often get a bit stiff and jam in either the straight ahead or the turned positions. Finally (for me, anyway), check the traction tyres: if they are missing, the wheels will have a groove in the tread which can jam on the rail head, causing derailments. If they are missing, replace with equivalent spares, or use Bullfrog Snot, or simply fill the groove with something to level the wheel tread.
 

i believe its called "Provincial Livery" basically i had a 110 i didn't want, and somebody had a 117 they didn't want so we swapped,

back2backs are fine i have a gauge

tyres are fine, nearly new by the looks of them, ill check the stiffness and see what that's like, she's been stationary since she failed her test in 2022, parked in a bay, i have even tried her with the 121 at one end to make a 4 car unit but with 2 power cars, the 121 doesn't like the 117 & therefore derails when used with it, but when the 121 runs alone, she's fine.....

ill reply to all in one go (easier) Traction Tyres are fine, back2backs are fine, i have a back to back gauge, she derails when pulling the other 2 cars but is worse when pushing, i've tried adding my 121 at the dummy end to create 2 power cars (as it were) this was a common sight when i lived out at Dorridge, always The Bubble leading, im sure i don't know what the answer is, i used a mixture of Bachmann & Hornby track (all brand new, oldest track is 2022 youngest is 2024), i do not think temperature is a problem as the railway is in the main room (horse shoe shaped around the outside, boards are MDF and 18 inch (45.72cm) wide

not finding corridor connections anywhere, most bodies have had them removed, plus mega expensive

i have a Lima Class 117 DMU bought about 3 years ago, foolishly 1 run counted as checked, but i since found problems, Corridor Connections are missing from the Centre Car, and the power bogie just will not stay on the rails, can anybody help please

i have a Lima Class 117 DMU bought about 3 years ago, foolishly 1 run counted as checked, but i since found problems, Corridor Connections are missing from the Centre Car, exhaust pipes are missing (i have a lead on them) but the power bogie just will not stay on the rails, can anybody help please

Ive noticed recently on SM that several people are modelling Clans now, this set me thinking,

What are the visual differences between Britts & Clans, with exception of experts would a Britt pass as a Clan in 00 gauge

On 25/05/2023 at 22:51, nightstar.train said:

 

The Bachmann release is 08800, I think Holby Railway has made a typo (twice). 

sorry to disappoint, i have not made a typo, my 08 is 08 880 the fact she is crapped is perfect as i only go for loco numbers that no longer exist

too kind THANKS 😇

Thank you, so now the question is did 08 880 carry this livery, i shall now leave her alone anyway as i know now at least one did carry it 😇

slightly off topic, i just purchased a Bachmann class 08 (08 880) in Inter City Swallow livery, is this a spoof or did any 08's actually carry Swallow Livery ?

sad news the guy that was doing my engines, has died, im now on the look out for a new guy, somebody that can do rebuilds etc,

On 15/04/2022 at 14:09, DCB said:

 I guess it should read    " looking for a loco powered 9F,  body condition doesn't matter," 

Everybody want's one. Loco drive runs so much better than the tender drive and the body is a direct swap.   eBay's the obvious place but it won't be cheap (by my standards).   I guess a Patriot body on a 9F chassis might form the basis for passable "Bertha."   If I made one I am sure a Ready to Run version in four different liveries would be available long before I finished.

not going for a Ba****d the chassis (obtained) is being used as are the wheels, nothing else is kept, the rest is being scratch built by "my guy" starting later this year as he has 2 of mine and 6 others ahead of it, delivery expected in 2024

Im hunting for 9F MUST BE LOCO POWERED, it is to form the basis of 58100 Big Bertha, body condition is not important its helpful if it works but im not greedy, Loco Powered as complete as possible with Tender, if you can help email HOLBYCITYRAILWAY@GMAIL.COM