Class158

Thanks for the quick response. I thought it might of expired. 

Unsure whether the bit.ly link is supposed to still work, but it doesn't work for me anymore. Is it just me or has it happened to anyone else? Has the link been removed?

Gone but not forgotten - finally decided to remove the 47 from the running and just sell it when I get round to it. RIP☠️

On 14/06/2020 at 18:57, Class158 said:

I’ve been writing a lot about my Lima 47 and I’m planning a motor replacement :

 

Would a CAD motor frame be a good idea so I know how to re-gear my motor?

Admittedly, it is very hard to learn CAD so I think this might be back to drawing board 

On 27/11/2021 at 20:52, The Johnster said:

Like I've said before, Hats and Gostude need their own threads...

To be honest, my very own Express Sprinters (158s) deserve their own thread due to their breathtaking (in a bad way) prices 

On 28/10/2021 at 23:22, Ron Ron Ron said:

“Not terribly helpful” to you, but being unable to resist the pedantry urge, technically and conceptually, DCC controllers and decoders are the same thing. i.e. the little thing that goes inside of a loco.

 

Having unnecessarily exercised that uncontrollable urge……

……..as the others have said above, All DCC systems “should” work with all DCC decoders, provided they conform to the DCC standards.

In reality, there are occasional mismatches between certain systems and certain (usually low cost) decoders.

There’s also the occasional rogue example of a usually reliable decoder.

 

What should be more important to you, is using good quality decoders from the “better DCC brands”.

 

 

.

Your joking, it was actually very helpful. I will be more careful in my wording in future!

On 26/11/2021 at 15:03, The Johnster said:

Wow, an opportunity to own, um, stuff for landfill?

 yes that climate change problem actually originated in this hobby!

Here’s some Hatton’s madness I suppose (probably worse price on eBay though):

Oh and let’s not forget our other 150 fiend: 

Both laughably high prices that only the serious modeller will pay. And then we wonder why our hobby is dying out... 

It’s our fault for asking for every rivet perfect... 

I think it may work with a bit of the good ol’ elbow grease and as little as possible cutting, and with luck, it will work.

So...

I have had enough of DC’s so am considering a DCC move. As a newbie to DCC (and modelling actually!!) I need to know whether you can use different brands of decoders and controllers. So can I use a Lenz decoder on a Hornby loco and using a Bachman controller? And if so is there any exceptions?

I am currently building a layout and have found a free piece of chipboard from a scrapyard. It is perfectly intact and meets all my requirements. However, I am worried about the thickness of it. It is roughly 2cm thick. Is this a regular size? And if not can I work with this?

Does anyone know how to remove/replace a Hornby coupling. Is there a screw or bolt? I am working on a Hornby Class 47 Intercity but I also have a NetworkSouthEast Lima 47 with a similar coupling that needs replacing. 

@DavidCBroad 

On 01/04/2021 at 15:55, DavidCBroad said:

The contents of my scrap box tell a different tale, If run at low speed and with heavy loads the PCB disc that serves as a commutator burns away, the brush holders get hot and work loose in the end frame, the gears which can be replaced wear and the gear stub shafts which can't be replaced also wear. The gear wear is a lot less with smoother running computer motors.

If run at 100 scale mph with light trains they last a lot better.

I completely agree. Today I decided to service my 47 as it has been roughly a year since I have ran it for any long period more than around 15 minutes. It started well but hissed and smelt of overheating electrics at low speed. Upon further investigation the brushes had been almost melted in the heat of an unventilated Lima motor casing. Cleaning the commutator helped and powering it to full speed whilst not on the track seemed to give it new life. However, the commutator brushes had reduced in size by almost half. Hopefully, by replacing the brushes and springs it should help as an interim measure, but I probably will buy a Hornby Ringfield motor for eventually replacing the old Lima. I have also taken the decision of temporarily retiring my 47 and replacing most of its passenger services with another 47’s and replacing its shunting/ freight work with a 08 shunter I bought recently with exactly this thought in mind.

It (I hope) is working fairly well if I do have to set my speed controller to about 25 mph before it moves. I think it probably would be best refitted. Fortunately for the motor I am planning a possible refit of every one of my locos to DCC and will probably need a spare motor for the conversion or if anything goes wrong. 

On 09/05/2020 at 11:45, APT Fan said:

Good Morning, I've just joined the forum and this is my first post, so please don't be too hard on me!

 

I couldn't see an 'Introduce Yourself' thread, so I'll provide a bit of context on my background. I use to have a nice setup in the mid 80's whilst I was a teenager and recently I uncovered some of my old set during a loft clearance which consisted of an APT, 2 HSTs, a Deltic  and an 09 shunter, plus a bit of rolling stock. I thought I'd have a go at restoring the set whilst sticking to that mid 80's theme. The Deltic is green and doesn't appear to match the era, so I've just bought a blue Lima Class 47 which needs a bit of work.

 

The Lima Class 47 needs replacement buffers, which I've read on here actually forms part of the fixings between the chasis and the body. I've sourced the replacements but I don't like the look of them as they are cast metal and don't look to be finished very well. I've also seen some 'Hornby Class 47 buffers' which look much nicer and are plastic - will these fit?

 

Also, I have a question on fitting these with them being part of the fixtures between body and chasis, are these to be glued in?

 

  

 

 

Hello I’m new too but I am missing a buffer off a Lima 47 and mine to remove the body you need to remove the buffers no need to glue I am a newbie to modelling so please tell me how to get buffers and if you wanted to know I am replacing my buffers (as they are green which sticks out like a sore thumb).

23 hours ago, crompton 33 said:

47 buffers . Peters spares Lima L5627- 06.  https://www.petersspares.com/lima-l5627-06-round-large-buffers-for-class-20-class-47-pk4-black-shaft-oo-gauge.ir

They’re sold out. Anyone know any other place to buy them?

I’ve been writing a lot about my Lima 47 and I’m planning a motor replacement :

Would a CAD motor frame be a good idea so I know how to re-gear my motor?

Could I buy buffers for the class 47 if yes please tell me where to buy them! (P.s I am an OO gauge modeller )

The motor when running starts to pong of burning is this normal 

By the way if anyone wants it I have this guide to servicing Lima motors:

lima service.pdf

Ok I have got a Lima class 47 and am planning to replace its motor 

(see above about that topic)

anyway I’m thinking about modifying it and would like some tips/inspiration (without converting to DCC) 

I’m new to model railwaying and am using a Lima class 47.

But it stopped working  got it  

working but it seemed a little bit wrong. It’s motor was clicking so I oiled it but it still clicked. I looked into motor repair, took faceplate off motor and cleaned brushes, replaced faceplate and ran it. It ran better but still clicked. I also noted sparks possibly from brushes. 
 

Please tell me how to replace a Lima ringfield motor ,what the  is making the clicking and sparks and should I replace with a Hornby ringfield motor.