Beechwood Model Railway

On 14/09/2012 at 22:49, Horsetan said:

I forgot how presentable Jimmy Savile could look.

Just goes to show, all these years later and with what we now know, how easily looks can be deceiving!

Buffers Query

Can anyone advise me as to the correct buffers used on British Rail Southern Region (so including stations like Waterloo, London Bridge, Victoria, East Croydon, etc) late 70s and early 80s?

I'm partial to the Accurascale Rawie Friction Buffers, as pictured, but not sure if they were introduced after this era?

Any photo references would be appreciated too. TIA.

19 minutes ago, APOLLO said:

 

Not quite as big as the Euston one though !!!

 

A model one

 

 

Brit15 

I think that’s the one from Shelvington?

Hello all

I’m modelling a OO gauge 70s/80s layout and want to feature the old-style Solari split-flap destination boards on my platforms and a large display in the station entrance hall.

Whilst the new Train Tech working and programmable LCD boards look amazing, they’re totally wrong for my era.

I still have fond memories of standing on the platform hearing the whirring and clack-clack-clack as the slats span round, me hoping it would show my destination and platform... only for it to stop on something like “Train Delayed” or “Await Further Information”!

Has anyone seen these being sold or modelled over the years? Obviously due to the size I’m not expecting to buy or make a working version, but a sound module situated nearby could provide the necessary audible effect.

Just looking for any guidance, pointers or reference material. Couldn’t find much online.

TIA.

Thank you for the advice  — my initial thought based on logic and common sense seem to be mirrored in what you all say. Manual drilling to maintain control and prevent excessive vibrations, snagging or overheating, plus sharp bits (I tend to use Bosch drill bits for most applications).

I'll report back in due course!

Thanks Les, that's good to know. I'll give it a try, and of course gently-gently!

Hi all,

Looking for advice please about drilling into Bachmann and Hornby resin buildings.

I want to install working lights to the exterior of some buildings, which I'm estimating will require 1.00 - 1.5mm holes to poke the wires through. Has anyone else attempted this? Does the resin drill easily or crack? I'm thinking of using a pin vice, of course, not a power tool.

I've attached an example photo of the Viessmann 6087 light — which would look great on a cottage located next to the front door. And the Bachmann 4-Road Engine Shed would benefit from replacing the supplied dummy lights with actual working versions!

Many thanks,

Neil.