Flunter

Hi.

I've recently purchased and installed a second-hand (but unused) Heljan 89121 turntable that has a couple of quality issues.

Firstly, there's a slight twist in the deck causing just 3 wheels to be in contact with the track.

Second, the centre of the bowl is ever so slightly high, giving an almost rocking motion to the deck. If a loco is off-centre and sat at the non-driven end of the deck, motion is very juddery.

Has anyone overcome such issues, and if so, how?

Thanks in advance.

Phil.

6 minutes ago, WIMorrison said:

Solution posted on iTrain forum for you

And reply posted ☺️

Thanks, Iain. I did actually think of that after posting here. I'll pop over to the iTrain forum now 👍

Hi all.

As the title, I run iTrain with the Z21 black and, rightly, or wrongly I've just purchased the Heljan Turntable 89121 and really struggling to get my head things.

The TT is installed and working. The instructions do say that it should be connected to the controllers Boost outputs, as far as I can see the Z21 doesn't have any, so it's currently connected to the regular Bus wire.

iTrain is controlling the TT to a certain extent, I can click an exit on the iTrain screen and the TT will move to it, however, things fall apart when routing locos. The TT will move to totally different exit, and there's also the issue of the TT not having a feedback, the loco continues to run on.

Is there another product needed to use the TT automatically, or do I simply operate manually?

Thanks in advance.

15 hours ago, melmerby said:

The info in iTrain is AFAIK just displaying what the Z21 normally provides anyway but displaying it in the iTrain environment.

That is correct.

As I have now learnt, the Z21 Maintenance Tool, iTrain, and probably TrainController, are all capable of displaying in real-time your layout power usage.

The benefit of using the iTrain environment is that the display is in a floating window, so I don't have to leave the program for the information. Anyone want to buy an Alpha Meter? 

1 hour ago, WIMorrison said:

Double click on Z21 at the bottom right.

Found it, thank you 

I've removed the Alpha Meter as it clearly isn't needed when using iTrain.

My issue was, when using automatic routes, iTrain would randomly neglect to operate points even though the route had been reserved, this would obviously cause a short when the train reached the point. Since removing the Alpha Meter I've just completed a 2 hour automated running session of 4 trains without issue, and the voltage is steady at 14.5 - 14.7 

Now to watch video no. 42 

21 hours ago, WIMorrison said:

If you iTrain then you can see the voltages, track current, etc within iTrain, and you don't need this 'gadget'

 

Hmmm, I can't seem to find that window within iTrain 

4 hours ago, Richard Johnson said:

...this version has been on sale for a while now.

A while? How do I know if I have a Railcom compatible product, it was purchased new around 3 months ago?

Thank you for the comprehensive reply BTW.

I've watched the tutorials from the start, they truly are invaluable 

Haha, I hadn't realised that. Something else to check out 

3 hours ago, WIMorrison said:

Your only solution is to disable Railcom in the Z21 as DCC Concepts will not address this known problem.

I'll give that a try, thank you for your help.

Such a shame DCC Concepts aren't willing to address the issue, I use iTrain and tend to rely on Railcom quite a lot.

Hi all.

I have a question regarding my Z21 Black.

As you can see from the video, the voltage fluctuates considerably between 12 and 14v, as the title, is this normal?

There is nothing on the layout. I've adjusted the Z21's output down to 14v because of an issue I was having with some DCC Concepts IP Digital point motors getting damaged, thankfully, the voltage reduction has solved that issue.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you everyone for the replies.

I had my fears that the brightness would be factory set without any option to adjust. The loco I have is the DCC sound factory-fitted model, I really don't fancy messing with the decoder, not to mention the extra expense. Not having a firebox flicker is no big deal, but as it's there we should be able to see it.

Thank you also for the iTrain input, I'll pop over there and pose my question 

Hi all,

Can anyone cleverer than me (that'll be most of you then) advise which CV I need to change to increase the brightness of the firebox flicker, I've done the usual search but struggling to find any info? The brightness level out-of-the-box is ridiculously low.

The model I have is the sound-fitted version (the sound is excellent BTW), fitted with a Zimo decoder.

On a separate note; are there any iTrain wizards on the forum? If so, where would I post questions, if at all? I am aware iTrain has its own forum.

TIA

Addition.

I've just noticed my Hornby B17 is buzzing at a standstill, this too has a Hattons 8 pin decoder fitted. Trouble is, I've no idea if it was buzzing before the Class 26 issue or not 

Evening all,

I've just received from Hattons a Heljan Class 26 for my (not insignificant) birthday. I already had 2 Hattons' own 8 pin decoders that were the recommended type.

I installed the first decoder and successfully changed the loco address, the loco ran like a dream. I love this thing, or at least I did.

After running for around 15 minutes I stopped the 26 and noticed a slight buzz/hum coming from the body. I paid little attention to it and proceeded to have iTrain read the CV values (my controller is the Z21) with a view to speed-profiling the loco. The decoder instantly blew and shorted the system!

I've now installed my final decoder, it gets rather warm after running and still buzzes at a standstill, obviously I'm reluctant to do a CV read again.

All my other locos are running as sweet as a nut.

Is there anything I can do or is it a case of returning the 26 to Hattons?

TIA

Phil.

9 minutes ago, WIMorrison said:

https://www.dcctrainautomation.co.uk/

8 minutes ago, PaulRhB said:

Coastal dcc are my favoured supplier now because Kevin seems to restock faster and his service is excellent although I’ve had good service from Digitrains too

Thank you both, I'll have a look 

11 hours ago, jpendle said:

a hard reset of the decoders might help

How would I go about doing a hard reset?

11 hours ago, jpendle said:

the various Zimo non sound decoders for 20 pounds are extremely good value

Don't suppose you could point me to a supplier... I did say I was new to all this  

Just now, Michael Hodgson said:

Not that I use them but it would never have occurred to me that a simple track connector could do that.

Me too.

It came (several actually) with the Hornby set track I bought to test the Z21 while I'm waiting for track to be delivered, it seemed natural to me to make use of it. That tiny item has cost me the difference between my second-hand Z21 and a new one. That said, I'd still have used the connector with a new Z21, not knowing any different.

33 minutes ago, Ron Ron Ron said:

Just for confirmation, have you resolved the problem by removing the Hornby track connector ?

Yep, the connector was the problem. Track power is now a steady 14.9 volts across the rails.

My faith in the Z21 has been restored, who would have thought that something so simple could have caused so many issues (and now cost me £££s in new decoders  ).

The Mallard is now running well, although the sound no longer works but I can live with that.

The Dean Single is as jerky as it ever was, but still running.

The Class E1 J72 will no longer run forwards, only backwards, and then it's all or nothing, so I guess a replacement decoder is called for.

Because the Ruston & Hornsby 48DS 0-4-0 actually popped and flashed I haven't bothered trying it, safe to assume the decoder is cream-crackered.

Thank you to everyone that contributed to getting my issue resolved 

Phil.

1 minute ago, BokStein said:

BTW, I hope your voltage measurements are on your meter's AC scale?

It is indeed.

Just sitting down for tea then I'll get the soldering iron out and make a better connection, will report back shortly.

5 minutes ago, jpendle said:

What colour is the light on the Z21? It should be blue for normal operation, green for programming, and flashing red for a short

All of the above applies.

As said, I'm no electrical wizard but I do find it odd that the Maintenance tool is showing a steady 14.9v.

1 minute ago, BokStein said:

You said the old style Hornby connector? The R602?

 

GET THAT AWAY FROM ANY DCC SYSTEM!

Is there a chance that could be causing problems?

3 minutes ago, jpendle said:

BTW are you using the Main Track output on the Z21 or the Prog Track output?

I've tested the voltage on the Main Track only. I used the Prog Track to programme the locos only, this was done by simply swapping the output on the back of the Z21 from Main to Prog. The unit is connected to my track using the old style Hornby  power connector, the one that pushes into 2 slots between the rail and the sleeper.

I do appreciate you trying to help.

Just now, jpendle said:

What do you mean by switching the rails?

With the red multimeter probe on the outer track and the black on the inner it shows 25.1v, with the red multimeter probe on the inner track and the black on outer it shows 10.5v. 

3 minutes ago, jpendle said:

Also you can't measure a DCC voltage with a standard multimeter because of the way the DCC signal is transmitted. BUT the voltage you measure should be consistent.

I am absolutely no electrical wizard and completely new to DCC, my last layout was 50 years ago when I was 10.