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Lansdown4141

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Posts posted by Lansdown4141

  1. 2 hours ago, Pete the Elaner said:

    With DC, the right hand rail should be positive, so the red wire goes to this side & the black to the other.

    With a decoder inserted, orange should be between the decoder & motor's 'red' terminal & grey from the decoder to the motor's 'black' terminal.

    I don't understand why it should hesitate with the decoder around the wrong way. The wrong lights may work but it should run fine.

    You can change the direction the decoder considers 'forward' with some basic programming. Some handsets allow you to do this through a menu but you can do it manually.

    Read CV 29. This variable does a few different things (DCC on/off 28-128 speed steps, long loco address) so you don't want to just set a value because you could be changing other things.

    If CV 29 is even, add 1. If it is odd, take 1 away.

     

    Here is a useful tool to decipher CV29:

    http://www.2mm.org.uk/articles/cv29 calculator.htm

    Thank you for your help and advice. I have a select decoder that had new software in it. I changed the 8 pin back. I then followed a guide on You Tube about CVs & it now works correctly.

     

    • Like 1
  2. The loco is DCC ready. Is there a special DCC decoder or will any Hornby DCC decoder do? Or is there another make?

     

    Is there a sound decoder that won't break the bank? Ive noticed one around £140-00 but it's too much for my needs, other wise what would be the nearest Hornby one to the LOTI sounds. If I went the sound route is there a place for it in the tender?

     

    Thanks for any help.

  3. 5 hours ago, Rowsley17D said:

    This, I think,  is the service sheet for your type of loco

     

    https://support.Hornby.com/hc/en-gb/article_attachments/360016265379/hss_349_thomas_0-6-0.pdf

     

    The part you have photographed appears to be one unit and is not meant to be separated, although since Hornby supplies the worm (that goes on the motor) and worm wheel (which goes on the axle) it should be possible to remove the worm from the motor cradle unit.

    Yes thats it. I guess I have to just cut & re solder.

  4. 8 hours ago, Rowsley17D said:

     

    Can you ease the end prongs opposite the worm first? I don't have this motor/engine so I'm working off other Hornby models.

    Thanks. As I said it seems the motor was dropped into a matching plastic surround. Normally it would just pull straight up, but a cable is attached to the motor. If you look at the second photo, on the left is a copper 'wire'. It is connected to a cable. Is it just a pull off, or a solder, or should I snip it & re solder it. This is holding me up as I don't want to make a mistake. I don't want to snip it if it's a simple pull, I don't want to pull to hard in case it is connected & damages the motor.

  5. 1 hour ago, Rowsley17D said:

    If you carefully ease back the plastic prongs from one end first and release that motor end, then the motor should pop out of the prongs at the other end.

    Thanks. Between the 'worm screw' & the actual motor is a plastic 'wall' so the motor can only move upwards, but there are wires that look like soldered to the side in the way. I don't want to go any further until I am sure I do the right thing. So my guess is I have to unattach the cables.

  6. 34 minutes ago, Michael Hodgson said:

    If we are talking about an old X04 motor, there is a special tool you can get called a worm puller to get the worm off the shaft.  It can be done using pliers, but you have to be very careful to avoid damaging the armature.

    Thank you. It's the 0-6-0 tank in the Hornby mixed freight set. My next question was going to be the worm on the motor, but first I want the wheels separated so I can replace the worm wheel, any ideas?

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