nbaker

Hi,

Does anyone know if there is a colour match (or close) available to match the Goathland Station red?

Stationcolours.com suggests Tamiya Red Brown, I have that but its way too brown and not a match.

Many thanks

Nigel.

Had another play with Anyrail and got as far as I can with the demo version.

The right of the hidden? sidings would mirror the left, and the front part would be joined using flexi track.

Points in the plan would be changed to electro frog so this would throw things out again as they are different size to the setrack ones, but this is only a rough plan and I know things will need spacing out in the station area and industrial are to suit the buildings which I am in the process of building.

I think I would also like 2 lines in the front scenic area, would this be better to mirror the 1st track (not on plan) or go a different route?

Many thanks for that it has certainly given me another perspective that I hadn't thought of and I very much like the idea.

Is that the Metcalfe retaining wall you are using?

I did think about have a full length retaining wall with road and terraced houses/shops etc so maybe I can combine this into the plan somehow

Thank you for all of your replies and suggestions so far.

I will be fitting a backscene on the left industrial area and along the main layout which will take approx 2.5 inches from the width of the board and will fill the left corner with buildings so I should need to worry about reaching over too much.

I was aiming for all three sections to be connected as one layout.

I like the idea of hidden sidings but again would have no idea how to implement then.

I wasn't planning on having a fiddle yard but did consider briefly using the narrow right hand section for this, and I could easily extend the width of this if needed.

2 stations is not a necessity  and I agree the 2 would be too close together. 

12 hours ago, Pete the Elaner said:

Since it is your first layout, don't try too much. You will get stuck with a few things (we all do) & your enthusiasm will slowly drain away until you run a train for the first time...which is extremely rewarding.

 

It sounds like you have a good idea of what you want, but just not how to arrange the track? I find maps are good inspiration. The National Library of Scotland's website has a lot of OS maps from different points in time. Many are good enough for you to see track arrangements & possibly pick some elements from different locations.

 

 

Thank you for taking the time to reply.

I have seen plenty of my nice layouts in magazines & online but I have trouble recreating the elements in Anyrail.

12 hours ago, KingEdwardII said:

Are the dimensions on your plan showing a max size of 3.50m x 2.20m ?

 

Yours,  Mike.

Yes the plan is to scale and the baseboard is the maximum size I could realistically fit into my spare room,

Hi,

I have recently started building my first model railway, I am in my 50's and have trouble planning things (my brain doesn't work like it used to).

I have constructed my baseboard and have an idea of the elements that I want to include but I have no idea how to combine them into a useable layout.

I am using Peco OO setrack & flexi track with DCC control, and am going for the steam era during the 1930's-40's using small locos such as the Peckett, Barclay etc.

From left to right I am thinking of an industrial/wharf area with 2-3 dedicated lines in, the centre baseboard I would like a small country station with scenic/cuttings etc and the right hand side a small branch line station.

I am having great trouble designing what I picture in my mind and any help would be very gratefully received

I must setup a temporary loop and get her running round in circles whilst I'm building my Scalescenes kits.

I have bent the pickups so they make contact with all 4 wheels, and also gave them and the wheels a clean with isopropyl and now she's running properly.

Many thanks for all your help.

56 minutes ago, Butler Henderson said:

To ensure the pick ups are correctly aligned have the loco upside down and push a driving wheel  to the limit of its movement away from the chassis. If the pick up is no longer bearing on the back of the wheel use a small jewellers flat head screwdriver to hold it on the back of the wheel and with another gently push around the mid point if the visible length of the pick up strip to form enough of bend in it so that the pick up stays bearing on the back of the wheel when you remove the screwdriver.Repeat on the other three driving wheels.

Thank you that is very helpful.

There is some play in the wheels and the pick ups are only making contact on one side at any time.

16 hours ago, Butler Henderson said:

Best to test on dc first, with the decoder removed, even if its just a length of track with a suitable up to 12v dc supply (surplus PSU or PP3 battery). Are all the pick ups bearing on the wheels okay. If its runs okay on dc then its probably the decoder.

Unfortunately I only have a DCC controller.

11 hours ago, SM42 said:

Is the track clean?

 

Andy

Yes, new Peco setrack.

Hi,

I recently purchased a new Hornby Peckett W4 (my first loco) and decided to give it a test run. 

I don't have a layout yet so just setup a basic end to end track to try it out and it doesn't run very well at all, it's very jerky at low speed that's if it moves at all some times I have to give it a nudge or gentle wiggle it to the left or right to get it going then if it is running say forward and I stop the loco and go into reverse it refuses to move again without assistance.

Is this because the loco needs running in or is there something else wrong with it?

I am using a Gaugemaster Prodigy Express DCC controller and the loco is fitted with a Hornby 4 pin decoder

Many thanks

Nigel.

Well I have now ordered a Hornby 4 pin decoder for this loco which will be fine until I know a bit more about these things, the 2 Zimo's wont go to waste as will be fine for future loco's.

Thanks everyone.

Trust me to pick the wrong one (again), oh well I'm not too bad with a soldering gun.

3 hours ago, Butler Henderson said:

The MX616N is a 6 pin direct fit so not the best choice

So what would be a good choice?

I have ordered a Zimo MX616N hopefully this will fit inside the Peckett.

I did notice in the March 2017 issue of the Hornby Mag they show the installation of a Zimo MX648R sound decoder & Zimo 8mm x 12mm x 8mm cube speaker.

Thank you, that is reassuring.

I have already have the MX600R so will give it a go if not I will get a MX617.

Many thanks

Nige, 

Hornby R3640 PECKETT W4

Hi,

I am just in the process of planning & building my 1st layout and bought my first loco Hornby R3640 Peckett W4. 

The Peckett has a 4 pin decoder socket but I would like to fit a Zimo MX600R decoder which has 8 wires, I am right in saying it's just a case of soldering the 4 relevant wires and ignore the others?

Thanks

Nige.