netutgamer

I'd disagree @RAF96. When it comes to DCC Decoder selection the paperwork says nothing about any requirements other than 21pin. The product listing on the website (as is the case with all Hornby models) tells you nothing about what decoders are compatible or what requirements are needed. Their leaflet in the box (which to be fair I never need to read) simply states that you should talk to your local dealer about Decoders...But I bought his model on pre-order direct from Hornby. And Hornby haven't got their own 21 Pin Decoder to market yet - to even give them the get our of jail free card that you should just buy theirs (which I never ever would). If you bought a brand new car from an official dealership, but had to buy an 'after market' key to start the car, you'd expect them to either sell one themselves, or at least tell you what you need to buy.

Has anyone had any experience of fitting a DCC decoder to one of these at all? I'm not new to DCC, and have had my soldering iron out fitting decodes to locos for some time now. With the latest offering from Hornby (and one of their first with the 21 Pin Decoder Socket) it should in theory be straight forward. I've fitted a DCC Concepts Zen Black (DCD-ZN218.6) their rather handy 21 Pin decoder that also comes with a harness for 8 Pin connection, and I've in the past popped these into plenty of Bachmann DCC Ready locomotives with no issue. However - on my Class 91 - I can't get the Cab lights to come on. Not unusual for Hornby the documentation isn't clear. The included leaflet says one thing about DCC functions and an extra leaflet says something else. There is also a 'Night/Day' switch which for past locos has had little bearing on operation when a decoder is fitted (however I have tired both switch positions) Function 0-3 operate as per the supplementary leaflet around controlling the directional lighting (both on, or turning the white/red directional lighting off - all good) Function 4 is intended to turn the cab lights on or off. Now I've not changed ANY CVs on the decoder, and I have two of them and have tried both. The decoder is firmly seated, and the loco operates as it should - except for the cab lights. So am I sending it back to Hornby, or is there a little trick I'm missing - anyone popped a decoder in their Class 91 and had any issues? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

hehe, yes was trying in two places in case of a different audience in different forums. But appreciate there will be some cross over. Thank you for your other post. I've had the multimeter out and worked down then loco doing continuity checks along the wheels and motor chassis. 100% no continuity between left/right wheels, or across the motor or rear bogie wheels so everything is connected the right way round. Have checked the screw holding down part 14 in the service sheet. Everything there is pretty much coated in a black insulator by Hornby so not easy to get a contact, but there's no continuity between left/right and the screw. Or any of the motor and the wheels.

Looking for some help and would be super grateful if anyone could steer me in the right direction. I've been working through some of my late 2000s models and converting them to DCC so they can come out to run with my modern DCC locos. I've so far found this fairly straight forward. Most of the upgrades have been to simple ringfield motor locos like the Hornby Class 87. The upgrade was straight forward and the locos have been running brilliantly. Opening my Class 47 I have got the modifciation bug and with so much room in the body of this one I'm looking to add cab lights and the correct running lights to this one but it's got me stumped before I even get that far. It ran fantastically on DC the model was pretty much in mint condition. I found this guide here https://tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/1306 but it appears to be for a much older loco than the one I have, this model doesn't have any head code bulbs or associated wiring. I checked the wheels at the drive end before I started and the traction tyres appear to be insulated. And it's not a live chassis (checking the service sheet ) This is my work in progress (attached photos), unlike the other locos I've worked on so far there are 3 power pickup wires for positive and negative, so instead of joining the usual two together to provide power to the decoder I joined all three. Orange and Grey to the motor feeds as usual but no joy. I'm guessing I've cooked my first decoder, but what have. done wrong? Any thoughts greatly appreciated.