Mind the gap

Morning all,

i’m looking to add stay alive to my Bachmann class 08 with a 21 pin decoder. I have spoken to Hattons who were unable to help me and they weren’t sure it could be fitted.

had anyone else managed this and if so, what decoder and stay alive did you use

many thanks

Dave

1 hour ago, ITG said:

Yes, I that’s what I do - assuming you mean to solder to connect the rail and blade, on each side. But many people don’t do this apparently, and get ok running, I hear. Don’t forget the small wire to connect the frog, for polarity switching.

Many Thanks ITG

Morning all,

quick question, it’s been a long time since i have installed a Peco electrofrog point, i have had to replace one and just wondered if it is still practice to cut out the tiny wire under the point that connects the rails and then solder across the rails ??

Many thanks

Dave

Hi all, 

i am thinking of starting a new layout and looking online it looks like nearly every situation has been covered previously, snow scenes, harbours, blue diesel, the list goes on. But has anyone modelled a heritage line ?? Having recently driven a class 52 on the Severn Valley, I did think of doing Kidderminster with the engine shed

just wondering

Dave

1 hour ago, andytrains said:

Look on Ebay, to see what they are going for.

thanks, i had a look at there are no desert sand, maybe i’ll do a listing and see how it goes

Hi there

I am in a bit of quandary and am looking for some advice. Many many years ago I bought a Heljan class 52 D1000 with olivias trains sound in desert sand, i don’t know why i bought it, i don’t particular like it and would rather have a blue one.

My question is, should I sell it and buy a blue one, it is damaged in places, a couple of the guards at the bottom are broken and half a headcode is missing. Or, do I strip the paint off and repaint it blue, which i haven’t done before but i do have an airbrush and i did used to paint slot cars.

I have a feeling the desert sand ones are quite rare and sought after ?? Just something i heard a few years ago

many thanks for your time

Dave

5 hours ago, dhjgreen said:

I did something similar with my EM double slip, I used omega loops to balance the action.

Interesting, i have not seen omega loops before, worth investigating, thanks

19 minutes ago, brossard said:

Since the slip was already built I might assume that it was wired properly.  However, I found the wiring for my hand built single slip to be very tricky indeed. 

 

Here's a diagram from the same source I used for my single slip:

 

http://www.stciers.me.uk/home/track_wiring/od_slip.htm

 

HTH

 

John

many thanks, that diagram is very good

Thanks Stephen, I had thought about joining the two sets of blades together but thought i’d try and see if i could get them to work individually first. I’ll have to give some more thought on how to join them

For some reason, the picture is upside down 

I wonder if you can help me. I am restoring a 40 year old EM gauge layout and it has 2 x double slip sets of points, one on this board and one on another  I haven't started on yet. It has 4 point motors to control the switch blades, I have used 4 DCC Concepts digital point motors with the bar facing each other, 2 at each end.
I will attach a picture, the point motors on the left can be switched at any time with no problems, the two on the right have to be switched in a particular order or they stall half way through the throw and starts to draw 3.3 amp as opposed the usual 0.4 amp.
I have to pull the blades in away from each other and set the point back on my nce powercab to get the point back and the draw back down again.
At this moment, i don’t know if there is a problem with the point work that is causing this fault or it is something else.

I can drive my loco across the point top to top or bottom to bottom, I can’t as yet go straight across, top to bottom or bottom to top. Partly because of the short or getting the switch blades in the right place or no power at the rails as I only have 1 wire from the v in the point to one point motor. So do I need a gizmo to allow both point motors to control the power in the V ??