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2 hours ago, paul 27 said:

I have the same controllers they wont work with DCC fitted locos they are

designed for varied pulses so locos keep a constant speed, thats the

reason i use them you can get your locos to run as slow as you want,

not measured the voltage out put.

 

Do the LEDs flicker, faster as you increase the voltage? Or do they remain on (unless at 0), but get brighter as you increase the voltage.

Thanks 

I contacted Gaugemaster and they said I could send them back and they would inspect and repair if needed and if they had the parts.

They didn't say if what I have described is a likely fault. As I would need to pay for the postage to send them, could somebody with experience of these controllers let me know if what I have described is to be expected or if it sounds like there is a problem. 

I found a copy of the manual online and it says they have a "pulsed design", so I'm now starting to think what I have described is normal.

Thanks.

3 minutes ago, smokebox said:

 

The lifetime guarantee is still valid as long as it hasn't been tampered with.  It applies to new and secondhand purchases. 

Okay, that’s useful to know. I’ll send them an email and see what they say.

 Thank you.

5 minutes ago, Barclay said:

I suppose the key issue is whether it does the job well or not? Does it power loco's smoothly?

 

Don't forget if it is faulty they have a lifetime guarantee. They put a new pot. onto my ancient handheld HH feedback controller, no quibbles at all.

I haven’t tested it on a loco, all mine are now DCC. 

 As for the lifetime guarantee, unfortunately I bought it second hand some time ago.

9 minutes ago, fulton said:

I damaged a turntable drive, the Gaugemaster controller said 12 to 18 volts ( I think) but actually was putting out 21 volts , when I checked after the damage was done. Fortunately the turntable drive was replaced FOC, by Walthers,  when I explained how I had damaged it.

The voltage does vary as you move the knobs, but rather than be a constant 2v, 6v, or whatever at a particular setting, it will fluctuate between 1-3, or 4-6, if that makes sense.

is it broken or is this what to expect on a controller with feedback?

I have one of these old DF feedback controllers, should the 12v outputs remain steady like on the standard Gaugemaster analogue controllers, or does it fluctuate by a few volts? Mine does fluctuate and also the LEDs flicker, faster as you increase the voltage, whereas on the standard controller it is constant but gets brighter.

5 minutes ago, Nigelcliffe said:

You really need a computer connected to your DCC programming track to do this, JMRI/DecoderPro will do it.   
It is possible by hand-setting of CV's, but there are 640 of them for ESU function mapping, most accessed via two other "index" values.    The computer does all this tedious stuff of managing hundreds of CVs for you.  

I do have JMRI, although not really had a proper play with it yet, I only got into model railways in April.

5 minutes ago, Richard Croft said:

On a V4 you dont have enough functions to have more than 5 lighting outputs, you either need to choose between separate tail lights and disconnecting the cab lights (which it sounds like you dont want)

 

Or the lights could be re wired back to standard, giving normal directional lights where the switch for the red lights controls them. Both cab lights would come on together with whatever button controls Aux 1 like the original model.

Cab lights aren't necessary for me, I think what I would really like, in order of preference:

Directional tail lights and headcode

Braking

Flange squeal

Volume control

I have these and more on my Heljan 07 and Bachmann 121 with Zimo decoders.

Can I have something similar put onto the V4 decoder or would I need to upgrade the decoder?

8 hours ago, Richard Croft said:

They don’t have headlights, the headcode box is the forward lights. The black wires under the decoder look non standard, they probably join up to the tail lights. If so they must have connected them to aux 1 and 2, try all the functions until you find them because they are likely to be there somewhere, often people put lighting functions on higher numbers (high teens up into the 20’s)

Thanks for the info Richard. I've gone through all the functions with the 2 switches(cab lights / tail lights) underneath in both the off and on position. Only 12 functions do something.

With both switches off there is no way to turn any lights on.

The tail light switch doesn't seem to do anything, there's no difference to any of the functions whether it is off or on.

With the 'cab' switch on:

Function 0 turns the headcodes on and they are directional.

Function 5 turns the cab lights and tails lights on/off and these will both stay on. The tail lights are not directional, the same end stays red whichever way the loco is going. 

Function 6 turns the tail light on/off at the other end of the loco, again, not directional, they stay on either way the loco is going.

I'll stop looking for the headlight as they may not exist! 

I guess my question now is can I reblow the decoder to get more functions? So the tail lights would be directional, add a braking function, separate cab light function, volume up/down, etc.

Neil

Thanks for your reply. I don't have any manuals for the decoder. I'm not going to start messing around with a multimeter, could be flogging a dead horse and would rather return it than risk causing further problems.

I recently picked up a 2nd hand Bachmann Class 40 fitted with DCC sound, it's mint condition but I can't get the head or tail lights to work.

On selecting Function 0 on my controller the centre headcodes light up as expected and are directional, but the head or tail lights don't seem to work.

There are 2 switches underneath (for DC operation, I think) 1, for 'cab light', 1 for 'tail light'. When these are switched on and function 5 is selected these work (along with a coupling noise!?) so I know the rear LEDs work, at least red does.

I'm told it's a Loksound V3.5 or 4 decoder (see picture) possibly sound fitted by Olivias Trains, but the functions don't match the current ones available. 

I've tried a CV8/8 reset. I've checked the contacts between the body and chassis are clean.

I can return it if it doesn't work, but maybe there's something else I can try.

Neil

This might have been covered already, but I found the Number 17 NEM Kadee couplers work well on older Dapol sockets when held with a drop or two of white / PVA glue left to set overnight. In fact this works better than the newer Dapol wagons fitted with NEM sockets which seem to be quite floppy.

2 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

 

These two designs are basically the same in terms of cost and complexity. They both give you a run round loop and an array of sidings, which you can "scenick" however you like. You wanted passenger trains and goods shunting, diesels and steam and not to be too ambitious and you chose Wiveliscombe as something that fitted the bill - and it does!

Fair comment and I appreciate all the help you’ve given me. I do have some flexitrack that was given to me, I’m going to lay that out, I think that will help move me forward with my plans once I see it laid out.

And thank you for the Finetrax suggestion, I’m definitely interested in using those points.

Thanks again,  

Neil

8 minutes ago, Flying Pig said:

this post describes a beginner's experience of building one

Thanks for the link

3 hours ago, Harlequin said:

Here's my suggestion:

 

 

I'm wondering if this too much station for me. My initial idea in my head was a goods yard layout with diesel locos, that developed in to a station with a goods yard and I'll run a few DMUs. Then I thought that could be in the 60's so I can run a small steam loco with a few carriages as well. 

It certainly possible to run much longer passenger trains on your layout but I'm not sure I'll want to, that's not really my thing. I have to balance what interests me (shunting and goods yard) against what would have been. I have to think about the cost as well. Would I be tempted to spend a few hundred pounds on a DMU with sound - yes. And a steam loco with a rake of coaches... not so much. 

More to consider. I've printed out both layouts so I can compare them and mull it over. 

Then I start thinking should I plan a different layout altogether.... Ok, maybe not right now, but it is fun.

I'll keep an open mind and I'm always open to suggestions...

Thanks Phil, I'll have ponder over your suggestion.

I've come across various point kits but not Finetrax. What's the advantage of the these over the other brands? It looks like they might be easier to construct.

I know Peco is a bit of a compromise in some ways, I was going for the easy option on my first layout, although I was going to remove the spring and use latching motors.

I've changed the points on the sidings back from a 3 way, I think this looks better and keeps all the points to a large radius, which I'd prefer. I also moved 2 of the sidings closer together which I think works much better.

I tried playing around with the curve on the station again, but I'm happy with it how it is.

I guess a layout is never finalised until the track is laid!

Now to think about location, name, what passenger services and goods will be stopping or passing the station,  buildings, landscape, etc, etc.

Small squares are 10cm, area shown in 3.8 x 1.3m / 12'6" x 4'3"

6 minutes ago, KingEdwardII said:

I think you could have the platforms further round the curve to the left and still keep to 2' width baseboards - assuming that the larger squares are 1' in size.

The squares are metric, so 10cm for the smaller squares.

I'll take another look at Dulverton. 

Thanks,

Neil

I've created more space around the station and goods yard, I think that was really a priority. I've added a car and a truck in green for an idea of scale. This also allows me to model a bit more of a town scene.

The points for the sidings and kickback have ben moved and the 2 siding points replaced with a 3 way point. I'm aware that 2 sidings might be a better idea... They can be longer if needed.

I also have to bear in mind where the points will (or won't) fit on the baseboards. Although this layout will stay at home I do want to be able to move it should I need to - moving house, or whatever.

8 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

The goods sidings need to be spaced out from each other better. There needs to be room to get a lorry up to the goods shed loading doors (although you could fudge that if your shed has doors in the end rather than the back). There also probably needs to be some room between two of the sidings but it depends how you imagine vans and wagons would be unloaded - where the lorry access is.

I can work on this.

9 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

The goods sidings should really be longer if you can do it, not just for realism but for shunting play value.

10 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

The track should run right though the goods shed so that a few vans can be pushed through before that whole siding needs to be shunted again. That means of course that the track and shed have to be exactly aligned and it's worth getting that right on the plan because it could upset the whole plan.

They can both be done.

11 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

The curvature of the platforms is still not as continuous as it could be. I think you might be worrying about fitting it on the baseboards too much? It might be better to work out a nicely curvy station and then figure out the baseboards to support it. A bit of give and take is always needed, of course.

The main consideration for me is trying to keep the baseboard between 2 - 3 feet deep. I did play around with the station, continuing the curve round, but I wasn't happy with it.  The room is also used as stock room for the stuff I sell on eBay, so I do need to make sure I can reach the walls either side of the layout, not so much in the top corners as the ceiling is only 5 foot high at that end of the room (wonky old cottage, it's 10 foot at the other end!). There's also windows to the left and right along the top of the layout. I'm 6' with long arms, but need to be realistic!

Always happy to hear other peoples thoughts. Thank you.

I've tidied up the track plan and added the loading bank (in blue). I've kept the kickback siding I added earlier as there was actually one here at some point. If nothing else I quite fancy modelling a section of disused track.

Whilst my layout is based on Wiveliscombe, it will a fictitious location. After all there is a great layout of Wiveliscombe already.

Thank you The Johnster for all the info, you’re evidently very knowledgeable, more knowledgeable than I’ll ever be! Lots more to consider.

I want to be careful to balance accuracy versus rule 1. The depth one can go into is incredible and as a newbie certainly overwhelming at times. I also need to make sure I don’t get so bogged down in the detail I never make a start. 

17 minutes ago, Flying Pig said:

 

No problem as there's a live thread on the subject: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/165032-shunting-query/

 

 

 

Thanks for the link. I’ll check that out

Neil
 

34 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

Alternatively, you could connect Wiveliscombe's loading bank siding there. That would be more realistic, use that space in a less in your face way and make shunting more interesting because it would face the other way to all the other goods sidings.

Ok, I like the potential for more interesting shunting. 

Now I need to educate myself on the difference between the goods shed and loading bank and how they integrate. Like most people just starting out I've heard of a goods shed, but not a loading bank. Basic stuff, I'm sure, but all part of the learning process.

The more I research the more I realise how much there is to learn!

Neil

I've removed the upper loop and shifted the station round and down to the left (excuse the straight platform, I couldn't bend it),  I think that looks better. I'll play around with the curvature of the station and track to give it more of a continuous curve.

I've moved the engine shed to a kickback at the top right.

This does leave me with a space in front of the track to the right, where I've left the point and sidings 'loose'. I'm wondering if I could make use of this space?

37 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

The technical challenge in a small-ish room with an inward opening door is how to accommodate the lifting section

Fortunately the door opens outwards. I do have an inward opening window though(?!?), not that affects anything. - the quirks of living in an 400 year old cottage!

I'm going to play around with the idea of a curved station.

Thank you for all the comments so far.

13 minutes ago, Flying Pig said:

But you already have that with your through station - no need for an extra loop behind it.

Ha, yes, you're right. I think this is where I've ended up after playing around with lots of different ideas. So you're right, there really is no need for it. Sometimes these things need pointing out!

I think my initial thoughts were to be able to have a train on the loop off scene behind the station.

13 minutes ago, Flying Pig said:

Could you place the station on a sweeping curve across the top left of the room, with the sidings falling naturally into the corner?  As you have it, the layout is rather square in its overall aspect

Good point, it would look better. Thank you.