ShadowinLinby

Ian doesn't do himself justice, as along with his win for the coaches, his steam rail motor picked him up two more awards.

Well done Ian

ChrisB

What about these John

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263254189899?var=564465896490

ChrisB

James - the next ZAG meeting is tomorrow evening - details in the ZAG post on here. Pop in and say hello - we're a friendly bunch. Just remember, there will be members showing what they've been up to recently - don't be put off by what you see - remember the only difference between you and us is time and practice 

ChrisB

James - I would depending on where you live, either seek out your local area group our join in on the Zoom Area Group (ZAG) which happens on Saturdays twice a month, or if possible do both. You will find lots on helpful people who all started where you are, and will be more than happy to answer any questions you have.

ChrisB

The drop in wheel sets are very easy to do and you can have a diesel converted very quickly. The 2mm FS Finetrac point kits are a good starter for a newbie to get a feel for point making. I would give fine scale a go and see how it suits you. Like everything different, it's about learning a few new skills. It's also about accepting that we learn by making mistakes. He who never made a mistake never made anything. 

ChrisB

The instruction to leave the loft accessible came from Mrs Laurie. The fact that both Laurie and Mrs Laurie shouldn't really be climbing in to lofts seems to have been ignored. 

There are plenty of people who would disagree with your option for larger layout, Jerry Clifford, Laurie Adams, the Fencehouses gang and me to name but a few.

ChrisB

I use a combination of Easitrac plastic chairs on plastic sleepers and copper clad in vital areas i.e. the switch blade ends and under the crossing nose, which I've found to be suitable robust. Using this method the crossing nose, which is made using the Crossing Nose Webs (1-111) (and see my article in the Oct-Nov 2mm mag) means that the crossing nose is totally insulated. 

23 hours ago, Southernfrance said:

I love the look of 2mmFS and code 40 N but for me it's time versus size of layout. I'm seven years into my South London project "Brickmakers Lane" and to do this in either 2mmFS or code 40 N would have cost me lot more in both money and time, with close to 60 points to make instead of buy and (carefully) plant. I've narrowed all of the point spacings to more reflect the real thing too.. Yes, sometimes locos and stock wobbles a bit, but it doesn't put me off overly. I try to work out what is causing the problem and try to resolve it. I had a good go at this after wiring was finished and now that ballasted the bulk of the lower main lines and yards, i'm still finding little niggles with bits of ballast, dirty rail, or loco issues to resolve. It's gradually getting better, and it's now at a stage I'm happy with. I'll continue to add shims to the points that cause bouncing, and tweak stock as needed.  Here's a couple of pictures of the carriage yard exit onto the main and relief lines on the lower level. Most stock runs over this very well at slow speeds in all directions, but I do agree the slips are worse for any potential bouncing. Larger locos are obviously better than smaller, diesels like my Dapol 33 are way better than my Farish Jinty for example.

 

It's horses for courses for me - complicated layout, lots of operation, not too long a timescale to complete - N; smaller layout, less operation, in same timescale - 2mmFS; compromise between the two  - code 40.

 

Dave

I would disagree with your comment that 2mFS point work is more costly. I've just costed out one of my hand built B8 point which comes out at about £7. This compares with around £18 for Peco Streamline and £29 for the comparable Fine Trax version.

ChrisB

The chassis in the photo hasn't been cleaned at all yet. I find a toothbrush and a bit of fairy liquid is all you need. 

What's not broken doesn't need fixing is the appropriate saying. I've used Fluxite for years and just like you it works perfectly. CCT replacement put together using the same.

I don't solder the bush in place for ease of removal should any wear take place. Bush is opened out to 1.8mm which is a nice slide fit over the 10ba stud 

That just goes to show there are no original ideas - that's the method I use - the use of the drive bush gives a consistent, but adjustable if required, ride height

On my own there then - however my comment was based on the way I've developed for mounting my bogies which will be appearing in the 2mm mag at some point

Hi Ian - I'd stick with 10ba and open the holes out in the etch - I personally think 12ba is a bit small for a bogie mount but I'm sure others will have a different view

It went WSL a while ago and as It no longer listed, it suggest all the stock has gone. 

23 hours ago, Nick Mitchell said:

Hi @queensquare, I'd seen your post - How appropriate you're Eureka moment happened in the Bath thread...

The resistor and diodes you see in the picture are indeed the same ones I've used all along - I'm still using up the original quantities I found on eBay, as written about in the MRJ article.

There are smaller resistors available (carbon film type on a little black chip) but I quite like these Mini-MELF ones.

To save me looking through all my MRJ pile, what edition was the stay-live article in Nick

Gary – it’s fairly simple – a dissatisfaction with what commercial N gauge offers and a desire for something better. You’ll need to learn some new skills and accept that you learn by getting it wrong. The only difference between you and what you see on here an Youtube is time. Fundamentally though the only way to know if it’s for you, is to join the association and give it a go.

Guilty as charged Kevin

ChrisB

I use the std cost of a packet of fags to get over the value - at around £12 a packet in the UK £25 is about two packets which some people will go through in a two days. Triangular gauges will last you a life time. £25 for a lifetimes use look better value.

ChrisB 

Hi Nick - I see two options

1 Keep stripping and repainting until you can produce paint work as good as the best at the sacrifice of everything else. 

2 Accept your limitations at the moment knowing you will get better as you do more. They are a good first attempt.

It is commonly accepted that mastery takes around 10000 hours of practice. Time is our most limited resource so I would say accept what you have and move on knowing next time you will be slightly better.

ChrisB

Lever frames are available from the Scalefour public store as below. If you want more of a challenge you can get the Mark two version which can be interlocked but you'll need to find a Scalefour member to buy them for you as they are only available to S4 members

Your trackwork looks fine to me Bruce – funnily enough, the more you make. the better you get.

Practice make progress.

Interesting use of vocabulary Bruce. Using words like attempt and try preprogrammes us for failure. (Translated they mean ‘I’ll have a go but I don’t think I can’). For years I told myself I’d never be able to make a single or double slip. I recently discovered I’d been lying to myself for 30 odd years. The first one I made had a few issues, so I threw it away and made a second, which was much better and usable. By the time I’ve made the other 10 or so I need I’ll be much better at them.

By the way, nothing wrong with your spelling, you spelt the wrong word correctly!🤣

ChrisB

Alan - if if would help to get more engagement with the 2mm world you're more than welcome to join our bimonthly North Mercia Area Group Zoom that currently attracts members from far and wide. The next one will be on 30th March 7pm GMT (30th is after that daft thing we do with the clocks so you would have to work that one out for US timings) Watch out for the details that will be posted on RMWeb nearer the date. 

Chris B