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G-BOAF

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  1. G-BOAF
    The Project
    Inspired by pictures of the Model Rail Sentinel Shunters in unusual locations a few years ago, and by the stories of ‘extreme ironing’ during the 2000s (underwater, atop mountains, on boats etc), my mind wandered to how I could contribute to getting model railway equipment in interesting locations. No content with just photographing, I was determined to go one further and run a locomotive as well. Unlike a robust ironing board, modern models are inherently delicate, and do not naturally lend themselves to the knocks and bangs of travel. Undeterred however, and for reasons of geographical relevance discussed later, one of the ultimate locomotives in terms of fine detail, the Model Rail USA Class, was selected for project a back in 2017 (I’m only now writing it up). This entailed operating a model railway at the extremes of civilian-accessible global altitude.
     
    Video here:
    https://youtu.be/_4CVcXdrv30
     
    The itinerary was not exactly straightforward, and combined both holiday and work travel, to provide the two extremes. I was fortunate to have the privilege of flying at the pointy end of a British Airways Boeing 747-400, in seat 1A on a flight from London to Washington DC. One of the many perks of First Class is the provision of a table of reasonable size. Ostensibly designed so that two people can dine opposite each other, it was apparent to me that the BA interior designers had obviously considered the railway modeller, as there is just enough room for a short length of track laid diagonally across the surface. Indeed it was the anticipated size of the table that inspired me to turn ‘wishful thinking’ of an extreme model railway into an actual possibility; such a large table is unavailable in the classes of travel I am usually folded in to!
     
    So at 38,000ft, cruising at 434mph above the Gulf of Maine, I started to unbox the equipment. One excuse that the British railway system has never come up with is a delayed train due to heavy turbulence, but as soon as I started to fishplate the track together, the hitherto smooth and quiet ride in the nose of the Jumbo started to get bumpy. As the bumping started, a little light came on above my seat, seemingly instructing me to continue plugging in the fishplates…! With the track assembled, the loco was set down, with a hand hovering gingerly above to guard against my neighbour’s glass of Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle being dramatically dispatched by 200g of USA Class-shaped metal and plastic hurled across the tapered cabin. With turbulence subsided and the seatbelt sign off, running could commence. This was very much a proof of concept, as the loco made only a few light engine runs up and down the 4 pieces of track, photos and video taken, and then everything re-boxed. Tempted as I was to bring some pointwork and a few wagons to enable some shunting, space constrains, and my last remaining ounce of common sense, prevailed.
     

    Bachmann S100 operating in Seat 1A of G-CIVY
     
    With high altitude done, the next challenge was low altitude. Back ended onto my North America holiday was a conference at the Dead Sea in Jordan. A transit in London without a chance to return home meant that the loco had to come with; this was not actually part of my original plan! Conference over, and with a borrowed hotel meal tray to provide a firm and clean surface on a gritty and salty beach, I walked down the 157ft from my hotel to the beach before heading for a sun lounger about 2.5ft above the surface of the water. Once again the track was assembled, controller connected and loco shuttled back and forth. At this point a lifeguard came over to see what on earth was happening – even if English had been his first language, or Arabic mine, I think my explanation would have been somewhat perplexing! But there I had it, one loco run in the space of less than a month at 38,000 ft above and 1,357ft below sea level. Aside from the possible existence of a model railway enthusiast submariner, or private jet passenger (with potential service ceiling of some business jets of 45k ft), I dare venture that this might be an unofficial record for altitude operation not only of a model railway, but any powered rail mounted vehicle. It’s just a shame the altitude differential didn’t quite get to 40,000ft!
     

    Bachmann S100 operating at the Dead Sea.
     
    Electrics, equipment and packing
    My priority was light weight, robust and independent operation. I acquired a cheap Bachmann trainset controller, and powered it with a 9V battery, to allow for use away from a mains power supply. With a DC feed from the battery, the normal rectifier-based reverser on the controller was of no use, so a DPDT switch was wired into the track feed. Clearly the loco was not going to take any scale speed records, but would work perfectly fine on a short length of track. To cope with being packed in space constrained hand luggage and eliminate the risk of bending, Peco short straights (ST-200) were used (packed in a stack for strength), stopped with the classic Hornby R083 buffer stops, which also acted to secure the power feeds. The whole setup was robust and reliable, aside from the odd loose fishplate. The locomotive was carried in its vacuum formed plastic tray, that being wrapped in bubble wrap and placed in a sturdy box. The locomotive with all its metal and electrics did get the attention of airport security, as it transpires that it is not normal for passengers to travel with their own trainset!
     
    Why the Model Rail USA class? A cheap and rugged Hornby 0-4-0 would have done the job just as well. Or would it? I didn’t want a loco shooting off the short length of track, and the incredible slow speed control, reliable and smooth running of the USA meant that it was just right for the gentle manoeuvring required. Additionally, in the interests of prototypical context, the locomotive was appropriate for both regions in which the model would operate, with the S100s built in the USA and operated in the Middle East during and after WW2. She was purchased solely for this project (I didn’t want to risk damage to my 30064 model which was at that point sold out), with the idea that there would be no sentimental attachment should she be damaged during transport, but the model is obviously now a loved part of my fleet.
     
    Going further?
    Records are set in order to be broken, and with the 3ft/yr decline in surface of the Dead Sea due to continue for the feasible future (not enough inflow to counter evaporation), it will be possible to go lower still every year. Similarly it should be possible to go higher given the right flight plans, and therefore break the 40,000 altitude differential. If any airline wishes to facilitate, I’d be happy to give it another go! Sadly Guinness World Records don’t certify altitude or speed records on aircraft, so there is also an opportunity for someone to get an official record by going to the top of a mountain!
     
  2. G-BOAF
    As models are becoming ever more detailed, and different detail variations are captured by the manufacturers, modelling the particular prototype you want, and as correct as it can be, can be increasingly difficult, especially when classes have significant variations in details throughout their lives or production.
     
    For me this was the case with the Hornby Castle. I had originally wanted 5051 Earl Bathurst single chimney with a Hawksworth Tender, and 7029 Clun Castle double chimney with a Collet tender, thereby capturing most of the key variations captured in the Hornby Model. 7029 was a straightforward renumber of Hornby Ince Castle. 5051 would be a renumber of 5053 Earl Cairns, but with a need to eventually modify the front Cylinder Cover and fit under-cab sand boxes (have parts, not done yet!).
     
    As a holiday treat, I purchased an Ince Castle from the excellent Hearns Hobbies in Melbourne which was to become my 7029. It was beautiful and was carefully packed up. BUT I failed to ask/remind them to return the transit brackets to the model. After 25 hours in my hand luggage home to the UK via Singapore, the cab roof corner was distinctly cracked, having been pushed against the hard plastic front of the split tray packaging (and with the new fully 'vacuum formed' packaging, there is even more scope for damage if the model is packed very slightly out of alignment!). I arrived back in the UK with a lovely model but with a deformed cab. Even regluing the corner and sanding/patch painting the join, it irked me, and was not going to be the pride of my Castle fleet, as I am that picky!

    Damage to the front corner of the cab roof.
     
    I secured another Ince Castle to become 7029 Clun Castle, and then pondered what to do with my damaged loco. Then the idea came to me, would it be possible to swap cabs and create 5043 Earl of Mount Edgcumbe, as preserved at Tyseley?
     
    Why swap cabs? Hornby make three different cabs for the Castle capturing the main differences that Swindon introduced over the years:
    1.     larger front windows and windscreen wipers, and straight handrail under the cab side window and beading on the cab front (visible as slightly recessed cab front relative to the corner of the cab)
    2.     Smaller front cab windows without wipers, straight handrail under cab side window and beading on the cab side (just printed no relief)
    3.     As 2 but with L-shaped handrail representing the later build GWR and BR castles
     
    It should be noted that 5043 has cab type 1. When Hornby produced this model a few years back (R3301), they wrongly fitted cab type 3. They also used somewhat garish orange lining (rather than orangy-red linking on original releases) – orange might be more correct as per prototype colours, but at the thickness Hornby’s factory printed it, it looked awfully toy like. They also hashed the Earl nameplates – they are a tighter radius than normal castle plates, having been cast for the Dukedogs, and as such the plinths are thicker in the middle than the edges when fitted to a castle. Hornby’s rendition saw the change in thickness distributed across both the nameplate AND plinth and imho looked stupid. So I felt there was potential to build the ‘ultimate’ Hornby 5043, and also use what I feel are better decorated parts from the Sanda Kan-made Castle release (2009-2012)
     
    Playing around with my slightly damaged Ince body proved that it was possible to remove the cab without damaging the finish of the parts, or the integrity of the components themselves. Having done this, I then ordered a second Earl Cairns as a donor model, which would provide the correct cab and Hawksworth Tender for 5043 (replacing the Type 3 cab and collett tender as supplied with Ince Castle). Separating the cab from Earl Cairns was a more nerve racking experience, as being a brand new pristine model, I had everything to loose (unlike Ince which was already damaged). It was literally a case of unbox, test, and out with the screwdrivers and modelling knife on a £130 loco, severing major components, all in a matter of minutes!

    Brand New £130 R2822 Earl Cairns, out of the box, prior to testing and then immediate dismantling of cab and body! The first time I've been so brutal with an out of the box model!
     
    Here's how it was done (as usual, I hold no responsibility for loss or damage to models for following these instructions, proceed at your own risk! There is a chance that later models may differ in assembly and strength or amount of glue used):
     
    Dismantling
    A sharp knife running along the inside underside of the cab floor, between the floor and the small white metal weights underneath, was enough to brake the glue join on top of the weights, and also the glue join of the rear dragbox/cab buffing plate
     
    Then squeeze in blade between the inside of the firebox and the rim around the cab front to break the glue joint. Locations shown here.

     
    Ensuring the rear end of the cab was not caught in the buffing plate, it was then possible to lever the cab back and upwards, thereby breaking the glue join at the top of the firebox.
     
    Care is needed not to damage the cab handrails and other fine detail here. Ideally handrails should not be removed from the cab as this may damage the fine stanchions that secure them to the cab side sheet. The bottom of the handrail should be a dry fit in the lugs on the running plate.

    Cabs off. Note the glue remains on the top of the ballast weights under the cab on, on the top of the running plate below the cab sides, and also in the groove between the weights and the buffing plate at the rear of the body. All these areas need careful cleaning to ensure the replacement cab fits properly (see below).
     
    Having done this, I needed to significantly clean the remaining glue off both the cab and boiler/running plate surfaces. This was to ensure there was a clean surface to accept the swapped cab. Some glue comes off easily, some needs scraping, some needs rather forceful cutting/prizing off with a blade. All without damaging the paintwork! This cleaning up was the hardest and longest part of the process.
     

    The bottom side of the cab floor needs cleaning of any glue remains, along with careful cleaning of the bottom edge of the cab sides, taking care not to cut into the plastic or damage the paintwork. In separating the cab from the body, a blade should be pushed along the cab floor between the join with the ballast weight tops.
     

    The tops of the cab ballast weights need to be cleaned, and the groove to the rear of the weights in front of the cab/tender buffing plate. This will ensure the new cab sits flat on the running plate with no unsightly gaps. The outside of the rim at the front of the cab (this sits inside the firebox) also needs cleaning of all glue remains to ensure the cab will fit in the donor boiler.
     

    The inside of the firebox, and the rear edge (in black) also have to be carefully scraped to remove glue and paint residue. In dismantling, a blade should be run along the inside vertical faces of the firebox between the firebox and the lip of the cab front that fits inside. If possible also squeeze a blade along the top of the firebox inside, but due to size/length of boiler, this is not easy. This picture also shows the amount of scraping in the channel just in front of the buffing plate. Significant quantities of glue were put here in the factory, but the smallest remains can prevent the rear of the cab and running plate sitting true. Great care needed to scrape out here without damaging the external surfaces.
     
    Reassembly
    I decided to reassemble with PVA to enable adjustment, and indeed removal and clean up if things went wrong, without damaging the paintwork. My original idea was to further tack in place with super glue after things set, but this has proven unnecessary (see later). PVA will also allow the cab swap to be reversed if necessary.
     
    I first glued the cab to the running plate, being careful to slot the cab handrails into their locating holes, and ensure the rear edge of the cab was properly located into the (scrupulously cleaned) groove between the buffing plate and the under-cab ballast weight. The cab front lip was then tucked under the firebox (but NOT glued) The cab/running plate were then taped together to dry for 24hr.

    Tape securing the cab bottom to running plate while drying
     
    Once dry, the cab was gently levered back and glue applied inside the firebox, and the cab lip refitted under the firebox. The loco body was reattached to the chassis. The cab was then levered back slightly to ensure the right hand handrail is correctly seated in the small hole under the cab front window that holds it in place. Using a ruler/set square on a totally flat surface, the cab then needs to be aligned such that it is sitting vertically. DO NOT just push it as far forward into the firebox as it will go, as there is a chance you will end up with a forward leaning cab – the boiler/cab interface is not perfect and there is some play and a small gap exists that in the factory may have been plugged with glue. So take care.
     
    Once the cab was squared off, the firebox position was held steady with masking tape, and the whole thing left to dry.
     
     

    Cab vertical alignment drying. Tape was placed to hold the boiler in place on the chassis while the cab/boiler interface dries. levering the cab back and forward changes the height of the running plate, so taping in this way ensures everything is held true.
     
    Main work was now complete!
     
    There was some minor detail changes for 5043 including moving the lubricator from in front of the steam pipe to the rear (and repainting it from black to green). Final touches included fitting etched nameplates from Fox Transfers and cab plates. The cab plates I backed with paper to increase the thickeness a bit (but leaving a gap in the paper to go round the cab-side rivets which I did not want to cut off). Plates were edged out with Humbrol RC Green 405. For the front numberplates, I used Fox decals, as I find unpainted etched steel plates don’t stand out enough on the layout in poor lighting.
     
    I did this cab conversion twice (as the two different pictured locos show). Once using my damaged cab from Ince, fitted to the single chimney boiler from Earl Cairns. I created 7027 Thornbury Castle with Collet Tender (but its now being restored with a Hawksworth tender…. Oh well Rule 1, and there are enough GWR tender swaps in preservation). This was my prototype re-assembly, and I’m happy to live with the slightly imperfect cab roof. Having proved the concept, I embarked on 5043 which has finally been completed after a gap of 2 years due to insufficient modelling time and patience!
     
    Aside from the repaired cab roof corner on 7027 and filled lubricator holes on LHS smokebox (somewhat visible), and for 5043 a touched up running plate where I moved the lubricator, these models are as decorated by Hornby. 7027 will also receive the long RHS lubricator pipe cover off (another!) scrap Ince Castle body, but in terms of detail, it is similar to 7037 as produced by Hornby in 2010 (although I will need to correct the middle cylinder cover and rear sand boxes). The cab and plates are still secured with its PVA, and with extra paper padding in the packaging and modified hard tray window, this model has accompanied me in hand baggage on a number of international trips with no detrimental impact!
     

     
    5043 is, I believe, totally unique in terms of detail combination (double chimney and large window cab) using Sanda Kan made Hornby parts and their lovely decoration and finish.

    5043 Earl of Mount Edgcumbe
     
    Thanks for reading. Hope it inspires others’ to go a step further than simple renumbering and tender swaps!
     
     
    p.s. In the course of messing around with the bodies, a couple of the ATC conduit brackets popped off. Thankfully they fell to my workbench, but were very fiddly to reattach (with super glue and positioned with blu tak to avoid them pinging out of my tweezers) – they really are TINY, and along with the Dapol Western lifting eyes, might be the smallest parts on an OO RTR model ever!
     

    ATC Conduit brackets, positioned between 1 and 2cm on a steel rule. The whole part is about 1.75mm long
     
     

    5043 with the Vintage Trains Support Coach (by Bachmann, split from the Shakespeare Express train pack)
     

    The magnificent Castle Cab, couldn't resist this picture, captured at a prototypical ground angle, just before I refitted the running plate.
  3. G-BOAF
    Faced with an extended-ish period working out of the UK, and aware of the relaxing properties of sitting by one’s own lineside with a whisky, I recently travelled with a fully operational set of model railway kit.
     
    Pictured below is the setup in my hotel room (I won’t say where, but the eagle-eyed will note the UK-style G-type plugs, narrowing it down to somewhere in the world which uses those plugs!). If I may blow my own trumpet, I’m proud of my ingenuity – the track extends onto the ironing board, which was adjusted to the closest match to the desk (limited by discrete settings on this board) and then tilted slightly to get proper alignment by use of discarded water bottle tops under the legs (light blue blobs under the feet at the far end)!
     

     
    Motive power is my trusty ‘travel pannier’, my sneaky companion on many UK and international trips, but often only on static display when abroad (though she has previously had a couple of outings on a balcony (3m straight track), and a hotel bar table using a battery-powered controller converted from a Scalextric handheld controller). This time, having purchased a cheap split-from-set Bachmann controller, she runs properly! The loco was purchased brand new for £35 back in 2008, so the financial consequence of any damage in transit is minimal. Plus I have a couple of 8750 bodies at home if anything goes wrong! This said, the body has had a few hours of work to adjust the cab-tank interface and remove the ‘Bachmann 8750 running plate hump’, so is worth more than purchase price to me. She is numbered as 9600 from the Vintage Trains fleet, and I have recently livened up her front end with modern OHL flashes. At some point I need to grasp the nettle and line her out fully! She is accompanied by a Mk1 BCK (complete train in one coach – 1st, 3rd, guard, luggage!), also decorated for mainline condition. So in terms of setting, we have a short shuttle off a mainline spur somewhere… with my notebook forming a makeshift platform!
     

     
    Track is a mix of Peco and Hornby short straights (they pack easily, and 8 of them fit rail-to-rail, sleeper-to-sleeper top and bottom in the vac-formed tray around the Mk1) Long straights would be at risk of bending during the rough and tumble of travel.
     
    In terms of transport, I generally avoid checked baggage for work trips (off plane, through passport control and straight to hotel/meetings), and the presence of model railway items has (rightly) caught the eye of security personnel, both at airports and secure buildings. The loco normally lives in my 'day bag' with the result that it has been to some interesting places/offices in the world. It has flown at least 20,000 miles on various trips in recent years. Allowing for people relocating from (say) Australia to the UK, I venture to say this might be one of the best travelled model locos in the world!
     
    Admittedly a more than slightly crazy thing to do, but fun all the same, and a nice way to spend a couple of hours. If only bag space permitted a few waggons and a couple of points…
  4. G-BOAF

    Railway Flight

    By G-BOAF,

    Flew 'up north' today, originally wanted to get to Shildon for C1 Atlantic launch, but logistics from Durham Tees Valley and timing from my pilot were difficult. Instead passed some other interesting railway sites (also some now historic pics of Didcot from 2012...):
     
     

    National Railway Museum - South Yard in foreground (or is it really a contender for 'how realistic are your models...)
     
     

    National Railway Museum - Great Hall. A Class 55 Deltic (presumably KOYLI) lurking outside the 'Works'. York Station in background
     

    York Carriage Works, with new turntable to the left
     

    York Tear Drop Site
     

    Asfordby Test Centre (Old Dalby Test Track) - Brand New London Underground S-Stock awaiting test. I counted 9 units in total
     

    Asfordby Test Centre - LUL S Stock and Class 47 47714 in worn Anglia livery
     
     

    Didcot Railway Centre (2012) with Power Station in background
     

    Didcot Railway Centre (2012)
  5. G-BOAF
    IGNORE THE LAYOUT unfinished and very temporary! Time has been invested in rolling stock, and 'playing trains'! The Triang-era Station buildings and platforms are on the 'to replace' list
    The aim of these pics is to illustrate how I am attempting to achieve operational characteristics, cameos, and prototypical rolling stock of the preservation era, and how models of preserved railways need not be boring, nor are an excuse to 'run anything' (well not entirely!). Some of these items have been presented in other posts, but brought together here in response to the "why are preserved raiways so unpopular as layout subjects' thread.
     

    First up, a converted RBR, stripped for parts for other projects (literally), leaving a bare underframe, on scrap B1 bogies, then roughly repainted in maroon (also practice for repainting other stock), and refitted as a static Buffet/Kitchen behind platform 1. Brick access platform built at end of coach, and also loading ramp for catering deliveries, sympathetically fitted out with Ratio fencing (my angles are a bit off though!). Note the 1959 Driving Motor Northern Line car, also on static duty.
     

    Next, the shed yard, haven't finished the concreting of the apron, and need to weather everything. Note the lifting jacks stored outside (they need to be tarpaulined over). 'Restricted Width; signs on the shed entrance. JCB for coaling (will be replaced with a forklift a la Sheffield Park). Sleepers stored by the mainline. Please excuse the 'scare of the original first radius trackbed running across this scene!
     

    Line-up of Scammell Scarabs in the station forecourt. Must be a gala,I take them off on occasions!
     

    BR Robinson O4 63601 hauling LNER liveried Teaks, followed by Mk1s. Very NYMR/GCR!!!
     

    New arrival, Maunsell BCK arrives on a Heanor Low Loader, ready to enter service after a comprehensive overhaul (arrival from model shop!). True to type, there is only one diag. 2401 BCK vehicle preserved (6575 at Bluebell), so only one will feature on the layout (which is why I'd love the Pull-Push flush-sided BCK to be released in its original form!)
     

    Stored ex-intercity BG, sheeted over awaiting restoration, and fixing of a corroded roof. Behind it is the last Regional Railways BSK (now preserved at the ELR I believe), completely encased in Tarpaulin in long term storage. Tying all that cotton thread on to the Tarpaulin and then the underframe was frustrating evening!
     

    TPO set, with POS on B4 Bogies, a BG similarly shod, and a GUV on commonwealth bogies, presumably restored to near original condition from RES service. Also note the two shipping containers acting as workshop/storage space behind the shed, resting on redundant sleepers. At the top of the picture, an ex-RES super BG sits now acts as storage, sits on an isolated stretch of track (moved there to free up siding space elsewhere) Technically the RES logo should be removed if the vehicle is ex-EWS. The Class 37/4 in the yard is will at some point be repainted when I have the time (to do it) or money (to get someone else to do it) to represent a preserved example.
     

    Pullman Car IBIS with Pullman bogie replaced with Gresley bogies as in VSOE service (OK, Hornby dons't represent the correct window layout for Ibis, but we'll overlook that!)
     

    Mainline registered Mk1, complete with OHL flashes, cantrail stripes (only applied to coach ends many attempts revealed it was impossible to place a transfer on the guttering) and TOPS data panel (as on EWS/DBS examples). All my mainline Mk1s fitted with Commonwealth bogies.
     

    Coupled mainline registered coaches.
     

    Unrefurbished RU I checked and there is at least one in mainline service still, I think on the Northern Belle, albeit with a few windows blanked off! Commonwealth bogies fitted, kitchen extended into seating bays and windows whited out (with paper, so reversible), representative of the RU on the SDR. Also featuring Mk1 Pullman Emerald, NRM now on the mainline with WCRC. Also got Eagle which is currently in the works having its underframe changed (don't ask!)
     

    Mk2a TSO, 5412, as in the SRPS charter rake (but without branding), repainted by hand from Bachmann NSE TSO. Roof is factory finish masked off. Having gone to all that trouble, the rules are changed once again permiting passenger carrying Mk1s at the rear of trains! GRRR. Well, its in the fleet now, but the change in rules does mean I can operate vac-only Steam locos on railtours prototypically (since the Mk2a is Air only)
     

    Given that Bachmann continue not to produce any Mk1 FOs, the only way I could work towards a 9-coach all-maroon railtour set was by adopting the MetCam Pullmans that WCRC have painted Maroon and use as FOs. Again a hand repaint with factory-finished roof. Windows were removed during painting. Transfers are HMRS numbers (slightly off colour) with Fox MetCam Pullman lining. Another example will be similarly treated in the future.
     

    35028 Clan Line being disposed of on the Ash Pit having just returned the railtour stock to the railway. Currently borrowing the NRM support coach until I have cut and shut a Mk1 BFK in Maroon (I'm not going to attempt to replicate the Pullman livery on the Mk2a BFK Clan Line uses today)!
     

    Colourful set of restored wagons – I admit freight stock is probably less authentic, although given the often 'representative' rather than 'historical' nature of wagon restoration, I think I can get away with it. I might have a few too many 'end door' opens. I try not to exceed or get near total number of preserved examples of any wagon type. There are only about 3 Presflows in preservation (of the type modelled by Bachmann) so we'll be sticking with one!
     

    A majority of the coaches, including the bulk of the 12 mainline Mk1s stored in the sidings between railtour use. Four of the mainline set form the everyday maroon Mk1 set, supplemented by a Mk1 CK, a non ML vehicle, with its original B1 Bogies. Note the Mk1 BSK (2nd car up on extreme left) has had its periscopes blanked off using the blanks from a scrap Bachmann BSK. 5 Car Pullman Rake, going by my 'numbers preserved' rule, it would be theoretically possible to muster such a set of K-type cars! Note also bottom left the 'spur' onto the mainline (i.e. off the baseboard!)
  6. G-BOAF
    Bachmann A2 – correcting the downward slope of the rear running plate/cab
    With my analysis winging its way to Bachmann, I am posting it here!
     
    ****NOTE – this advice is offered in good faith – I will not promise that it will work in all cases and modelling skills, and take no responsibility for loss or damage (to person, limb, model or model value!) that may result. Some measurements (including thickness of plasticard, and amount of material removed) may require amendment for your particular model, and trial and error may be involved.****
     
    *** NOTE 2 – read ALL these instructions through before starting, DO NOT START work unless you are happy you can complete it, including some awkward reassembly. ***
     
    NOTE 3 – some of the screws joining parts of the body can be VERY tight. Be careful not to strip the screw heads (I nearly did!)
     
    Good Luck!
    G-BOAF
     
    What you will need:
    Screwdrivers, knife, small metal file, 0.25mm plasticard (or similar for packing) screwdriver (Philips No.0 seems to work well for backhead screws, and a number 1 (I think, for other screws)
     
    Step 1.
    Take off body. Drawbar will drop out. Then, undo all 6 boiler/cab screws (two under backhead, two under firebox, one under boiler barrel (the rearward one of the two in this location), and the one under the smokebox. Keep note of what goes where, they are all different sizes!
     
    Step 2.
    Remove backhead by gently pushing it backwards from inside the firebox. Fall plate will drop out.
     
    Step 3.
    Gently remove boiler from running plate. It may require ‘rocking’ gently side to side off the running plate. Smokebox steam pipes may well drop off at this point. Keep them safe.
     
    Step 4.
    Gently break off cab from boiler, Cab will be glued to boiler. Holding the cab roof with finger and thumb inside and outside. towards the front, gently lever thee cab upwards to break it off.
     

     
    Step 5.
    Scrape off all the remaining glue on cab front, and on the rear of the firebox/lip. The area will be hidden on reassembly, but take your time, do not rush or risk damage to paint in and around this area (esp at the top of the cab front)..
     

     
    Step 6.
    On the running plate casting, file off about 0.5mm of material from the V-front of the raised section of casting to which cab/backhead are secured. The outer-bottom part of this area may be difficult to do without damaging the running plate/rivet detail, but go as far as you can.... And then work on the inside bottom of the Cab V-front to scrape off a corresponding amount of material to compensate for any metal that could not be removed. Also extend forward the depth of the ‘slots’ in the cab moulding which the backhead screws pass through – if left they will restrict movement. The aim is that when the cab it put back, it has about 0.5mm fore/aft play to absorb any irrigularities without bending the running plate. You
     

     
    Step 7
    Backhead – file down the tops of the gauges/valve mounts that sit atop the backhead. The valve handles themselves should be left, but be careful not to damage them, and beware, they can fall out without warning, so watch out! When you hold the backhead, be careful of the injector valve handles – do not put pressure on them!
     
    Step 8
    File down a fair amount (at least 0.5mm, but I didn’t actually measure it – could be a bit more) of material off the FRONT EDGE (i.e. the edge that contacts the front of the cab) This ensures that the backhead won’t push outwards when everything is screwed up again! Depending on how ‘thick’ the cab front is, will depend on how much material to remove. Ensure that the front of the backhead NO LONGER makes contact with the front of the cab.
     
    Step 8a
    file the front corners of the backhead casting, again to prevent any contact with cab corners.
     

     
    Step 9
    Replace boiler ONLY and loosely do up screws such that the boiler is still loose on the running plate.
     
    Step 9A
    Getting the outside steam pipes to relocate in the smokebox/running plate is DIFFICULT, not least because they are partly behind the smoke deflectors! I found that, with the boiler loosely in position, but not rammed home, holding the steam pipes with blu-tak, locating them in the holes in the running plate, line the tip pip up with the hole in the smokebox, then push the boiler/smokebox home. Time and persistence required – it took me 15 mins at least (once I knew what I was doing! You might want to wait until you are satisfied the job is correct, then re-strip everything (or at least loosen everything up) and re-insert the steam pipes.
     
    Alternatively, glue them to the smokebox, but possibly do this BEFORE you do any dismantling, since getting their position correct without them being secured at both ends may be difficult. I haven’t tried this, so can’t advise.
     
     
    Step 10.
    Before doing up firebox screws fully, squeeze the running plate section under the firebox against the firebox botttom, to minimise this gap, don’t go mad, and make sure you are pushing the running plate by the material under the rear of the firebox, NOT the plate under the cab, since this may bend other areas of the casting. Once done, tighten boiler screws.
     
    Step 11.
    Cut two small 0.25 mm plasticard ‘washers’, and place over rear chassis/body screw holes. There should already be 0.5mm of clear plastic packing glued on the lugs on the running plate casting.
     

     
    Step 12.
    Place body (still minus the cab and backhead) onto chassis, complete with the additional rear washers. If the rear running plate is not straight, ‘Squeeze’ the firebox and chassis together pushing down on the firebox top, effectively gently bending the rear running plate upwards slightly. You may want to put some 0.5mm plasticard packing between the cartazzi (towards its front) and running plate to prevent going too far the other way! Be gentle. Metal is slightly springing. Repeat with varying pressure until sloop goes. Check with ruler on flat surface that running plate is now level. Also check that the main running plate is level, excluding any irregularities it may have (either use a ruler, or callipers if you desire +/- 0/01mm accuracy!!!
     
    Step 13
    With loco on surface, the height of cab running plate should be identical to the top of the front buffer beam running plate. This SHOULD roughly match the height of the tender running plate
    Step 13a Ensure the tender body is level– there may be some moulding pin protrusions under the rear of the tender body which may push that up! – thanks to 34theletterbetweenB&D for that on the A1 thread!.
     
    Step 14
    There will now be a slight gap between the Cartazzi and the cab running plate. This should only be noticable from very low angels, and can be filled with plasticard or other appropriate material at a later date if desired.
     
    Step 15
    Replace cab, and before fitting the backhead, check that it has a little bit of fore/aft play when it sites squarely on the running plate, if it doesn’t, repeat steps 5 and 6 until this is achieved.
     
    Step 16
    Replace backhead – it should slip into cab without too much force – if noticeable resistance is encountered, repeat step 7.
     
    Step 17.
    Screw up backhead – gently tighten screws, but don’t go mad. If gap between running plate and firebox reappears, repeat Steps 8 and 8a and bend back the running plate (steps 10 and 12). If OK, loosen backhead screws, slot in fall plate and re-tighten (also put in steam pipes if you didn’t do this earlier)
     
    Step 18.
    Replace body on chassis, slot in draw bar, and do up three body screws, starting with the front one. The left hand rear screw (on the right when loco upside down).might be advised to only be finger tight. I say this since it appears the cartazzi section of the chassis casting is slightly lower on the left hand side than the right (very strange, but the ruler says so, and running plate corner got pulled down when tightened fully!). More packing might do this, but I haven’t been able to work out how much – any helpers???.
     
    Step 19.
    Check everything is level to your satisfaction.
     
    There is probably a bit of trial and error involved in the whole thing, I have repeated Step 7 a few times (there was a slight irregularity in my filing the first and second times, resulting in a slight sloop remaining)! There will be a slight gap between the V-front of the cab, and the firebox, this is due to the excess thickness at the top of the cab!.
     
    All in all, a couple of hours work (once you know what you are doing – it took me at least double that!), with a further hour tweaking (depending on how many decimal places of a millimeter you are worried about!).
     
    I also cleaned out some flash on chassis block under cylinder moulding and the motion bracket, as well as on the chassis block between the cylinder and gear train. The body was leaning slightly due to this flash.
     
    Note – pics below taken at interim phase, before work on cab and backhead, but show level running plate (I think I was experimenting with 0.5mm spacers at this point – too high!)
     
    I have never had an RTR loco where so much work has been required on a loco straight out of the box to get it to what I would imagine were the original design specifications (i.e. level and straight – I can’t imagine sloop on the CAD drawing!). Much more work than the 8750 pannier (step-by-step to come on straightening out the running plate on ALL (or nearly all?) examples (8750 only not 57XX)!
     
    Following photo taken at interim stage, with 0.5mm packing (rather than 0.25mm), and no backhead. The finished result is correctly alligned with the tender.
     

  7. G-BOAF
    An aside from my Mainline Charter Train.
    The advantages of jetlag and waking up at stupidly early hours is the ability to play without guilt! Such was the situation this morning, when having arrived back home after two months, and catching up from a 22 hour journey and 9hr time difference, I took the opportunity to explore the goodies that had accumulated during my absence (From a railway perspective, this absence was poorly timed; Not only did I miss Bluebell 50, but various long awaited model releases started to appear days after leaving!)
     
    So, here is the new lineup - Bachmann's stunning O4, Modelzone's superb 1960's Red TPO, a shockingly good shock open, and an unfitted 20t Brake (the latter obtained from the ever wonderful Hearns Hobbies on Flinders Street, Melbourne - no connection - satisfied customer).

     
    For months I have had some Bachmann B4's on my shelf waiting for the TPO (why are they twice the price of other spare bogies?), and these have now replaced the B1s on the TPO, setting the vehicle in the preservation era. When paired with 63601, the preserved GCR suddenly appears on my table top (substituting 80301 (GCR) for 80300 (SVR)!)

    From a performance perspective, the O4 is probably the best 'straight out of the box' loco I've had from Bachmann in years, and will be great after running in (improved after 10 shuttles up and down a 1m test track!)
     
    Finally, the shades of Red used by Bachmann and Oxford Diecaast are commendably similar:

     
    Happy Customer, but wondering why Hornby have not got a look in (nor do they with any of my outstanding pre-orders).
  9. G-BOAF
    Midnight Hour, and the latest addition to the charter rake has just been lined and numbered.
    Repainted BR Maroon from NSE, the coach is based on the SRPS Mk2a 5412. Since my aim is for a 'generic' rake, I have not gone to the trouble of trying to get SRPS decals. Strange to think that, or so my research suggest, this coach is the only Maroon Mk2a TSO in mainline service. Others are either Mk2s or in different liveries!
     
    Here's the prototype:
    http://oliverashmole.fotopic.net/p53073681.html
     
    and here's the newly outshopped model. It awaits:
    i)varnishing,
    ii)picking out of bogie details
    iii) touching up (and gluing in) of the window frames,
    iv) adding the OHL flashes
    v) painting stepboards black with white edging
    vi) picking out ETH sockets in orange.
    Body sides hand painted with thinned Railmatch 306 ontop of primer (with old paint sanded down with fine grade sandpaper). Ends are humbrol satin black. Roof is untouched Bachmann finish
    Painting the window frames was NOT FUN - very time consuming.
     

    General view - the flash has shown me where touch ups needed
     

    End of the coach. OHL flashes to be added after varnishing (reflecting the 'sticker' nature of the real items). I've left the end doors their natural fibreglass colour, rather than painting them off white as per the real 5412 - I couldn't crack the glazing out, didn't fancy masking small glass (even with liquid masking), and actually quite like the green - very 1960s!
     

    5412 and 99348. I don't quite understand the discrepancy in colour, given the two coaches were painted from the same jar of paint - its either variation in the amount of thinner I added, or the current absence of varnish on the Mk2
     

     
    More pics once she's finished, hopefully in natural light.
     
    Next project will be a further Mk1 Pullman (99352). The overall rake will, in prototype terms, be a mix of SRPS and WCRC stock. With the Mk2, the rake is 11 vehicles (mainly near off shelf Mk1s) plus the NRM support coach!
  10. G-BOAF

    Mainline Charter set

    By G-BOAF,

    Well, the 21st Century Mainline charter set had its first outing earlier this week behind Tornado
    As posted in the 'Tornado' (Bachmann) thread, here's a video of the entire 13-coach rake:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTBEKXQChTA
     
    Rolling stock highlights included:
    the SRPS Mk2a TSO
     

     
    the WCRC Maroon Mk1 Pullman 99348

     
    Hornby Pullman Ibis as preserved by VSOE. Spare Hornby Gresley bogies were obtained from East Kent Models (the 'heavy' type with two rivet rows above the axle boxes, used on Gresley catering and sleeping vehicles). These were not simple clip in replacements, and had had to have a 'cap' glued on top of the bolster to hold them in. Wiper pickups and wheels were salvaged from the original bogies. and holes drilled in the bolsters for the wires, before the pickups were glued with Epoxy. The bogies are shorter than pullman ones, so as installed the bogie would not engage (and therefore push) the vertical lug on the coupling cam arm. The solution was to install a second 'lug' on the coupling arm behind the original one. I used redundant parts from non-NEM arms replaced on original pullmans. Alternatively a piece of rodding or sprue a similar diameter would work. Foot boards fitted on bogie ends as per prototype. I knew before I started that the window arrangement is one too many for the real Ibis, but wanted the coach for its history... compromise... (having got everything else near rivet perfect!)


     
    All stock has had cantrail lining on the ends (Modelmaster) (transfers wouldn't work for the roof edges, and attempting to mask such a fine edge was too difficult), OHL flashes (Modelmaster) and TOPS data panels (Fox Transfers) as per EWS charter stock. As shown on the BSK:
     

     
     
    the BSK had its periscopes blanked off using parts salvaged from a cheap BSK purchased for my BFK project. These will eventually be painted to match the rest of the roof. The 'chalk boards' on the van doors were carefully painted over with Railmatch Maroon.
     
    Any 4mm/oo modern image layouts wanting the loan of a mainline charter with prototypical coaches for an exhibition, please PM Me!!! (not sure my painting is quite up to exhibition standard, but detailed photos available on request). This is a serious offer, but dependent on other commitments.
     
    Mk1 BFK support coach and additional WCRC Maroon Pullman (replacing Ibis) in the pipeline.
     
    All Mk1s have had commonwealth bogies fitted. Future additions might feature some B4s but they are twice the price!
  11. G-BOAF

    "Layout" developments

    By G-BOAF,

    Heritage Railway Centre developments.
     
    First things first, having obtained a couple of Bargain Mk1s over the last few months, I thought it was time I did something with them, namely putting them in a 'stored awaiting restoration' state .
    The 'Last' Regional Railways Mk1 BSK 35452 was sheeted over (rather wasting my reasonable efforts to replicate the patch painting and OHL flashes the real thing had at the time of retirement, but saving the need to weather it!)
     

     
    an Intercity BG, with titles white-spirited off, has had its roof sheeted over, and presents a much more interesting and effective scene.
    Tip: Cambridge University Press bookshop carrier bags are a perfect tarpaulin colour, but sadly a little too thick and therefore don't quite droop and hug the detail as intended, but for a first attempt I'm quite pleased with the outcome. The cotton thread is tied to the plastic, then prototypically tied to the u/f trussing and/or brake hangers etc. knots and bows in cotton thread is NOT FUN!. A washing of thinned rail grime will help improve the bogies and u/f. and a few rust streeks off the door hinges. Excuse the sleeper propped up on the bogie, there is a slight gradient and Bachmann did not include a functioning hand brake on their BGs!!! Railtour coach letter on Mk1 Pullman behind is off a TDK VHS tape label set from c.1990!
     

     
     
    Also, the shed yard was 'concreted' with suitably painted plasticard. I adopted this method as, at the time of planning the yard (several years ago), I wanted to reuse the track on the next layout. Having nearly completed the job (i.e. stuck everything down with double-sided), I have now decided that the next layout will use Code-75 track, so I could have smothered the yard with polyfilla after all! Few gaps left to fill, and need to concrete out the 'disposal pit' (under the pullmans), but ran out of plasticard! Still to do: pits need to be painted, a nice pile of coal added for the Volvo backhoe to play with, and the whole area grimed up a bit.
    80079 and 92240 (when I get round to renumbering it), sit on shed, with 63601 lurking inside.

  12. G-BOAF
    I don't particularly like hacking around with brand new models. However with a source of rejected Bachmann EWS VDA bodies, there was an opportunity, without irreversibly damaging a new model, to create an REA Tube barrier vehicle used for stock transfers for refurbishment or scrap moves (or in my case a railway centre transfer with a preserved silver 4-car '59 stock (not shown)!). During the 1990s EWS liveried REAs were used on on Northern Line Scrap runs so the use of EWS livery vans is prototypical. I also remember seeing a pair of REAs at the Midland Railway Centre while they were doing some contract work on the LU Asset Inspection Train in 2009; I cannot find any pictures online of them at the MRC however. While the internet has various open wagons used for 1960s/1970s movements of EFE 1938 stock, I have yet to see VDAs modified on model form.
     
    My (justification) for livery
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/nicholasy/5439563468/sizes/l
    and some more examples here
    https://ukrailwaypics.smugmug.com/UKRailRollingstock/R-Tops-codes/REA-Tube-stock-coupler/
     
    And the details of the translator vans:
    http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/paulbartlettsrailwaywagonphotographs/h3820b288#h3820b288
     
    The aim was to modify the VDA van to operate with an EFE tube train, AND, after shunting, and with minimal/no removal of vehicles from track, allow the two REAs to be coupled together for movement as a solo pair of translator vehicles.
     
    Effectively two sets of coupling translations would occur. NEM tension lock on the outer ends (my standard loco-stock coupling), 'Roco style' R8220 couplings on the inner ends of the REA, connecting to some sort of bar/loop arrangement to hook onto the EFE tube stock... The two REAs could then couple together using the 'Roco' style couplers.
     
    An evening of real, mind clearing, modelling and much trial and error began...
     
    The following blog post charts the conversion of the first REA, much finishing still to do, and the second to be converted at a future time.
     

    Starting point, two EWS VDA (printed VBA in error) bodyshells, and two chassis (I cheated in this picture, its taken at the end of the evening, with one van still in box, one converted, and one unconverted spare body!).
     

    The metal buffers were pulled out, and the shanks gradually cut off
     

    Finally carefully finished flush with the buffer beam. Note the hole from the buffer, prototypically still present, and I have pressed buffer shank bolt holes into the plastic. Donor VDA van in background.
    Some sort of representation of the welded(?) bracket for the tube stock coupling will need to be fitted once running clearances are established
     

     
    A R8220 coupling was used as the basis of the conversion, one being trimmed in length and height to partly fit in the slot vacated by the moulded EFE Wedgelock coupler. The other had a slight reduction at its far end to fit under the 'centre buffer' of the D end tube stock car. A piece of plasticard forms the final element of the coupling, with a hole to fit the hook on the EFE bogie, and another hole for screwing to the much trimmed R8220 Hornby coupler (small crosshead screw that used to secure 'fixed' couplings on replacement Bachmann Mk1 bogies - great source of free small screws!). This bar will need to be strengthened for serious use probably with slightly thicker plasticard. Much trial and error was needed to get the length right. the one pictured was too short...!
     

    The REA starting to look the part
     

    Coupled to an EFE tube car
     

    Details of the coupling arrangement. I am not happy with the gap. There will be some compromise due to my desire to have the two REAs couple together as well, but using a Roco rather than Hornby 'Roco style' coupling will reduce the gap a little. I need to purchase some of the former... (pack of 5 or pack of 50???!)
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