sagaguy
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Posts posted by sagaguy
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6 hours ago, railroadbill said:
I've also been in there a long time ago while working in central London. Bought various bits and pieces in W & H (including wheels and fittings for a couple of Jameson locos I built I think). I very very vaguely remember they had some O gauge coaches on display as well.
W & H were I believe Walkers & Holtzapffel and had a really good W & H catalogue as well. I could also reach Kings Cross models in my lunchtime as well!
They were at first in Paddington St,i used to get the tube from Manor house in N.London to Baker st in the early 1960s.I bought my first Ks loco kit there,a GWR 63xx.Never did get it to run properly.
Ray
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If it`s the very fine wire you want to strip,heat it in the flame of a disposable lighter and and remove the insulation with your finger nails.
Works for me!.
Ray.
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6 hours ago, Wolseley said:
Hi Ray.
Just one question if I may. When using these, is it best to print them on ordinary paper and glue them on (as with the old style litho papers), or print them on adhesive paper and stick them on (as with the sort of overlays that the late Laurence Hogg sold)? I suspect that the latter might be the better way to go, given that they are to be stuck onto metal, but I'm not sure. Also, as I will have to use an inkjet printer, any excess liquid glue might cause a run in the finish.
Jim
I used 150gsm gloss photo paper,I blackened the cut white edges with a chisel black marker pen,preformed the tumblehome between my fingers and stuck them on using 6mm double sided tape.Hope this helps.
Ray.
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2 hours ago, Wolseley said:
No, I was talking about the real thing. I must confess that the WD Austerities fall a bit outside my area of knowledge, and I had assumed they were bogie tenders. I stand corrected.....
No mistaking a WD tender,my O gauge tender from my WD 2-8-0 build
Ray
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You can see the D series overlays here.
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7 hours ago, Wolseley said:
Thanks for that. I might give that a go after I have a few other projects out of the way. All my SD coaches are mint or near mint condition, but I do have four very scruffy and rusty D12 coaches I bought to dismantle for their bogies that I could use. I would have to shrink the image a bit horizontally for them to fit, but it should still look OK. It could take a while before I get around to it though.
These are for the D series coaches,I thought i produced a set for the brake ends but you can alter the length of the sd brakes.
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8 hours ago, Wolseley said:
I had three Hornby Dublo green Co-Co diesels, so I decided to turn the one with the least impressive paint job into something different, so here we have "Meld" in BR blue. All I need now are some blue and grey coaches for it to pull........
Try these for starters,to fit SD coaches
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You really need insulation board as a base board for Peco spiked track to work which was the original intention of Peco.I built several pointkits in the early 60s and afraid to say that they wern`t a success,keeping the gauge was the most difficult thing.
Ray.
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Quality control was not great at Wrenn unlike Meccano.Screw holes not fully tapped,they didn`t always use quite the right gauge wire for armatures etc,The Mazak material used could be be difficult to drill and tap,by the way,all threads were BA.
Ray.
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Disposable cigarette lighter,hold the cable in the flame fo a couple of seconds and strip the insulation with finger and thumb nail,it doesn`t get hot!.
Ray.
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Very powerful locomotives,this one is operating from the catenary under seperate control from the rest of the track layouts.
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If they have the original p/up configuration for 2 rail,just turn one round.Don`t take the motor out,you won`t be able to mesh the gear properly.
Ray
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They are normally 1.2mm selftapping screws in various lengths,i get mine through ebay.
Ray.
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They were the old Eveready 126 batteries.Modern equivilents are available but at a price.
https://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_a6570.htm
Ray.
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33 minutes ago, roythebus1 said:
Maybe I should have invested in one of those years ago. I understand they're good for doing lattice-work like OHLE and signal gantries. But do they work with low-melt solder or just solder paste?
I don't think you can use them for low melt solder but they are ideal with normal solder for seams,just follow the iron with the solder but solder paste,ie. Carrs,is the cats whiskers for small items.
Ray.
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On 09/10/2023 at 12:36, roythebus1 said:
a comment on the tram engine soldering, it seems you're not using enough flux and too much solder, also not enough heat. Try with the iron at say 425 degrees, that way you get the base metal nice and hot and a little solder will go a long way. Run the tip of the iron along the joint, don't dwell too long with it.
Even with whitemetal, I fund using a specific Carrs low-melt flux is excellent. Iron at about 200 degrees for larger parts and a 150 degrees solder, just don't dwell too long in case you melt the whitemetal. I use the lower 150 setting for small parts and have to be carful not to melt them. For fitting whitemetal to brass etc, tin the brass with normal solder first, then use low-melt flux and low melt solder to join the whitemetal to the base metal.
Remember in and out quickly as the actress said to the bishop. :)
I suppose it comes down to how many brass kits you will eventually building .I'm building 0 gauge loco kits and the question of soldering came up.Because of the large areas of brass,I had to upgrade my soldering station to 100w but the biggest boon to me is that I recently purchased a resistance soldering unit and makes life pretty easy as it just heats the area where you are soldering. It's made the assembly of coupling rods a doddle.
Ray
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I havn`t posted much for a while but an update on the WD 2-8-0 build.The tender to all intents is now finished apart from painting.
From small beginnings, making a start on the wd 2-8-0 loco.first pair of coupling rods,one more to make and the first pair of horns and axle boxes.The rsu has been very useful now that I'm getting to grips with it.
Ray
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I get mine from ebay,macmodels,gwr supplies to name but a few.
Ray.
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Yes,0 gauge is a whole new ball game,i`ve been collecting and operating Hornby Dublo 3 rail for more years than i care to remember.With advancing age,i can no longer duck under the base board so the layout is now being slowly dismantled.Have you thought about building your own locos,coaches and wagons,RTR is a bit limited still,mainly to tank locos it seems.A few years ago,i bought a DJH Fairburn tank kit,i built the chassis and there it stopped but last year,i thought it was about time i finished it and the photo is the result.I`m also building a Roxey mouldings WD Austerity 2-8-0,the nearly completed tender is also below.It brings with it,a whole set of skills such as soldering etc.It`s very satisfying to roll your own,you would be surprised at what you could achieve.
Ray
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This one i made a couple of years ago,Dapol body,Dublo Barnstaple chassis with modified valve gear.
Ray
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I think Dapol plastic is recycled plastic, I started a Kitmaster Bulleid Pacific after the Dapol model and Kitmaster plastic is definitely harder!.
Ray.
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I use Cif or similar on cast metal bodies and plastic but the citric acid in that reactes with solder so i degrease with a non bio washing powder and a toothbrush.
The finish on that loco was Halfords satin black,Fox transfers finished with Railmatch gloss enamel varnish.
Ray
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Fox lining is best cut into shorter lengths and line up using a small brush and water.One the hardest and time consuming was this tender for my Dulo conversion to Sir William Stanier Ivatt duchess.The red lining had to be fitted first and when dry,the cream lining hed to applied inside the red.
Just a warning,don`t use washing up liquid to clean your models prior to painting.It contains lanolin which stops the paint from adhering to the body properly.
Ray.
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Now being a builder of brass 0 gauge kits,i`ve moved to using Fry Powerflux rather than Carrs fluxes which i find are a bit corrosive coupled with a London Road RSU for a lot of the soldered joints these days.
Ray.
Model shop Memories
in Model Shop Guide
Posted
When they first opened that shop,they had the full width,there were two counters at an angle to each other.They became wholesalers of model railway products and the floor space in the shop slowly diminished.Cheap Japanese electric motors sealed the fate of Romford motor products.
Ray.