Campaman

You need a DCC automatic reversing unit which will change the polarity as it detects the difference. 

Look out for a jenga set in charity shops, nice square edged pieces of wood, ideal for this sort of purpose used with blue tac to hold them still.

Freeze and then use a standard cheese grater also works OK.

Do you have to connect each set of tracks separately, can you just have a power bus linking all the track on the lift out section meaning you only need 1 set of connectors?

I have multiple buildings produce by adding DAS to 2mm Card using PVA and stonework scribed, they are stored in the shed and are now over 5 years old and show no problems.

Gildings are right next to the railway station so its a shame they did away with Red Star Parcels :-)

There is usually a good turn out for these toy and model auctions, I went to the last one, but the prices were way more than I wanted to pay allowing for the buyers premium at 24% on top or the hammer price..

Its just a 10 minute walk from where I live...

The matt needs a real good shake and stir as the matting agent settles at the bottom. I have tried other matt varnishes and find the Galeria to be one of the best.

For clear varnishes I use artists acrylic type namely Windsor and Newton Galeria from the Range, far cheaper than any modelling type, I spray it through a 0.2mm or 0.3mm nozzle thinned slightly with water, available in bottles up to 500ml in Gloss, Matt and Satin, sticks to plain plastic fine and over paint finishes. I only bother with the Gloss and Matt and mix my own Satin from the gloss and matt.

Klear is OK for washes as its a gloss finish, but you need matt for powders to stick which is what some weathering paints are, just powders in a solvent/fluid carrier.

WD40 is very good for removing sticky residue left from labels, then just wash the WD40 off with washing up liquid.

You can get matt medium from the Range (Galleria brand in 500ml bottles) its good for a lot of things diluted or straight out of the bottle.

There used to be a version of this freebie on the site a few years ago, this one seems to be a slightly updated version, its a nice useful freebie.

If you do a google image search for Swing Bridge at Foxton you will find one that pivots from one bank only and fold against that bank.

There are two though, one a footpath and the other a road bridge found on Swing Bridge Street, its the road bridge you want.

Its local to me.

I use both Model Colour and Model Air, and although the Model Air is thinner I still thin it both for brush painting and spraying.

I also use Vallejo for just about everything, wet pallet for figures, white primer, blast of black from the head downwards for shadow then really thin washes from the wet pallet for the colour.

Mr Colour/Hobby paints in jars are not bad too.

I have been using run out ball points pens as well, the only problem I have found is after a while the ball wears due to lack of lubrication and either seizes or drops out.

So I got a set of the embossing tools from the range last week.

Interesting thought regarding the sign, I use thin slices of those type of signs to make ladders.

Personally I would go the scribing DAS route, its doesn't take as long as you think it might, and its also very satisfying seeing the relief of the stonework develop as you do t.

Another method that I have used and works well, which I think comes from Chris Nevard is as follows:

Spray a base coat of grey primer at the normal distance, then using red oxide, black and white cans, spray from a longer distance using short bursts so that the paint falls in droplets, build up until you have a result you like.

Looks very similar to the black pepper finish above.

Another vote for Poundland PVA, used it for years and never had problems. I did have a 2.5 litre bottle from Wilkinsons but like you found it rather gloopy and wouldn't thin down very well, ended up using it to seal some mdf.

The problem with warping could be that you need to stick a similar thickness on the other side, its like plywood it need to be in odd number layers.

I use cheap ready mixed filler from £ land with PVA and Sawdust mixed into it for texture.

Glue & Glaze is what I use, then tinted with Tamiya clear colour paint range which is designed for things like plastic kit vehicle lights etc.

You can also get them from stationery suppliers such as Rymans or Colemans.

As stated normal craft knife usage is fine, they are usually double sided so you can turn them over once one side gets tired, I cut an old A3 one in half using a Stanley Knife to use for painting on so you have to be careful with bigger blades.