66C

Some posts to this topic today seem to have disappeared.

I wonder why?

Regards.

Have you checked that an isolating gap in the trackwork has not closed up?

Regards.

If buying components from the UK from an electronics supplier (eg. Farnell, RS, Rapid, etc), then they usually come in properly labelled packages with reference to spec sheets. 

 

Three legged two colour 5mm LEDs are about 20p each, though you might have to order five or ten at a time

http://uk.farnell.com/kingbright/l-59egw/led-bi-col-5-mm-red-grn-3-pins/dp/2001770

 

 

- Nigel

Caveat emptor!

The example quoted is a common cathode led - this is not mentioned on the web page but in the downloadable specification.

Common cathode multi-colour leds are relatively cheap but remember that for DCC lighting using the white and yellow wires from the decoder a common anode type is required and these are generally less common and more expensive.

Regards.

Hi Ian

It looks as though you have been supplied with common cathode leds.

For DCC purposes you do need common anode - I used those supplied by Express Models.

The correct wiring is blue wire from the decoder to the common anode - usually the middle connection to the led.  The leds should be accompanied with a note of which connection is which - each should be a different length.

Do not be tempted to use a single resistor in the common lead - this leads (ouch!) to problems when you wire in the lights at the other end of the loco - don't ask how I know that!

I always check the operation of leds before wiring them into a circuit - I have come across single colour leds that have a shorter connection to the anode instead of the usual short connection to the cathode - so always check.

Regards.

Edit - the other posts above beat me to it!

I picked up a nice (but old) second hand OBB diesel for a few quid that had incandescent bulbs fitted that I intended to rreplace with 5mm bi-colour LEDs but I cant make them work.

 

I have connected the blue wire (Lenz Silver Mini+) to the common Anode and the white to one side and yellow to the other through a resistor but they will not work. I have tried removing the resistor but that doesn't work - I am at a loss as if I take a red/green signal and connect it the lights change correctly.

 

What am I doing wrong? 

 

Iain

Hi Ian

Are you using a separate resistor for each of the white and yellow wires?

Also - is it a common anode led?  Not all bi-colour leds are common anode.

Regards.

Hi Andy

Have a look at CPC - some of their equipment/hook-up wire is sold in 10m lengths - in some cases cheaper than the 100m reels!

For example:

http://cpc.farnell.com/w/c/cable-leads-connectors/cable/cable-wire/hook-up-wire?reel-length-metric-=10m

Regards.

Hi Ernie

Some parts in Parkside Dundas 7mm scale kits are moulded in ABS type plastic.  I also use EMA Model Supplies Plastic Weld as it works for both ABS and injection-moulded polystyrene.

Regards.

Hi

Have you looked at the information on the NCE website?

Specifically:

https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/201480075-Step-2-Option-A-Power-Cab-SB5-Smartbooster

If your depot is physically part of the layout, there is no need to use the Powercab as the command station - the SB5 does that for you.

If your depot is completely separate from the rest of the layout then you simply use the Powercab as supplied.

Regards.

I've not previously needed a turntable, but the layout I have in the planning/preparation stage will benefit from having one.

 

Unfortunately, all the r-t-r ones seem to be too big to fit the space I have available.

 

ISTR Heljan once made a smaller one, 70' in HO which comes out a bit over 60' in 4mm, and would fit (just) but can't find any current reference to it.

 

Can anyone enlighten me as to availability, and ideally point me in the direction of one.

 

Thanks in advance 

 

John

Hi John

Have a look at:

http://www.kitwoodhillmodels.com/on30-turntables/

Don't let the narrow gauge examples put you off - look at the second page - in particular:

http://www.kitwoodhillmodels.com/ho-65ft-turntable/

Also some of the narrow gauge turntables are available for different track gauges so you may find something to suit.

Regards.

Hi Paul

It would help if you told us which DCC control system you are using.

Some systems, such as the Digitrax Zephyr, have a physical direction switch and that would determine the direction of travel.

Regards.

Hi Steve

One small point about the Conrad motors - they are not stall motors as the current is switched off by their internal switch at the end of their travel.

Regards.

Hi Michael

At the risk of stating the obvious - there is nothing to stop you only using as much of the downloaded design as you need - front or back as required.

One of the great things about John's designs is that they are very easily customised to suit.

Regards.

Hi Bob

Have a look at:

https://scalescenes.com/product/r002c-inspection-pit/

The inspection pit "kit" is a free download and there is a link to suitable rectangular leds.

To use for O gauge at 7mm scale, download the OO version and print at 175% size.  It's easy to tailor the prints to your own needs.

Another option for fluorescent type lights is:

http://www.expressmodels.co.uk/acatalog/FLUORESCENT_TYPE_LED_LAMPS.html

Regards.

Hi Brian

Have a look at:

http://www.peterclarkkits.com/lineside-accessories.html

and:

http://www.modelrailwaywagons.co.uk/Accessories%20Page.htm

Regards.

I do not understand this comment... I believe, from information given to me by Brian Lewis and Len newman, that the rail offered by Peco / Slaters / C&L comes from the one source, the same wire drawing company.

 

The Scaleseven Group has and does supply jigs and fixtures for making crossings and switches for 7mm track, I recollect that the crossing assembly jigs are available for S7 turnouts or for those of a narrower persuasion.

The rail may well come from the same source but my experience is that the Peco and C+L bullhead rail for 7mm scale are different sections.  Unfortunately the lovely Exactoscale fishplates are NOT a good fit in Peco rail.

Martin Wynne of Templot fame has re-published a method for making accurate turnout Vs without the need for filing jigs - have a look here:

http://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=3220&forum_id=6

Regards.

Hi

If all of the chairs supplied with the kit are dark brown in colour, you have been supplied with C+L chairs.  Unfortunately their range does not include the bridge chairs illustrated in the template.

C+L also supply Exactoscale chairs which are moulded in a lighter colour of plastic.  This range does include bridge chairs.

The intention is that the builder trims the standard running chairs to fit the rail spacing - even though this does not give a good representation of the correct chairs.  It would have been better to supply 4 bolt chairs from their range as these would better represent bridge chairs when trimmed.  4 bolt chairs are also more suitable for checkrails when trimmed back.

I think it is unfortunate that the supplier does not provide a better selection of chairs with the turnout kit.

The thing that is missing? - A proper understanding by the supplier of what should be in the (pricey!) kit.

Regards.

It's odd in view of the criticisms levied here that 90% of 7,481 Tripadvisor visitors gave the museum four (25%) or five (65%) stars, that 2,671 Google reviewers gave it an average of 4½ stars, and that 1,491 Facebook reviewers gave it an average of 4.6 (out of 5).  People here may be picking holes in it, but the general public obviously like it.

 

DT

I wonder how many of the Trip Advisor visitors ever visited the previous museum at the side of the Kelvin Hall or, for that matter, the original, very atmospheric transport museum in the old tramway depot at Coplawhill?

Those who remember what came before are, I am certain, greatly saddened by the caricature of a transport museum that is called the Riverside Museum.  The design was created by a world renowned architect who is also well known for the fire station in Germany that is not regarded as fit for purpose.  Not much publicity was given to the resignations of trustees when they discovered how the new museum was being implemented and they voted with their feet!

Bear in mind that there are no criteria for the number of stars awarded on review sites such as Trip Advisor.

Regards.

Hi Mike

Eileen's Emporium supplies a good range of different sizes.

Regards.

Hi Vanders

Have a look at Powsides:

http://www.powsides.co.uk/www.powsides.co.uk/info.php?p=2

I think though that the anchor mount type is a 14t wagon.

They do a 20t tank wagon that you could convert to an anchor mount type.

Regards.

As per title? It's for text so cutting out white backed wouldn't work... Not sure what to do!

Fox do general purpose lettering (waterslide transfers) in a variety of colours - have a look at:

https://fox-transfers.co.uk/general-alphabets-linings

Railtec also have a more limited range - have a look at:

http://www.railtec-models.com/catalog.php?type=5&gauge=4mm&region=1&xfer_type=misc

Regards.

Have a look at:

http://www.kitwoodhillmodels.com/on30-turntables/?sort=featured&page=2

Regards.

Hi Dave

What kind of wire are you looking for?

Shops that cater for ship and aeroplane modellers usually stock piano wire in yard or metre lengths of various diameters.

Regards.

Hi Darryl

I have had a similar experience.  These cans seem to have no shelf life after first use.

I am currently using semi-gloss Rust-oleum (from B&Q) for a project - it sprays on very nicely and is OK with Halfords aerosol paints, enamels, waterslide transfers and Presfix transfers.

I have also used Plasti-kote Krystal clear (I think from Homebase) in the past with similarly good results and good shelf life.

Always a good idea to check on a test piece before using on that model you have spent a very long time building.

Regards.

Hi I have reread what Bill has posted and my question now is do I have to wire up the blue and red wired from, the controller to the frog switch as well as the green wire.  - It's not clear form the manual whether those diagrams apply to DCC AND DC or just DC.  Does that switch need power to it - and in that case surely I can just connect red and blue to my bus rather than needlessly apply solder to my points (soldering is not my strong suit!).  I am only using these point because I need surface e mounting, For the rest of my layout I am sing Cobalt DigitalP motors. They are super easy to setup and don't see to need these extra wires.

The advice I gave is based on the layout being wired for DCC with only one power district.  If you wish to run the layout on DC then the wiring as described would mean running on a "one engine in steam" basis.  Conventional wiring for DC with track sectioning would change the connections to the crossing to take account of the two parallel lines being different sections.

Regards.

Hi

B&Q do 12mm by 6mm pine strip - fine for indoors.  Buy the 2400mm lengths and cut to 72mm pieces to represent half-length standard gauge sleepers.

Regards.