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brian777999

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Everything posted by brian777999

  1. I ran it continuously for 6 hours per day in both directions for 5 days and that seems to have solved the problem. I incorporated an oval of track in my small layout for that pupose.
  2. It now runs smoothly once it gets going but getting it going is the hard part ; it needs a burst of electricity to overcome that initial starting resistance. I sometimes have this problem with new locos too. I am not sure what else can be done but suggestions are welcome.
  3. Yes, there was a lot of oil inside the motor. No cracked gears so, assuming it is the brushes, then nothing can be done. I might try putting some white grease on the gears and see if that helps at all.
  4. I have an old split chassis Bachmann class 04 diesel shunter which used to be a very smooth runner but started to run erratically and then stopped all together. I stripped it down and found that there was a lot of oil/lubricant all over the internal mechanisms including the motor. After cleaning off all the oil, I have got it running again but it is very rough and occasionally a puff of smoke appears from the motor. Does this mean the motor is burnt out ?
  5. Perhaps somebody could manufacture a small black box ''ozone generator" to be placed under our layouts ? I think it would more satisfying than DCC sound.
  6. How long will the Peco factory stay closed ? Have they given any indication ?
  7. I quite agree. The mortar gaps on this model are probably accurate but on some other brick sheets they are oversized and much deeper than they should be.
  8. I don't think that would work for the same reason : the mortar gaps are too shallow to dry brush the bricks. If anybody has done this successfully on the Dapol engine shed then I would love to see some photos.
  9. I tried the light grey mortar wash last night with very a thin turps based paint but it did not turn out well. As I suspected, the mortar ''cracks'' between the bricks are not really deep enough on this model. It was a bit of a curate's egg but more parts were bad than good so I have re-sprayed the whole thing and I will have to paint the window frames and doors again. Not happy ! Perhaps others have had better luck with a water based paint for the mortar? I think that this effect would work well when the spaces between the bricks are a bit oversized. It would be good in O gauge.
  10. Update : basic painting is complete. Next steps are a coat of clear, mortar wash then weathering. I will install lighting at some point after the mortar wash is done. I am still thinking about how many LED's and where they should go. Suggestions are welcome. Note : for anybody building this kit, it would be much easier to paint doors and window frames before gluing into position.
  11. Have you tried Loctite ? That is what I would be using after thoroughly cleaning off all grease and oil.
  12. Why are there doors on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th levels of this factory kit ? https://www.hattons.co.uk/34885/metcalfe_po282_brick_built_warehouse_card_kit/stockdetail.aspx
  13. I have painted the brickwork and I am now letting it dry thoroughly before giving it a coat of clear Microgloss Matt. I will then attempt to give it a very thin wash of light grey enamel paint which will hopefully stay between the bricks simulating the mortar. Not having done this before, I am not very confident that it will work with this kit. On some kits the bricks are very pronounced and the the joins between the bricks are very deep but on this kit the joins are very shallow so I am not sure if the end result will be very effective. Try it and see, I suppose !
  14. I had skipped from page 1 to page 5 only to find that we were now talking about bowel movements !
  15. I am just curious : In the UK, do you have to submit detailed construction plans all approved by a civil engineer before you can start work ? We had to do that in Cairns, Australia before building a cabin in the back yard.
  16. So there are no hobby shops at all selling model trains in India ?
  17. Do you think the sides and ends of the engine shed come out of the moulds bent/warped or does this happen during storage and transportation ? If it is the latter, then perhaps being packed in cardboard boxes would be better than plastic bags.
  18. Evergreen make a 3.2mm square tubing (4.5mm diagonal). The wires should fit inside that easily so I think I might buy some and give it a try. It is not until you try to light a building do you think about where the wires will go !
  19. The fans are easily dispensed with but the louvred roof will be staying as it would be too much trouble to get rid of it now. Anyway, I have seen similar things on all manner of older industrial buildings. I was initially thinking of having the rail line run through the shed. The platform would become a loading bay for trucks. Perhaps I should go back to that idea ? Update : this is an old engine shed that has been converted to a goods shed after steam was phased out .
  20. Here is my result so far : two engine sheds will be joined together to make one longer goods shed. I removed some of the back walls from each kit and these will be glued together soon. Now vehicles can pass straight through and I have added internal loading platforms. I used the special roof/end pieces as extra bracing in the roofs. I think I will have to add some more beams in the ceiling because I want to put four LED's in there and I will need something to hang them off. It will be a bit tricky hiding all the wires. (Any suggestions are welcome.) I am waiting for some fine weather to start airbrushing and painting ; still a lot more work to go yet. The platform and ramp is also by Dapol.
  21. Update : putting the plastic sides in the sun (sandwiched between the glass and an aluminium plate) seems to have worked. The sun was out today so I was able to make a good attempt at flattening out the warping. The end result is not perfect but still better than using hot water. I will also follows PatB's recommendations and use internal bracing and struts when I build it
  22. This is my attempt to flatten warped sides. I have sandwiched one side between a sheet of glass and a sheet of aluminium. Now if the sun will come out for a few hours I will find out if this works. It has been raining here all week. NOTE : I have tried soaking it in hot water then reshaping it but that does not help much.
  23. So that's why second hand wagons are getting so expensive now !
  24. I want to join the two engine sheds end to end to make one long shed/factory. Will I have to move the roofs slightly to allow the two ends to butt up flush with each other ? NOTE : the sides are badly warped and they are a real to get straight again ! Even placing them in hot water for 15 minutes then clamping overnight between two flat surfaces does not help much.
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