Pete Goss

On 20/11/2021 at 20:05, PaulRhB said:

I think we ought to add a photo of the layouts creator too,   I think the mask was essential with the amount of people wanting a chat. Thanks for allowing photos Pete it was sublime. 

 

 

Thanks Paul for your wonderful pictures and comments. I think that was yourself that said 'hello - following rmweb etc' towards the end, many thanks.    

1 hour ago, PaulRhB said:

It’s looking stunning Pete   the Portsmouth show just went in the diary. 

Great. I'll see you there. 

8 minutes ago, JustinDean said:

I can’t believe I’ve only just seen this thread. Wonderful modelling Pete, and features my go to pub in Burton, The Coopers. Any plans to show this in the Midlands?

 

Jay

Coopers Tavern is included as a subject of a forthcoming Modelling Buildings book (Wild Swan) about to be published.  Either by Christmas or early new year, again I am reliably informed.

Justin, I am about to start approaching exhibition managers so anything could be possible.  At present we are off to Portsmouth in two weeks time, and I have several e mail / verbal invites for next year but nothing is confirmed at all yet.  Steve Flint is here this Sunday taking pictures for an article next Easter in Railway Modeller hopefully; and I am reliably informed the layout is featured in Episode 9 of Hornby A Model World on Yesterday. (6th Dec I believe).

I was originally going to use proprietory pick ups screwed to the wooden block you see under the wagon, but (can't remember why) I swopped to 0.5mm brass wire soldered to a copper clad strip and resting on the wheel. Wires are soldered to the inside of two of the four loco pick up wiper blades. Friend Jeff Taylor did this bit when he was setting the DCC settings for each locomotive. I found after using an aggressive brass brush wheel clean that one or two wires dropped off, so I re-soldered and stopped aggressively cleaning wheels. I now use a lint free soft cloth and electric cleaning fluid only and have experienced no further issues.  The wires touching the wagon wheels need careful adjustment as either; the wheels don't go round or the wire doesn't actually touch the wheel.  Weighting the wagon helps, but if its too heavy the loco slips!

The standard Hornby coupling was removed, its hook removed and the hoop space filled in with plastic card and three holes drilled before re-fitting. This enables the two wires to be held in the central area between loco and wagon. The bent brass coupling wire runs from the filled in  coupling hoop hole to a short length of plastic tube twist wired onto the wagon buffer beam centrally. The brass wire is bent in place and articulates between the two vehicles thus taking any stress away from the electric wires.  This enables the loco to run as easily forwards as backwards. 

i support Phil and Andy's  earlier comments about calming the comments. Very apt and timely.

Anyway, I too was involved in all this. The filming took place under difficult and strict covid regulations earlier this year for us.  So here are some more clues.  I had an e mail from Rare TV this evening (just now in fact) explaining a slight change in episode order from that originally planned.  Essentially the Merchant Navy and P2 episodes were swopped around at the last minute. Whether that affected the order of any other episodes I wouldn't know.

Collections | Pete Goss Railway Modelling (bigcartel.com)

I have just put on our website 50+ individual painted / matt varnished 7mm railway figures that I had on stock, now available for sale.  They are from the 'Heroes of the Footplate' range.  Examples below.

17 minutes ago, Ben B said:

Those greyscale shots are terrific, they really show off the artistry of the layout!

Rich (my eldest) took them this afternoon during a running session.  They are excellent and very worthy of sharing.

Oh thanks very much for the very kind comments!  Certainly a big grin there.

There is still a few bits to do but definitely getting there now.  I am marking up a plan up stuck on the wall with any missing bits, gates, fences, walls as I am going round sticking buildings down; and I would like to do some dusk / dawn photos when all the lighting is connected up!

Cheers!

13 hours ago, PaulRhB said:

Beautiful, I’m looking forward to some shots to see the wider picture when you’re ready for the reveal  

Good idea Paul

I will get some overall workshop pictures later today and a picture of each board to show what exactly is happening.  Boards are in separate parts on the workbench at moment as they are being worked on top and bottom. After wires all connected up underneath for building lighting, I will put them together again and take more pictures.  

On ‎07‎/‎11‎/‎2019 at 10:44, brylonscamel said:

 

Hi Pete ...

I missed this comment on first read - but has neatly answered all the questions I had about your brick course / headers technique.

Thanks so much for taking the time to photograph your step-by-step guide.

I had it in mind that your headers were 3rd-printed or laser cut etc but this 'analogue' method is perfect.

I've taken to scratch-building fairly recently and find your solutions increasingly appealing (lining-pen windows, hand cut arches etc.)

Your techniques make it easier to adapt to the various sizes, styles and proportions that a building dictates.

Mind you - your method still demands a great degree of design, cutting and measuring skill!

 

Yes, an interesting comment on the skill or mind set required to measure and cut things out. I would say that, as with all these things, taking time out to set up the physical making process to start with will help considerably and pay dividends in time. Such as perhaps using a small drawing board as I do, or maybe a nice piece of plain wood with 2 steel rulers screwed down at right angles with one of them raised a little for card to pass under for measuring and marking, you will be in a much stronger position to draw and mark out en-masse, rather than just one thing at a time. A much more economical use of time I have found. This is why I always try and construct, build and finish several buildings at the same time, so all walls can be made at the same time, painted, all windows etc.  It maybe takes longer overall but all are finished at the same time.