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Hi, I am updating a Bachmann OO gauge Class 85 from pre TOPs version to 1980’s. Not sure of best way to update headcode panels with marker lights from the letters/numbers style - does anyone make such panels for this (or indeed for other diesels/electrics) or easier to just make new ones from plastic ? Grateful for advice… thanks…

Not yet - going to order the correct parts and have a go. Thanks for the tips. Will post when progress!

Thank you, all for your kind replies. I thought I had given plenty of info but realise that more would have been helpful, and I also don’t know all the right terms ! I actually have two shunters in need of conrod fixes, a Bachmann 08 and a Heljan 07. Thanks, @Bucoops for going to trouble with a picture - it is actually more like the larger pin between the yellow rectangles you added. I think I will try @cypherman’s suggestion first and see how that goes. I can see that Bachmann and Heljan both do spares, but as the pins are so small I wanted - in the spirit of RMWeb! - to see if there was a homemade solution first. Thanks again.

Hi, grateful for advice… I have some connecting rods for the wheels of a 0-6-0 diesel shunter (oo gauge) that I need to fix in place. I can see from pictures that these con rods were originally attached to the small holes in the wheels by tiny pins. Is there a simple way to fix this / recreate the pins eg with fine wire, cut to length and tapped in? Thanks….

Hi, I have a Hornby class 50 with loksound v4 decoder. It has an 8 ohm speaker in it, slightly too large to fit - can I just do a straight swap for a 4 ohm (3 watts) DC kits speaker from the spares box? Will the change from 8 to 4 ohms make any difference or affect the decoder ? Grateful for advice...

Hello, any recommendations for best way of fitting fans to the underside of diesel roof grilles ? I have removed the fan mechanisms from Hornby 56’s, Bachmann 47’s etc to fit speakers and wish to refit just the red fans without clogging up the fine mesh with glue. Mounting on a sliver of plasticard might be the answer ? Grateful, as always, for your advice...

Hi, glad you like them. I used Phoenix Precision Paints (enamel). I think the brick was a mix of P952 and P953 light and dark brick, and the roof was P954 engineers blue slate. Perhaps a tiny bit of orange mixed in with the brick colours. Good luck!

As promised - a few more shots of the Townstreet items that I've built, painted and weathered. You can hopefully see how the mixed enamel originally appears quite pink in colour (under construction), but once weathered and toned down it looks more realistic, with some individual bricks picked out in greys, oranges... Good luck !

Yes - here’s one I did that combined two of the depot kits. I followed Jim’s painting instructions (enamels), and was very happy with the results. Will post some others later.

Perhaps they are intended to upgrade the track for the Hornby R3738 gold-plated Flying Scotsman to run on ?!

I’ve used plasticard cut into strips then glued to build up the base, then primed and painted and weathered. Worked well for various diesel depot floors which are still going strong years later apart from when I used the wrong kind of glue for one of them, and it warped horribly. I think PVA worked ok.

I will check all these possibilities, but I think Nigel you may be right, thank you. I do have a few 5 mixed in amongst the 3.5 and 4, and it may well be these. Is there a way of telling 4s and 5s apart from the CVs - they all seem to have the same cv 7 and 8 variables ?

Thanks... Yes 2 and 5 change ok. Not sure whether the 3 CV table activated - how is that done ?

Hi - grateful for advice. Just resetting some CVs, and on just a couple of locos (decoders are ESU v4) the CV 6 value is set at zero, and resists any attempts to change it (using Lenz controller on programming track, get ERR02 message if adding any value other than 0). Any idea why this is the case ? Thanks...

Fantastic scenes ! A job very well done. So much nice detail and play value.