Pete M

Sorry, but I put z21 (small z) in every post, I thought that would be clear enough. Sorry. 

Hi again and thanks for all your helpful comments. It appears the fault lies within the z21 unit and it has been sent off for the necessaries. Although obviously still a little peeved, I do feel slightly vindicated as it wasn’t me being a plonker (as a lot of you thought - and so did I at times), but something fundamentally not right. Hopefully when it returns it will work as it should and I shall fade from your life...

DThe £300 I quoted was for the fully fitted sound, etc loco - not the z21. A’s usual everything is plagued by jargon. The instructions with the loco were a load of incomprehensible numbers on a bit of A5 paper; absolutely no help, nor was my conversation this morning with him when I was informed it was my fault for not buying a Bachmann unit from him. Last of my pennies he gets. 

I’ve tried programming, and the loco sits there clicking. Go back to the controller bit, dial in that number - and nothing. Just what am I doing wrong? 

18 hours ago, NickC said:

You are absolutely sure the loco does have a DCC decoder fitted in it?

18 hours ago, Phil S said:

No Roco Controller will allow an analogue loco to run - as this is not a recommended practice, and is a policy followed by many,but not all, controller manufacturers.  An 'unfitted' (analogue) loco will BUZZ and get warm on a dcc track.

 

Did the invoice for the loco include a decoder or state that it had one pre-fitted ???  'DCC Ready' does NOT MEAN it has a decoder fitted ... it is a confusing phrase meaning that the loco has a SOCKET for a decoder built-in - but you have to open up the loco and fit the appropriate type of decoder  (There are many different fittings available depending on how many features may be available   eg 6 or  8   21,   22    18 ......

6 pin decoders are used in many small 00/H0 locos and N gauge -  2 pins for track connection, 2 for motor, and 2 for Fwd/Rev lights.

8 pin (2 x 4 in shape) is the most common  and as well as 2 track and 2 motor  has a +ve pin and upto 3 functions

Current ratings and other features vary between decoders - as does cost.

DCC FITTED or DCC SOUND identifies a loco which HAS a decoder fitted at the factory.

 

17 hours ago, melmerby said:

Hi Pete.

We need more information.

 

As has been mentioned: Does it have a decoder?

If so: What loco? What decoder? What address are you using?

Which output on the Z21 are you using, Programming or Main track?

 

16 hours ago, jpendle said:

Also is it a z21(White) or a Z21(Black). The capital Z is important. The Z21 has two track outputs, main and program. The z21 has just one track output which can be switched between a program track and the main track.

 

Regards,

 

John P

9 hours ago, WIMorrison said:

Pete

 

As has been suggested elsewhere you need to start by understanding DCC and I think that the advice offered by @Phil S may be the root of the issue, though your woes in connecting the z21 Start, z21 or Z21 suggest that you have some issues there as well.

 

The Z21 system is one of the most comprehensive and simplest system around therefore a good choice and DCC can be as simple of complex as you wish, but you really do ned to understand what it and DCC are and how DCC works first - DC it isn't though neither is it complication.

 

This may help you https://dccwiki.com/

 

 

The £300 I quoted was for the fully fitted sound, etc loco - not the z21. A’s usual everything is plagued by jargon. The instructions with the loco were a load of incomprehensible numbers on a bit of A5 paper; absolutely no help, nor was my conversation this morning with him when I was informed it was my fault for not buying a Bachmann unit from him. Last of my pennies he gets. 

I’ve tried programming, and the loco sits there clicking. Go back to the controller bit, dial in that number - and nothing. Just what am I doing wrong? 

15 hours ago, NickC said:

You are absolutely sure the loco does have a DCC decoder fitted in it?

14 hours ago, Phil S said:

No Roco Controller will allow an analogue loco to run - as this is not a recommended practice, and is a policy followed by many,but not all, controller manufacturers.  An 'unfitted' (analogue) loco will BUZZ and get warm on a dcc track.

 

Did the invoice for the loco include a decoder or state that it had one pre-fitted ???  'DCC Ready' does NOT MEAN it has a decoder fitted ... it is a confusing phrase meaning that the loco has a SOCKET for a decoder built-in - but you have to open up the loco and fit the appropriate type of decoder  (There are many different fittings available depending on how many features may be available   eg 6 or  8   21,   22    18 ......

6 pin decoders are used in many small 00/H0 locos and N gauge -  2 pins for track connection, 2 for motor, and 2 for Fwd/Rev lights.

8 pin (2 x 4 in shape) is the most common  and as well as 2 track and 2 motor  has a +ve pin and upto 3 functions

Current ratings and other features vary between decoders - as does cost.

DCC FITTED or DCC SOUND identifies a loco which HAS a decoder fitted at the factory.

 

14 hours ago, melmerby said:

Hi Pete.

We need more information.

 

As has been mentioned: Does it have a decoder?

If so: What loco? What decoder? What address are you using?

Which output on the Z21 are you using, Programming or Main track?

 

13 hours ago, jpendle said:

Also is it a z21(White) or a Z21(Black). The capital Z is important. The Z21 has two track outputs, main and program. The z21 has just one track output which can be switched between a program track and the main track.

 

Regards,

 

John P

6 hours ago, WIMorrison said:

Pete

 

As has been suggested elsewhere you need to start by understanding DCC and I think that the advice offered by @Phil S may be the root of the issue, though your woes in connecting the z21 Start, z21 or Z21 suggest that you have some issues there as well.

 

The Z21 system is one of the most comprehensive and simplest system around therefore a good choice and DCC can be as simple of complex as you wish, but you really do ned to understand what it and DCC are and how DCC works first - DC it isn't though neither is it complication.

 

This may help you https://dccwiki.com/

 

 

Thanks for all your quick replies; brand new z21, brand new from £300+ Hornby J15 from Olivias Trains; I only have a test track; I tested the loco on an old DC controller and it works fine. I’m a bit frustrated as all every tutorial shows you is the loco being plonked on a track dialled into the app and everything working like magic, sounds and all - nothing about addresses or all the programming or that you need to do to get everything to work in the first place. This definitely ain’t ‘plug and play’!

After nearly 60 years of DC, I decided it was time to move to DCC with a z21 operated via iPad. After a day getting the WiFi to talk to me I have come to a complete standstill trying to get a loco to do anything other the click and get warm. It’s a brand new item from Olivias trains that works fine on DC. YouTube tutorials gloss over everything and have proved more confusing than help. Getting a bit frustrated as I can usually muddle or struggle through most problems but this really has come to a dead end. Any ideas?

A generic North Cornwall Station Building and Goods Shed. My first building constructions for this layout that is rising like a Phoenix from the ashes of 'Cardigan Town'. Made from Wills sheet plastic, 'True Texture' windows, oddments from the 'gash box' and a few bits of skin here and there.