Captain_Mumbles

That looks really good!

I love adding the Warhammer , or should we say 'grimdark' skills to model railways. In moderation of course.

Happy new year all!

Slightly off topic but I think my chances are better in this company:

Might be a long shot. Does anybody have a nice picture of cab details? I am building a larger scale one for a diorama and I am procrastinating over painting and detailing the inside before I can close it up and move on to the exterior paintwork.

Cheers!

Ben

Just that Hermit is a GNR Pacific means Baked beans and 2min noodles are mack on the menu.

Oh how i love a GNR pacific.

14 hours ago, hayfield said:

 

 the bases can be printed without the plug holes (solid)

 

 

 

Was that a case of clicking on the 'socket normals' and changing the plug width?

Ahhhhhh

Another month of 2min noodles and bakes beans out of can is in my future again.

15 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi Captain.

You are going to have an absolutely incredible layout when it is finished.

Thanks!

It is a shame that life gets in the way of it too much.

Importantly, I have it at the stage where I can at least run some trains and chill out on a chair to end a hard day's work with a beverage to the sound of the swooshing and clanky clank of trains.

19 hours ago, cypherman said:

High Captain,

You could get it to work with longer platforms. But you would need to simplify the trackwork. Get rid of the kickback siding and all the associated double slips and crossovers. That would allow you to lengthen the outer platform following the track. Where the lower 2 lines run now the complicated pointwork has gone after the double slip/crossover it looks like you are using a lefthand point. Swing that piece of track out and use a righthand to swing it back into line a little further out. Or just get rid of it all together and use a single line into the platform. I would put a run round between the top 2 lines as well. Complicated trackwork is sometimes not practical.

I decided to see if I could come up with a similar platform area track plan that would allow you to do what you wanted that would fit into your space. Looking at the grid spaces and assuming that they are in feet, You have about 11.5ft in length to play with. Which is about 3.5m. The plan I have drawn up in Anyrail which basically does the same with longer platforms. Please note that the crossovers are really single or double slips depending on how you want them to operate( I could not find the slips icons to use them). The length of this plan is 3 metres long(9ft 10ins). Well with in your 3.5 metres(11.5ft) length. I hope that this may be of some inspiration to you.

Then I tried to make it a bit more compact and more like a 4 road terminus. So came up with a slightly altered track plan.

 

 

 

8 hours ago, Sasquatch said:

No doubt you've thought about rotating the plan 180 degrees ? The whole plan would flow better too!

 

Just a thought.

Regards Shaun.

Thanks for your input. That is not so far from how it is going. As I am laying my own point work it is taking me some time.

So we don't have to hijack Manna's thread,

You can have a look at how it is all going here:

19 hours ago, manna said:

G'Day Folks 

 

Time for an update, been pottering with the house but taking a bit of time out to build Loco's. The J3 is back at the top of the list, I didn't like the 'Green' runningplate, not right, so I started again, but using the cab and boiler, couple of days saw the footplate and splashers replaced, so it now looks more like a J3 than it did before. Attention was then turned to the tender, I had already made the tender chassis, so I was only the body to build, couple of days and I have a reasonable Stirling tender. But all modelling has stopped for a while as I've packed everything away, as I'm heading back to SA for a couple of months. But everything is coming with me. See you in December.

 

manna

You've got a lot of cool models there.

Hopefully you get to continue your building!!!

AS mentioned earlier, KX IS remarkably compact!

I nearly got it to fit into my loft as a through station with some terminus out the back. Even though my layout is already designed and track work is going down, I sometimes go back into templot when bored and try to get KX in just in case my brain works better and I get it to fit....

Unfortunately I have an inconvenient corner that always stops me. Those terminus platforms would only be good for 3 coaches and loco.

You also seem good at finishing things. I started an A1/1 but built mine to look like the initial version with the B1 ish looking cab. I have stalled on the motion, which motion did you use on yours?

I'd love to build an A2/1 but I know myself too well...

The plastic ones work well with the Peco Bullhead. Sometimes the wheels hit the inside claws but its easy enough to file em down a little if they do.

Looks great painted.

3 hours ago, micklner said:

I still have Book Law, I can take some photos of her current condition if needed?

A picture of your book law might help.

I have looked at how these models are assembled, and I am a little confused by it to be honest. It is almost like they might have got the cad wrong. Even if I were to separate the forward part of the engine, I dont think I can do anything about it without cutting it horizontal and adding a shim. It is almost as if there isn't enough height between the fwd boiler and the running plate.

My early A1 Scotsman had a little ski jump and a careful massage helped a lot.

On 22/10/2023 at 00:19, micklner said:

Basically I had to break the front and wedge to the correct position, repair etc.

 

I did do some photos here all lost in the RM Web meltdown. The photos are long gone as i have a new laptop since.

 

 

It is a pitty about the RMweb meltdown. 

Nice work over there though!

Just now, cypherman said:

Hi Mumbles,

You cannot get talc or baby powder in the UK any more. Atleast not officially. There is a very good reason why it has been taken off the market.

https://www.insurancetimes.co.uk/news/johnson-and-johnson-to-end-all-uk-baby-powder-sales-as-ovarian-cancer-claims-escalate/1442043.article#:~:text=Motor-,Johnson and Johnson to end all UK Baby,as ovarian cancer claims escalate&text=Insurers could be bracing for,sales of the product globally.

Whaaaaaaat!

I guess this means we probably will not be getting it anymore here either.

On 18/10/2023 at 20:09, Dominion said:

Knight of the Thistle is also very nice and still at a very reduced price at The Model Centre.  126 pounds I think less vat for you. 
 

Versus Harvester it has earlier features, lower cab cut outs and short travel valve covers, and no super heater covers as it is an A1, but overall it looks very similar. From a model spec. point of view it does not have a flickering firebox.(Oops. Sorry was mistaken it does. Thank you Legend). However it still enjoys the improved boiler moulding with no visible top seem, and the simpler earlier tender connection which I prefer as it is easier to modify to close the gap. 
It also runs extremely nicely. 
 

Sorry to suggest beans and noodles for a while longer. 
Tom

A while back, I was able to secure a 2nd hand Knight of the Thistle and must report no noodles were needed back then.

But just like the new P2, once I got it home it was duly confiscated by the minister of finance and planning for being too pretty and lives in the display stand and is a faff to get out.

Slightly off topic.

Has anybody attempted to fix any of the previous generation A1/3 with the 'ski jump' front ends?

I got a hold of a copy of the 2018ish (i think) Woolwinder and would like to have a go at fixing it.

Cheers,

Ben

Well here it is with some paint on it finally.

12 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi all,

I have started repairing damaged areas using the gel superglue and baking soda method.

3 hours ago, MikeTrice said:

You can also use superglue with microballoons filler powder. When rubbed down you get a surface just like the styrene.

Yes! I forgot about that. I use the superglue and talc (baby powder and whatever else it can be called)  method at work, quite a bit. Superglue and microballoons when I am not lazy.

4 hours ago, Chas Levin said:

Very interesting: what's the baking powder doing though, and what's the advantage of this over conventional fillers like Milliput?

If you put in enough white stuff, you are guaranteed to have a filler substance that is easier to sand than the plastic, easy to work with and fast drying. A lot of products out there can be quite hit and miss in terms of their hardness in comparison to the material you are working with.

3 hours ago, chris p bacon said:

I saw this technique about 25 years ago at an aeromodellers event, the superglue and baking powder make up a fast setting filler paste, I've used it a few times...if I can remember where I've put the baking powder...🤔

Talc/Baby powder is very good too.

On 19/10/2023 at 07:34, manna said:

G'Day Folks

 

Yes, doing a bit every so often, still plugging on with the house, good chance next year I can start the new layout. 

 

manna

 I have been at my place for a few years now and I still feel like I am moving in!

17 hours ago, Chas Levin said:

 

 

Nicely saved - I can't see any repaired damage, very nice job!

Thanks!

I can't believe what I get away with sometimes.

On 17/10/2023 at 09:20, manna said:

G'Day Folks

 

That's looking rather good.

 

manna

G'day Manna.
Thanks. One day I'll be as good as you mate! I hope you're still building these days.

For now,

After a small set back where I melted one of the sides with a heat gun here it is fixed up as best I can and in undercoat.

Harvester Looks amazing to me. I'd love to have one.

The new P2 has reduced me to eating 2min noodles and baked beans from a can for a while! So Harvester will have to wait.

Just going a little off topic. The 'Dublo' range  appears to have a couple of versions of the early A1 Scotsman. Is it just me, or do none of them feature the early tall cab?

14 hours ago, MikeTrice said:

Me or the coach? Sorry, could not resist.

Yeah, the coach wasn't too bad either.

Gorgeous.

G'day all.

While looking at too many pictures of early A1s on the web I discovered that my coal rail tender was too high.

I compared mine to the factory ones and found that I had copied Hornby's discrepancy. I also found that there might  be more than one design of the lowered cab. The cabs on early A1s and their tenders should draw a more or less straight imaginary line across the top edge of the cab side to the top line of the upper coal rail.

I compared the my tender side sheets to my Isinglass drawing of an early A1 and mine were 2-3mm too high. So I cut roughly 2.5mm from the bottom of my tender and the general overall balance of my model improved.

To add more confusion, on the lowered cabs of the later A1/A3, sometimes the top corner of the cab makes a straight line across the lower coal rail. But not always. This leads me to believe there are multiple low cab designs OR, the tenders might differ in height.

Hornby's models always have the top corner of the cab lining up with the lower coal rail at least on all the models I have, even the early representation of the A1. So I think they may have the tender too high or the cab windows too low on this early version they made. But in my opinion that is still a gorgeous model.

In any case, my one is not that accurate either. It is going to be my interpretation of what a 'Railroad' early A1 might look like, however it is becoming more detailed and intense than first intended.

Cheers!

Ben