Nile

As it happens I've also done that: and just restored the images.

It may be too late for that, lead times can be rather long. I'm happy with a short delay, there are enough bills already at the end of the year.

I have a PP 'catalogue' I can scan. It's only an A5 sheet.

I'm doing something similar, modelling the BR blue era using only models available at that time. A lot cheaper than using current models, and more fun. Although my definition of the era can be a bit flexible.

Does this help?

You need Revell 8 , 6 is Tar black which is ok for tyres or weathered black.

It's all from the HMRS sheet 3, press-fix. Curves can be manipulated slightly if they don't quite match the model.

A few more bits added and it's finished. Crew in the cab, coal in the bunker, plates on the bunker, axle ends covered and a small amount of weathering.

Peco announced those wagons a year ago, they are now on their way to shops. They should provide some welcome variety for anyone wanting to run goods trains. At £17 they are competitively priced, but of course we can't make RTR models in this country, can we?

The later.

Seems like my modelling is getting dangerously close to reality, must stop that! Back to the chassis which is now complete. There is now a piece of yellow foam# under the motor, with a matching piece in the top of the boiler, to stop it moving. The wooden block at the front is a mounting point for a non-scale working coupling. The loco can now have scale(ish) couplings like these fitted (mostly Romford parts I think), or these. There's a NEM socket somewhere at the back. I like choice. # from Dapol N gauge packaging.

Body fitted to the chassis for a test run, can you see anything different about it? I based this model on a photo of this loco in Midland Locomotives vol.3, taken before 1907. It's the only one I've found with a rear weatherboard, which I wanted to fit. In this photo it isn't fitted with front foot-steps, so I hadn't fitted them. Problem is I'd fitted the handrail on the front of the side tank, which I later discovered wasn't fitted until the front steps were added. Hmmm, what to do? 1.Remove the errant handrail - didn't fancy that, could get messy and look worse. 2.Ignore it, it's hardly noticeable if left painted crimson. This was my favored option until I noticed.... 3.Turn the page. On page 89 there's a photo of 1973 (pre-1907) in the same livery as my model. It doesn't have a weatherboard, but it does have front steps. So 1680 could in theory have gained front steps by the time it was renumbered. That's good enough for me. More bits to paint now.

Back to the MR 1377 tank loco. With the body almost completed I turned to finishing the chassis. Wheels and motor refitted, coupling rods added - all working fine. Brake rodding next, and here I hit a snag. The cross-shaft at the rear needs to be lower than the position allowed for in the kit design, with a much shorter link. Time for some bodging. I soldered the too-long links to the inside of the chassis to provide new supports for the cross-shaft. Brake rodding fitted. This has all been soldered solid. Cross shaft is 0.8mm brass rod. The operating links were made up from various left-overs from other kits, cut and filed to shape. Fitted in place with linkage to the brake handle. It will be barely visible when painted black. The nearly complete chassis the right way up. Sand box fillers have been added, made from some plastic rod. No expense spared here!

Hello all, good to see you are still enjoying the builds. Currently I'm working to finish the MR tank at the top of this page. Meanwhile here's something a bit different I built recently. It's an old (and cheap) Parkside Dundas kit of a SR BY van, built using just the kit parts plus modern couplings. The only change I've made is to file the buffer bases square to make them look a bit more like they should. It's modelled in its final years after it ceased to be a guards van. I found some old MOPOK transfers with 'close enough' markings, particularly when weathered. I also have an interest in the BR blue period, but as it's mainly old RTR it won't feature here much.

Dusty stuff, that ballast. Years of working with it will take its toll.

Hello Mikkel, my problem is my interests tend to wander all over the place and I end up with fingers in far too many pies. These recent coach models fit in with my pre-grouping around 1920 theme, centering on the LMWR and what might have appeared at its Uxbridge station. But some of the recent Midland locos are in pre-war condition, adding another distinct theme. Perhaps I should split things up into separate topics, although I'd probably loose track of them. As I've yet to build a permanent layout for any of these models things tend to remain in a state of flux, mainly in my head.

Painting and lettering nearly finished. This former passenger brake van, dating from the 1860s, has been relegated to the engineers department as a ballast brake. Inside as well.

Yes, ribs on outside, as in this drawing: The roof is made from two layers of material, the inner one is slightly smaller overall and has a big hole in its middle.

Some progress with the Prickley Pear brake van kit, primed and ready for painting. The underside of the roof, showing the ribs meant to be on the top. Underside view showing the interesting brake gear. The inner 4 shoes work like those on a wagon, with outside links to the outer 4 shoes.

I seem to have lost track of things somewhere, which kit are we talking about now?

With the final bits added and painted I fixed the roof on with canopy glue. This is a non-permanent PVA like glue in case I want to get access to the inside. Just as well as I wasn't happy with how it looked, it wasn't quite straight and wasn't sitting flat. So I removed it and found that the partitions I'd added were slightly too tall. Having fixed that I tried again with the roof, with more success. With a bit of weathering it's now finished.

Found some stuff: SECR brake van SECR coaches and by contrast some of my own designs in the fine detail resin, which cost about double the price of WSF All require 'some work' to get a finished model. None of this has anything to do with the original question, which was about supports needed in the printing process. Since this will vary with the printing process it's rather hard to generalise. Each printer or process will need it's own method, and a degree of experience from the end user.

They were in the sintered nylon material, formally known as white strong and flexible (WSF), which has a rough surface. If I get time I'll look for were I posted them, if the photos are still there.