modelmaker87

Tim,  

T-Cut sucks.  Period.  I use a softer gentler approach to replicate the shine of a just cleaned engine, I use clear shoe polish.  With an 'ear bud'  I can replicate the polishing circles that were always clearly seen on the side of all the larger flat surfaces.  At certain reflective light angles they show up perfectly just as they did on the prototype.  From a modelling viewpoint you never have to worry about paint damage.  The polish will wear off as it did on the prototype and subsequently I re-polish.  No different than when a locomotive wenty on shed after its day on duty.   

Cheers, Tony

Guys,

My publisher, OST publications advised that the book is now available.     http://www.ostpubs.com/diesel-locomotive-modeling-techniques-sw1500/ 

Cheers, Tony

Hi guys,  Responding in the date order of your posts...so.

Tove:  Book two covers the GE 9-40CW, subtly different to the 9-44CW.  I had submitted far more than just the 9-40CW to the publisher.  ES40DC modifications to the IM model, and my unfinished C39-8 which included a scratch chassis.  This info will probably be included in one of the next three books they plan to publish from my manuscrit and images.

GP38 HH, it's on my list, but I mainly build 6 axle power over 4 axle.

w124Bob: The publisher is going to offer it both in paper and e-book.

298:  The scratch building part, publishers use of the term not mine, involves rebuilding the radiator core, more like adding to what was existing.  Adding a radiator fan.  Your brake cylinders look good.  I see you designed them with the brake 'on'.  Always a conundrum that one, they are correct only a part of the time, depends on the orientation of the cylinder rod either set in or out.  Never 100% correct, is it...?

Prof K:  The book will be sold by the publisher, OST Publications, they commissioned me to write for them.  You can get these etched switch throws along with any other detail parts you fancy from me.  my e-mail is sissons.tony@gmail.com   Use that over PM as I don;t visit RMWeb as often as I once did during the Charlotte Road and Widnes Vine Yard days, both expo layouts now sold and gone.  Postage for these etches is not expensive as these parts can be mailed out in an envelope.  http://tonysissons.zenfolio.com   The parts available keep growing as I need something that is not available by the Details Assoc and other after market parts boys.  Or what is available is no longer up to snuff.  

Prof, these are not functioning throws, cosmetic only.  The usual works are under the B/Board.  

Gene:  I was asked to write a book about my modeling style some three years ago now, it's not every modellers cup of tea.  I submitted over 85,000 words and around 900 plus images, of which 40% were prototype images.  The text covered not only the SW1500 build but also the GE dash 9's, an EMD SD70M-2 build (the flared radiator design), a  C39-8 along with locomotive sections such as, 15,000 words plus images on plows and pilots.  Another 30K words section on roofs and the modifications I have done to the variety of them ou there, and sections on the main shell, trucks, fuel tank and the plethora of pipework that goes under the sill.  A full chapter on modelling tools I make, or modify, to suit certain tasks.  Originally no model was finished, it was all about the construction techniques that I have successfully adopted.  The publisher decided to break up these sections and extract specifics covering one locomotive design at a time.  This entailed additional work to sew all the separate parts that were in separate sections and placethem in a coherent fashion for one locomotive design, then finish it, painting, weathering and all.  Hence the first book, decided by my publisher is the SW1500.  

Long answer to your question... lol, the short answer is, yes, I was writing this book last year.

As an aside, I'm one of the handful of true protomodelers here in the US.  Rivet counting is as it always is, but when nasty offensive words and slogans are written in the dust on the side of the fuel tank, and they often are, I model it and display it.  It's fun that someone else's opinion still offends when the model is on display at an RPM meet.    

Cheers, Tony

My publisher has posted this on their company blog.  

http://www.ostpubs.com/diesel-locomotive-modeling-techniques-vol-one/

Book two...?  I'm on it.

Cheers, Tony

And a less well known image site here.   Might be useful.    http://tonysissons.zenfolio.com/

Like Martyn, I'm only doing a few generic improvements at the moment - this is today's work: Added lift rings, (which way should they be aligned in reality?)

Jon, although this is not a GP35 its still an EMD. When out shopped all the eyebolts were aligned in a longitude orientation. These images of the roof of a GP50 should make it clear. There are a lot of older EMD machines out there now with the eyebolts tightened up past the military style alignment. Threads get worn, replacement eyebolts and all of that.

Setting one or two eyebolts at a slight angle does add a little interest. Something that I do, makes the model look used. 2nd pic lower left eyebolt.

Cheers, Tony

Anyone up for starting a thread on detailing and weathering locomotives?

 

I must admit that I go to the sites selling "details" and my eyes quickly glaze over because of assumptions made at the sites. For example I've got a SD60M that needs new metal handrails - I go to the site and it is not listed - presumably because it is assumed that another locomotive has exactly the same handrails and you use those - and you know this! The site owners famously never answer questions like this if you ask by email.

 

Best, Pete.

Yeah, I know exactly how that is Pete. Same for me many years ago back in the early 80's. Try this site.

http://www.trainreadyproducts.com/HAND-RAILS-AND-STANCHIONS-FOR-SD60M-KIT-210.htm?categoryId=27

A-Line offer handrail and stanchions. I'd go for item #104 or #108. Without the good old touchy feely it might cost you a few packs to find out what is.

http://www.ppw-aline.com/detlloco.htm

You could go for the Smokey Valley, SD60M handrail kit, #676-210. I like Smokey Valley and have used their stuff on many models. Mmmmm, maybe a tad oversize, its subjective. There's hundreds of locos out there with them fitted.

You never know, this info may help you toward your goal.

Cheers, Tony

Anyone up for starting a thread on detailing and weathering locomotives?

 

I must admit that I go to the sites selling "details" and my eyes quickly glaze over because of assumptions made at the sites. For example I've got a SD60M that needs new metal handrails - I go to the site and it is not listed - presumably because it is assumed that another locomotive has exactly the same handrails and you use those - and you know this! The site owners famously never answer questions like this if you ask by email.

 

What about the Atlas Trainman Plus Genset - who has detailed that? It's all very well saying look at photos of the prototype and copy them but a lot of details I just don't know what it is I'm looking at! For BNSF someone said to me "oh, yeah the models alright but you need the A/C unit added on" - what does it look like? Often it bears no relation to what I consider an A/C box looking like.

 

I use this as an example because I know quite a few of us own at least one.

 

Best, Pete.

Pete, I'm sure you can ask Andy Y to move this into this US/Canadian area of the forum now. The WFRM club room is moribund these days and has been for months.

http://www.rmweb.co....clinic-ns-5424/

I can also do a new one on this bad boy if'n ya like. Just finished it yesterday ready for this weekends Savannah, GA. RPM meet.

Ref A/C units. UP and BNSF generally favor this style of A/C unit.

There are some UP and BNSF engines that also use this style of A/C unit which is identical to the NS type.

The NS style.

I do a custom etch for the NS type, superior than anything you can purchase from D/W and even the original plastic units that come with the models. Plus other custom etches for the prototype modeler some of which are generic that can be used on GE 6 axle power on other roads. This image was taken a while back and was my first test unit, there has been some small refinements, adjustments of several thousandths of an inch, that sort of thing. There is no soldering required, more because soldering is almost alien to the US modeler, almost, there are some around, like me.

Cheers, Tony

Quick update time...

 

 

Quick one also for Tone - I think this improves the look a little?

 

Took a bit of work to get it right without showing where the join was - all gone nicely. I'll see what the big light in the sky does on Monday (as per the Brit)........

 

Cheers,

Wow, don't it just improve it, good job there Tim, made world of difference.

I'll be at Ally Pally with Vine Yard. See you there.

Cheers, Tone

Hey Tim,

Just stumbled upon your thread here. HTFRU...? Been awhile since we last said hi. Thought you had got away from the toy trains.

Looking at your images I like what I see. But you know me and all these 'atta boys' and 'back slaps you're getting I guess its left to me to slap you around a bit. I mean, someones gottta say it. You know I'm a bit of a stickler for the rivets and rust patches and I noticed those thick smoke deflectors on that Duchess of yours, couldn't you have taken a file and carefully filed a very light chamfer off the front edges of the smoke deflectors to help my eyes and reduce the pain they caused. You certainly have the weathering skills to make them look a tad thinner - right.

Hope to see meet up with you again sometime, meanwhile, take care.

Tone

Tony, looks like a pretty sure thing at least for Saturday...Friday a firm maybe. Depends on if I can get away from the office here.

Craig, that's great. Tell your office to go and **** themselves. I really hope you make it. I'll look forward to seeing you.

Later, Tony

There is one difference between the model and the prototype - the distinctive Chessie mail slot battery box doors. Look at late Chessie and CSX ex-Chessie locomotives...nearly all of them have the mail slot and the 4229 indeed had them. Heck, the D&RGW SD50s were tagged on to a Chessie order and they have the mail slots. Cannon makes that part but I think it would be easier to modify the existing shell to make the slot rather than trying to remove the door from the shell.

Whoaaa there Craig, Jon asked if there was any difference between a GP30 and a GP30M, NOT the difference between the prototype and the model. Sure a Chessie GP30 would have the slits in the battery box covers. Thus a Chessie GP30 modified to a GP30M would still have those slits. Thus there would be no external differences between a GP30 and a GP30M.

Now the model, that's a whole different question which was never asked.

Craig, whilst on here chatting to you. You said last year that you would attend the Greensboro Prototype Modelers Meet this year. Its 24/25 September, hope to see you there, should be a good one. F.Y.I. http://www.rpmcarolinasgreensboro.org

Jon, aplologies for nicking your thread for that last note to Craig.

Cheers, Tony

I am busy modelling a CSX GP30M (pre-slug) and I'm just wondering what the difference is between a GP30 and a GP30M

 

Thanks for any info

 

Jon

Jon, the 'M' stands for Modified. I doubt very much that you can detect any external differences. If you go further and turn your GP30 into a Road Slug, then there are a good number of external differences. I have a whole bunch of detail photos of CSX Road Slugs if you wanted to go that far.

Cheers, Tony