Clagmeister

She is narrow in her outlook and suspicious of what she does not understand. She uses her power to surround herself with sycophants and shuts out criticism or reproach. I would say this sums things up perfectly

I am a figment of collective imagination, nothing more nothing less.

All stopped at the moment whilst new track is purchased for the 10 loops at the back of the layout. Taking my time with this bit as its crucial to simple operation.

Nice and dry.

Heater just on and off low, but its very well insulated. Yes Col you certainly did mention it. I'm hoping the changes are minimal really and there will be enough flex in the structure to cope. We shall see. Anyway a nice collection of motive power waiting to work trains North this evening on track that now stays clean. Yayyyy Thank you everyone for the inputs on here, its been most informative and good fun. For similar nonsense see my Blackford-Gleneagles thread in layouts.

Really going in the right direction now

Like the signature Proof..... If rising damp were a thing it would be right up the wall. неуклюжий

Wonder why it doesn't tarnish?? That is higher than any readings I have had and is really wet. How is your ventilation?

Yes chemical damp treatment and fixed barriers are different. Anyway big progress, home after work today Thanks for all the responses and ideas, sometimes you just can't see the answer even though its right in front of your face. The track is showing signs of fewer black spots now too.

Brilliant stuff Russ. Really has a sense of space. The track diagrams look railway rather than 'model railway'. Cracking.

They don't have them in Holland as they don't believe rising damp can occur and I'm inclined to agree. Industry standards are proof of nothing. The idea of injecting a chemical into sandstone for example in a solid wall house to fix damp is lunacy! I've seen these cowboys selling this nonsense for years and it makes no difference whatsoever. Take all the cement off, plaster with lime and let the house breathe. Absolutely do not put 200mm of insulation on the roof if you don't want to kill and old house.

We'll have to agree to differ on DPCs. Progress though....

Very good question. Its been the glue of choice for years, I don't know of another way. Be interesting to see if anyone has done some different.

Todays simple addition. Its in a slightly more Southerly location but I couldn't not have them on the layout!! The East Peterhead Symbol Stone. Further information...... https://canmore.org.uk/site/25924/peterhead-farm-gleneagles https://m.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=509

Excellent stuff. Modern buildings are built with these regs and conditions in mind. What we have done to old houses with the regulations and push to energy saving and heat retention has wrecked them. The building materials of anything pre first world war just aren't able to cope with double glazing and insulation. As mentioned above they re designed to be draughty with open fires creating the flow. The rush to double glazing and insulation then lead to the rush for damp proof courses people didn't need. It most cases it isn't damp from the outside but condensation of warm, trapped, wet air coming in contact with the coldest place the bottom of the wall. Todays readings at 0830 were 18c and 58 which is an improvement on last nights. Going in the right direction hopefully.

Later on Kingfisher worked past the newly installed copse to the South of Bridge 147 with a 4hr Aberdeen working. Followed shortly after by double chimneyed Dundee based A2 Blue Peter on a Dundee-Glasgow

The shed is brand new and no issues with that. I think the source of my humidity is self inflicted into what was a sealed unit. The scenery base is all wallpaper paste and paper, the scenic details so far are watered pva and the ballast has had quite large quantities of watered down pva on it. Ventilation and background warmth is the key, but it may take some time.

The thought is that warm stagnant air holds more moisture. Think air flow is more important. Certainly to stop a house getting wet you have to change the air each day. Quite a bit of work to be done yet i think.... Thanks. Gleneagles-Blackford is coming on despite the track issues. I do wonder whether the engines should come in at night out of those conditions until i have sorted it.....

A B1 has the very light weight Edinburgh-Perth. Viewed from where my static caravan is going to be placed

Oil filled filled electric radiator This mornings readings. Door closed overnight heater left on low ventilation in. Still on the wet side of where I want it, but well above dew point, will see if trains work!! Track looks ok, i could be making progress. Ferryhill still using a Haymarket A1 on some of their A4 diagrams. Rare cop on this mornings 3hr Glasgow-Aberdeen

Normally a LMS trait, I bet they were long nights on those jobs.

i used this A10888697483https://www.calculator.net/dew-point-calculator.html

Its more audio than visual and quite long. Stick with it, its a corking sound track. A V2 makes heavy going of the climb to MP 135 one evening with the 1845 Dundee Yard-Cadder Yard Class E freight.

So the vents are in, the oil heater is running on low. Current temp in there is 13 degrees and 57%. I have closed the door to see how it gets on before bed. There is a rather good dew point calculator on the web that says 8 degrees at 57% for the dew point. Cracking ideas for sorting it and to hear what others do to combat it. Re the track, its all Peco N code 55, so not a clue what its made of.

Thanks everyone. So much knowledge and helpful ideas out there, its really appreciated. So far I have fitted two decent sized vents. One high and one low on opposite walls. Hasn't had much of an effect so far on humidity levels. I think it might take a while. Will possibly go along the dehumidifier route to help it along.