BG John

I didn't post this when I commented on it before because it's specific the the OG Photon, but this what I understand to be the relationship between layer height, pixel size and print angle. I think I had a write up on this that explained it, and possibly had a formula, but I can't find it. Basically I think this shows that to calculate the angle, you draw vertical lines that correspond to the pixel size, and horizontal lines for the layer height, then draw a diagonal line where the lines intersect, and measure the angle. I haven't done any resin printing for some time, and being a cheapskate I reduced resin use, as well as print time, by printing wagons flat on the build plate, compensating for the elephants foot where I could, and it seemed to work fairly well!

From that frustrating period between the early days, and the later era of convertibles, where almost no information seems to be available. It's a big black hole in the Broad Gauge Society's Data Sheets, covering the period I most want to model! I built a 4mm scale chassis for a B&E 4-4-0ST over 30 year ago, but the body was beyond my abilities at the time. It still is, but 3D printers didn't exist then, so all that now stands in my way is improving my CAD skills!

You could add them in TinkerCAD (online), Blender, or (maybe surprisingly) PrusaSlicer.

If you're interested in it, the apparently otherwise helpful installation video shows the screen being put in upside down! I'm glad I discovered that before fitting mine, which I haven't done yet.

https://chitusystems.com/product/6-08-inch-mono-lcd-upgrade-kit-for-anycubic-photon/

I don't know if it's the answer, but my understanding is that the optimum angle is related to layer height and pixel size. I've got an original Photon (that I haven't used for ages), and someone produced a graph showing the angle for each layer height specifically for it. So if you have a new printer, the angles may need to be different to your old one. But this may not be the answer to your problem, as I'm still learning! I've got the Chitu upgrade kit for my Photon, and am assuming as it will effectively make it a new printer, when I get round to installing it, I'll have to start again working out the best settings.

It seems it's about 6 years since this question was last asked, so maybe things have changed for the better, but I doubt it! Has anyone managed to get Silhouette Studio running, and cutting, in Linux? The computer in my machine room almost got thrown out of the window today after Windows 10 refused to find a Raspberry Pi running Octoprint on my network. I can control every other machine from Linux, so I gave up and installed Linux Mint 21.1 on it! For some reason dual booting with Windows wasn't an option. But now I need to find a way to control my Portrait. I'll probably just use an old laptop that has Windows 7 on it, but I'm running out of space in the room! Alternatively, is there anything currently available for Linux that works well?

I must add trying this to my To-Do list, as I'm after Victorian/Edwardian figures too. Has anyone tried rigging them in Blender to make different poses? I think this should be possible. This is also something I want to try, but am still trying to get my head round starting in Blender!

I need to learn to not make light hearted, and slightly exaggerated, comments, when I'm trying to make a serious point, but then I thought this was supposed to be a fairly light hearted topic. I do it because I don't want to explain in public why slightly irritating things like that can have an effect on me. Having to catch a glimpse of it out the corner of my eye when pages are loading, for the next month, doesn't help with the things I'm trying to use railway modelling to cope with.

Too complicated.

You're probably right. I think it's what we grew up with, depending on age, and links (or lack of them) to real railways. RMweb seems to be infested with people who use some weird and incomprehensible numbers for what seem to be the diseasals that were around when I was into such things. Why can't they just refer to them with understandable names, like Warships, Westerns, Brush Type 4s etc.? I've already stirred that that one up on the WTF topic in Wheeltappers. If anyone knows a way to block one image in Firefox, without screwing up the rest of the internet, please let me know.

I only got one choice on each question, but needed to tick several boxes on each, so I gave up.

Or more likely decide never, ever, to buy BRM.

I actually found it really irritating to see a distorted image appear every time a page loaded. Not everyone sees the world in the same way, and little things that don't bother many people, do bother some. Anyway, it's not a problem any more!

57xx are post grouping, so off topic.

That must have been an interesting period in history, when the naughty bits of a horse were regarded as obscene, but those of a female human weren't!

I'd assume they were doing some sort of futuristic diseasally thing, to add a bit of variety to their modelling. Traditionally, GWR classes starting with a round 100 number are referred to as, in this case, 45xx. Although for my modelling period, referring to them as the 2161 class would be more appropriate .

A very big WTF! "BRM World Exclusive": RMweb members now need to buy a pair of stupid glasses to view the site. Bad first impression for anyone visiting the site for the first time, as the banner image suggests appallingly low standard of photos for the whole site. Can't this wait until the internet can be connected to home holographic projectors, so we can have real 3D, rather than trying to fake it on a flat screen?

As a modeller of the 19th century, who agonises over having a collection of unbuilt/unfinished kits, plus one finished loco, from the 1840s/50s, but has decided that it's more practical to set my layout from the late 1880s to 1892, the idea of modelling the "1800s", where presumably I could run anything from the whole century, is quite appealing. After all, it's ancient history, so no one will know or care!

Guilty I'm afraid. I was going to do an engineering apprenticeship*, passed all the tests etc. at various places, but didn't get offered one, until just after I'd decided I wasn't sure it was what I wanted. I stayed on at school to do A levels, and started training to be a cost accountant, so I could get involved in engineering without getting my hands dirty! Got rather sidetracked into areas other than cost accounting though. I might be getting more modelling done now if I'd done an apprenticeship, and might even be able to earn some money from some sort of modelling business, as there's now no realistic way for me to go back to accounts work. *Back in the days when apprenticeships really were apprenticeships!

If you were, your post was a bit misleading http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/87861-for-the-dedicated-gwr-modeller-broad-gauge/&do=findComment&comment=2948342

I never doubted they would be. It creates a bigger market for someone to produce a proper end!

The justification I need to just do railway modelling, and not worry about the so called important stuff that I should be doing

Why not? Building baulk road isn't as straightforward as cross sleepers, especially around pointwork. I've done some fairly major changes to Small, Broad and Totally Pointless, that I haven't quite finished as I ran out of rail. I have serious doubts that it will run reliably, as it's a bit of a bodged job, altering what was already there. I think there's a good chance the whole section may have to be cut out and rebuilt. I was thinking that if I did that, I might try cutting the baulks on my Silhouette Portrait, but now I've got some new toys, neither of which are working yet, I'd seriously consider trying to 3D print everything but the rail, or CNC milling it if the 3D prints are no good. I'd need to add metal rail, as the layout is DC, and I think that 4mm scale bridge rail would be too small to print, but I don't see any reason why printed rail might not be viable in future. I like building track the old fashioned way, but I also want to explore all the possible uses for 3D printing to see what works now, and what may work in the foreseeable future. I've wasted years of my life not doing any modelling, and for various reasons I'm struggling with it now. If I can get a machine that can run 24/7 to do some of the work for me, I might finally get somewhere!

Presumably you failed as a designer of etched brass kits then!