7013

Quick final update: All well with my LMS twins, running smoothly, no stalling. Now thinking about sound, but not a lot of room for a large speaker.

Stripped 10001 down checked everything, good clean works perfectly now, except I made the elementary mistake of not putting one of the drive shafts back properly, that is for another day. 10000 I did not strip down just cleaned everything and it works perfectly. I think the oil/ grease on the bearings had got sticky and dry. Thank fully it was not a DCC issue in the end. Thank you all for your helpful suggestions.

Thank you all for your very helpful comments, my initial thought was a wiring/decoder problem, however, in hindsight when the locos stall the lights remain on. Anyway, I think a methodical approach is needed, clean the locos thoroughly first, if that does not solve the issue, then a tinker with the electrics. Oddly, it is only the LMS twins that have this problem, other locos (including Bachmann) that are run sporadically appear ok.

Thanks, I have got all weekend to attend to both locos, the locos stop 'on power' and restart spontaneously. I will check both the electrics and cleanliness of the locos using all the recommendations above.

Thank you all for your very helpful comments, my initial thought was a wiring/decoder problem, however, in hindsight when the locos stall the lights remain on. Anyway, I think a methodical approach is needed, clean the locos thoroughly first, if that does not solve the issue, then a tinker with the electrics. Oddly, it is only the LMS twins that have this problem, other locos (including Bachmann) that are run sporadically appear ok.

I have OO gauge Bachmann 10000 and 10001 both fitted with Lenz silver 21 pin decoders. In the past the locos have run without any issues. However, now both locos have developed the same issue, that is moving for a short distance, stopping then moving again. No other locos on my layout display this problem so I am assuming it is problem that has developed with both locos. Neither loco gets much running and I am thinking, if it is not an electrical/decoder problem then they may need servicing. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you I am a patient person. I have paid for these models so I know I will get them when they arrive.

So, I have paid for my 66 ‘Evening Star’ when can I expect it to be despatched? I paid for my CL50 a year ago and am still waiting, although I do appreciate there were a few issues to sort out with that. But I expect the 66’s to arrive sooner rather than later as they are in essence a modification of the Hatton’s model.

Meanwhile back on the subject of the model, I have just had a request for payment for 66799 'Evening Star' so I presume the models will be on their way soon. It will be interesting to compare my Hatton's 66 with the Accurascale version. I know there are subtle tweaks with the AS version.

Thank you all for your very helpful suggestions and info

This may be a silly question, but here goes. I would like to know how far above the track the wires on OHL should be. The reason I ask is that I would like to put an OHL system (Peco) on my layout. However, I have an extensive tunnel, the height of which I have increased recently to potentially run Electric locos without having to lower the loco pick up arms when the loco goes through the tunnel. I would like to know the height of the wire nearest the track that comes into contact with the loco arm should be. I told you it was a silly question, but a rough guide to height would be helpful in making my decision.

At least there is plenty of choice in the railroad series which will be welcomed by those who cannot afford the premium models. No Earth shattering announcements but I like the Locomotion model

Over the last few years prices have climbed quite steeply. Hattons always tried to keep their prices reasonable. But with a cost of living crisis and finances being squeezed it is inevitable that people will have less to spend on the hobby. Sadly, Hattons may not be the last retailer going under. we can only hope that is not the case, and all those associated with Hattons will find new employment, and hopefully within the industry.

Firstly, I hope everyone had a good Christmas and got all the presents they asked Santa for. I got a new laptop specifically to use with my Lokprogrammer and Decoder Tester. After messing around with the Windows 11s in order to let it download ESU ( what a palaver) I got all hooked up and was able to use one of my locos to look at some of the capabilities of the system. I have experimented with a few basic settings but am worried about doing the wrong thing. I have looked on Youtube and seen a few 'how to' videos mainly from American enthusiasts. I am keen to learn how to use this system more completely so that I can tailor some of the decoders to what I want. I was wondering if there is a good (preferably UK based) tutorial source where I can learn the ins and outs of the system, does anyone do a course? or is there a good manual/reference book? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Happy and Peaceful New Year to all members and BRM staff

Quick question, will one of those shop bought multi meters be able to tell me what Ohms my speakers are? I have several but no clue what ohms they are?

Hi Mike Should the two speakers be wired in Parallel or Series? I have an EM1 waiting to go in but would like to add a sugarcube

Generally I am really happy with my 59, I have a Legoman sound chip with twin iPhone speakers onboard. All sounds pretty good but I would like to put a speaker in with more bass to it. Any recommendations would be appreciated. I don't particularly want to go down the route of milling the chassis or anything along those lines.

Was this GWR green and named IKB? Seem to remember there was a fire and explosion which caused severe damage Was this originally named IKB painted in GWR Green, and was severely damaged by a fire?

"After the debacles of the Heljan LMS Garratts" What debacle would that be then? I have one that runs beautifully, looks the part and is a thoroughly good model. and it pulls better than any other steam loco I have.

I have just bought a 59, and fitted it with a sound decoder ( LegomanBiffo), all went well. My only problem with the loco is, when I open the throttle it takes about 30 seconds to move away. Is there a way of tweaking the CVS to make it move off a bit quicker? Any help would be appreciated.

Email from Hornby, also on Hattons site

I see Hornby have announced a whole raft of 66s. Probably in response to Accurascales announcement. These will be the old tooling models I presume and will not be a patch on any of the other offerings, but will be ok for those on a budget.

This is getting ridiculous! 89 on order, 60 on order, 59 and 92 on my list, now a state of the art 66 to Join the fleet. Some amazing models. Then there are the 56s and 69s We are certainly being blessed with some superb models.

Since when has that bothered Hornby? They have a well documented history of putting out cheaper versions on the back of more expensive and better detailed equivalents from other manufacturers. Although, that said there is not much wrong with the Hornby 60, and it now has a 21pin DCC socket.

Looks like Scafell will be joining my Hornby Helvelyn as soon as I can get one. I tend not to worry about eras these days. If I like a loco I buy it (funds allowing). This loco looks right up there with the very high standards that are expected these days. Would love 60081 IKB, but I expect Hornby to put that one out now that Cavalex have thrown their hat into the CL 60 ring.